Sorry Joe, but you're way off base!
The RENIX 4.0 does need to be "burped," or you will get an air pocket behind the thermostat and resultant overheats (since the thermostat will not open with an air pocket behind it.)
If you've already put everything together, you can jack up the rear of the vehicle until the cylinder head is "leaning forward," then loosen the temperature sensor at the driver's side rear of the cylinder head. Add coolant at the pressure bottle until it starts to run out past the sensor, and tighten the sensor. Lower the vehicle and drive it about normally for a day or so, and check coolant (topping off as necessary.)
How full? Look down through the fill hole - you'll see a moulded post that looks like a chair. The bottom of the chair (the fully round part of the post) should be covered with coolant, with the level being somewhere along the "half-round" part (look at it, you'll see what I mean.)
If you haven't already put it back to rights, you can drill two 1/16" holes in the thermostat flage, 180* apart, and install the thermostat with one hole at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock, and drive normally. The cooling system will be "self-purging" in normal operation, so you just need to monitor your coolant level for a week or so to let it stabilise (which it should do after you top it off once or twice anyhow.) This is my solution, and what I use consistently.
Anyone who doesn't tell you that the RENIX system does not require the purgation of trapped air, simply put, hasn't had to deal with the overheat resulting from not doing so...
As far as the rear washer fluid - yes, they share a common reservoir underhood, and there are two pumps at the bottom of the thing.
