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What to look for when buying an XJ?

lost honda pro

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Gainesville, FL
Alright, so as you can all tell, this is my first post...

I've been playing with Honda's for a while now, but i want something with some more space, more versatility, and something that can drive over some stuff :D I'm also a full time student @ UF, so I need something reliable, easy on the budget, fun to play around with, and most importantly, cheap to mod...

So I'm planning on shopping for XJ's in the near future, and wanted the advice of some seasoned professionals on things to look for when buying an XJ:

1) I did a search, found this post (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=907706&highlight=buying+jeep) which had some very useful info, but wanted to ask about some other things as well...

2) from what I understand, the '00-'01's had an '0331' cylinder head that was prone to cracking, so I will avoid these models completely.

3) i've heard the D35 rear end was the weakest the XJ's offered, and the 8.25" chrysler or bigger is the way to go

4) the valve covers tend to leak toward the back of the head, and sometimes this can look like a rear main seal leak

5) the rear end seals have a tendancy of leaking

6) the AX4 tranny is the best OEM option for traffic/trail running/drivetrain shock absorbtion ( i am very competent with a manual, but gainesville traffic is horrendous)

is there any difference in maintenance cost/reliability between the newer, distributorless ignition versus the older distributor models?

is there anyway to distinguish the better rear ends from the D35?

is one T-case better than the rest?

are there ANY other typical issues i should inspect when giving an XJ the once-over?

i am a fairly competent mechanic, so engine rebuilds/tranny swaps/repairs/etc arent a big deal, but the primary consideration is a reasonably cheap, reliable vehicle that can carry some stuff, drive over some stuff, and have minimal operating costs...

thank you all in advance for your answers

Tim
 
A low mileage 99 with a 4.0/AW4/231/8.25 29 spline is about the most rock solid combo you can get with an XJ.

The older Renix 4.0's (87-90) seem to last longer than the HO's if you're looking for a cheaper rig... There are many of us running them with 300,000+ miles on the motor/tranny without any overhauling.

Many can be had for well under $2,000... They also had the AW4 tranny, 231 or 242 case, but the d35 is standard on most of these.. You may get lucky and run into an 87 with a factory Dana 44 underneath it... But they are getting more and more rare by the day.

I'd stay away from the 00-01 models just because of the 0331 head, they are prone to cracking, although there are some people out there that haven't had an issue with them at all...

The distributorless ignition can have it's good points, but is not necessary in my humble opinion.

The 242 case is superior to the 231 in the sense that it works like an AWD case when you put it in "Full time" mode. Though the 231 is slightly stronger for severe offroading, and has more options for slip yoke eliminators, (Which doesn't get to be that important unless you're running more that 4" of lift.)

Hope this helps, and happy hunting! You'll get bit by the XJ bug just like the rest of us.
 
haha thanks for the help nekocopter!

i would love the newer body style of the '97+, but im afraid that (assuming i save a little to do some initial maintenance/mods) i wont have enough to buy it outright (with the honda trade in)

is the D35 weak enough that i should avoid it completely? or will it hold up ok untill i have the funds to do a 8.25"/d44 rear end swap?

im not planning on doing much more than a 3" lift for the time being (using new coils/shocks in front and new leafs/shocks out back, no shims/spacers) so i still need the SYE/double cardon CV setup? i understand that 3" or so is when the stock pinion angle/U-joints start to experience stress...

thanks again, and ttt!
 
The d35 will hold up to a 33" tire with an open diff and mild wheeling... It's plenty strong enough for a 31" tire and a locker. Though it is just a bit weak for my taste when it comes to the kind of wheeling I do.

My DD has a 3.5" lift and a 31" tire, no SYE/CV shaft, and I don't have ANY driveline vibrations to speak of... Just have the axle shimmed 6 degrees. No transfer case drop either, but if you don't mind sacrificing an inch of ground clearance at the crossmember, you can go shimless and run it without issues...

Hope this helps!
 
nekocopter said:
The d35 will hold up to a 33" tire with an open diff and mild wheeling... It's plenty strong enough for a 31" tire and a locker. Though it is just a bit weak for my taste when it comes to the kind of wheeling I do.

My DD has a 3.5" lift and a 31" tire, no SYE/CV shaft, and I don't have ANY driveline vibrations to speak of... Just have the axle shimmed 6 degrees. No transfer case drop either, but if you don't mind sacrificing an inch of ground clearance at the crossmember, you can go shimless and run it without issues...

Hope this helps!

yea dude, this is just the kind of info i need!

thanks again, and keep 'em comin'!
 
'91-'93 are the best years for the earlier XJs. Closed cooling system, no vacuum disconnect front axle, improved power and electronics in the 4.0L engine, just a solid all-around choice. I've got a '91 with the 4.0L, AW4, 242 T-case. I'm in the process of swapping in a '87 D44 rear diff, the D35 is the only real weak link in these years.
 
since im entirely new to the jeep world, would someone mind elaborating on how this stuff works?

whats the difference between a closed cooling system and whatever-other-type-of-cooling-system-there-was?

vacuum disconnect front axle?

and what did they change going into the '94 year that made them not as good?

ive seen plenty of '94-'96s around, for reasonably cheap, and figured the newer the better... no? should i go either '97-'99 or '91-'93?

thanks for the help fubar!
 
My $.02:

The 87-90 ECU is called "Renix" (a combination of Renault/Bendix). They do not store codes, but are very, very easy to work on and diagnose as long as you know how to read a $5 multimeter. In other words, not too much computer shit to worry about with those years.


Here is some info pasted from another website:
1984-1996

Much in the same way that American automakers had downsized many of their cars in the previous decade, Jeep downsized one of its nameplates, the Cherokee, for 1984.

Prior to this year, the Cherokee moniker was attached to what amounted to a sportier version of Jeep's Wagoneer. Mostly unchanged since its debut in the early 1960s, the Wagoneer was a large, truck-based, four-door wagon with four-wheel drive.

The former Cherokee, introduced as a 1974, shared most everything with the Wagoneer, including dimensions and engine selections. The major differences between the two were that the Cherokee was initially available only as a two-door (with the same wheelbase and length as the Wagoneer) and the Cherokee cost less than the more luxurious Wagoneer. A four-door Cherokee joined the lineup in 1977.

The 1984 Cherokee shared nothing with its predecessor, save its name. A shorter wheel- base (over 7 inches less than the "old" model, at 101.4 inches) and overall length (at 165.3 inches, a decrease of 21 inches) combined with a much lighter weight of around 3,100 pounds (over 1,000 pounds less than before) went a long way toward better fuel mileage and easier maneuverability, on-road or off. Two-door and four-door body styles were offered.

Styling for the trim Cherokee was chiseled and taut, with muscular wheel well flares and a tall greenhouse that afforded good visibility for driver and passengers alike. The interior continued this theme with a likewise simple dash and control layout. Seating capacity was listed as five, though it was tight for three adults to ride in the backseat.

Trim levels were comprised of the base Cherokee, more luxurious Pioneer and the sporty Chief. The Pioneer featured carpeting, additional instrument panel gauges, full center console and a rear window wiper/washer. The Chief was the most stylin' of the trio with blackout exterior trim, hood striping and white-lettered tires.

Motive force came in the form of either four- or six-cylinder power. The 2.5-liter four banger inhaled its fuel and air through a one-barrel carburetor and made 105 horsepower. The optional, 2.8-liter, two-barrel V6 (which was actually supplied by Chevrolet) produced but 115 horses. Although these powerplants were adequate, serious thrust for the Cherokee was a still a few years away. There were three transmission choices for the V6: a standard four-speed manual, optional five-speed manual and optional three-speed automatic. The four-cylinder was limited to the four-speed manual as its gearbox.

Considered by many as the leader in the four-wheel-drive (4WD) vehicle segment, Jeep offered not one but two 4WD systems for the Cherokee. "Command-Trac" was a part-time, shift-on-the-fly unit and the "Selec-Trac" system allowed the option of full-time 4WD operation. A "Quadra-Link" front suspension design (which featured a solid axle suspended by coil springs and four links) contributed to the Cherokee's quickly acquired reputation for off-road prowess.

The new Cherokee was well received by the motoring press and the buying public alike, with nearly 78,000 Cherokees sold in its first year.

1985 brought the Laredo trim level to the Cherokee family. Standard on the Laredo were most of the features of the Pioneer with upgrades such as plusher interior materials, pinstripes, alloy wheels and chrome grille treatment.

Changes to the Cherokee in general included the addition of front headrests and passenger assist handles (for easier ingress and egress as well as something to hold on to when the driver went hog wild off-road). Two-wheel-drive versions were now offered for those who didn't need the capabilities of four-wheel drive. A few new options debuted as well, such as keyless entry and a Renault-sourced, four-cylinder, turbodiesel engine.

Two major hardware upgrades were hot topics for the Cherokee in 1986. A redesigned and more powerful four-cylinder engine was now standard. The replacement of the stone-age carburetor with fuel injection helped the 2.5-liter mill pump out a respectable 117 horsepower, an increase of 12 horses over the previous motor. Smoother operation and easier starting were other benefits of the more modern induction setup.

Geared toward serious off-road enthusiasts was a new "Off-Highway Vehicle" package that included heavy-duty suspension components, bigger (225/75/15) tires, skid plates, tow hooks, a 4:10 rear axle ratio (to help in climbing up steep grades and slogging through mud) and higher ground clearance.

Serious power became an option in 1987 when Jeep dumped the 2.8 V6 and put a stout, 4.0-liter, inline six-cylinder engine of Jeep's design on the option list. Kicking out 177 horsepower, the new "Power-Tech Six" could catapult the Cherokee from rest to 60 mph in around 9 seconds -- pretty quick, especially for an SUV. Another benefit of the increased muscle was more towing capacity -- rated at 5,000 pounds. The 2.5-liter, four-cylinder was tweaked for an additional four horsepower, for a total of 121 ponies.

A new, electronically controlled, four-speed automatic transmission replaced the former three-cog unit. The new automatic also offered selectable shift modes: Power (which provided better performance through higher-rpm upshifts and quicker downshifts) and Comfort (which was more relaxed and economical in operation). And the primitive, four-speed manual was history, leaving the five-speed for shift-it-yourselfers.

Cosmetically, the Cherokee received the option of two-tone paint. Inside the cabin were found new door trim panels with stowage bins.

A new, loaded-up Limited four-door model debuted halfway through the model year. Just about every luxury, performance and convenience feature was standard on the new top dog Cherokee. The Limited came with the powerful, 4.0-liter inline six teamed with Selec-Trac and could be identified by its color-keyed bumpers, gold wheels and gold pinstripes. Leather seats, power everything, keyless entry and an eight-speaker sound system were additional highlights of the Limited's lengthy standard equipment list.

Other models received minor changes, such as new plaid seats in the Laredo and revised blackout trim on the Chief.

1988 saw the addition of a Limited two-door and the subtraction of the unpopular turbodiesel engine option. Sharp-eyed enthusiasts could discern an '88 by a new eight-slot grille that replaced the former 10-slot unit.

Laredo models received new chrome trim as well as lower bodyside cladding. In an effort to offer a Cherokee for everyone (and leave no part of the potential market uncovered), a Sport two-door model was offered. The Sport added alloy wheels and special graphics to the plain-Jane Cherokee, allowing those on a budget to drive a sharp rig without breaking the bank.

The availability (on models equipped with the 4.0-liter engine, automatic transmission and Selec-Trac) of a four-wheel, antilock braking system (ABS) was the big news for the 1989 Cherokee. Jeep's ABS operated regardless of whether the Cherokee was in 2WD or 4WD (unlike some competitors who offered either only rear-wheel ABS or four-wheel ABS that wouldn't function when the vehicle was in 4WD).

Other functional upgrades for 1989 included two former options that were made standard. Base models received power steering and all Cherokees swapped their former 13.5-gallon fuel tank for a 20-gallon unit.

Changes were few for Jeep's most popular model for 1990. Safety was improved through the fitment of three-point seatbelts for all outboard occupants. And a new overhead console on the Limited featured a compass, outside thermometer and storage compartments for a garage door control and sunglasses.

Power for both the four- and the six-cylinder engines was boosted for 1991. A new, multi-point fuel-injection system helped the four-banger squeeze out 130 horsepower — an increase of nine horses over the 1990 model. And the big six now cranked out 190 horsepower, bringing the zero to 60 mph time of the Cherokee down to under nine seconds.

Trim levels were shuffled about; the Pioneer was dropped, a new Briarwood debuted, (identified by its fake woodgrain trim on the bodysides) and a four-door Sport model joined the two-door Sport.

Making life easier for the owner of a '91 Cherokee were new double-sided keys, highlighted underhood service points and an optional illuminated entry system.

1992 saw carpeting added to the standard features of the base Cherokee. And Laredo four-doors could now be fitted with (optional) leather seating, just like the fancier Limited. Other than this, not much else changed for the Cherokee this year.

The Cherokee line was simplified for 1993, as the previous five trim levels gave way to just three; base, Sport and the new Country. The Country featured champagne-colored lower body, fender flares and bumpers as well as most of the luxury features of the defunct Limited. And Sport models were updated with a two-tone treatment that featured black on the lower body sides.

A long-life, stainless steel exhaust system was fitted to all models, helping to lower ownership costs.

Safety refinements were added for 1994. Side-impact beams were now found in the doors, the roof was beefed up for more crush resistance and a center, high-mounted stoplight sat atop the liftgate. Air conditioning now used CFC-free refrigerant.

For those who didn't like the champagne (the color, not the libation) of the year before, the Country was now available with silver as the secondary color. And in an effort to make the base model sound more appealing, the entry-level Cherokee now had the "SE" moniker added to its name.

In spite of looking very much like the 1984 version, the Cherokee continued to be popular among those looking for a manageable (both in size and cost) and capable SUV. 1995 brought a few notable changes, a driver's side airbag and the availability of an automatic (albeit just a three-speed) transmission for the four-cylinder SE. Sport and Country models continued with the 4.0-liter, six-cylinder engine hooked up to either a five-speed manual or four-speed automatic gearbox. A few new colors, such as Moss Green and Aqua Pearl, completed the changes for this year.

Minor refinements continued for the Cherokee in 1996. Both the four- and six-cylinder engines were tweaked to run smoother and quieter. The inline six now produced its power at lower rpm, making it more responsive whether accelerating from a light or towing a trailer up a steep grade.

Safety and reliability were both enhanced this year. An automatic transmission/brake pedal interlock reduced the chance of an accident by requiring the driver to apply the brake when moving the gear selector out of Park. The electrical system was upgraded via a heavy-duty alternator and battery. And the engine received a stiffer block, new aluminum pistons and a new powertrain control module.

In addition to the aforementioned improvements, some new colors, such as Bright Jade and Stone White, helped extend the appeal of the Cherokee, now in its 13th model year.

1997-2001

Fourteen years after it debuted, the Cherokee finally received a facelift, well, actually quite a bit more than a facelift. The $215 million update occurred in 1997 when the front and rear ends were smoothed out, the interior was updated and noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) levels were reduced.

Although one had to look close to pick off a '97 versus an older Cherokee, a more cohesive appearance was achieved via softened corners at the nose and tail and with wheelwell flares that blended into the bumper ends. The front vent windows were dropped for a cleaner look and lessened wind noise, and larger side-view mirrors, new bodyside moldings, new wheels, optional deep-tint glass and a center high-mounted stop lamp completed the changes outside.

Inside, change was much more apparent, as the more modern cabin featured several key improvements in ergonomics, safety and style. A new dash (now with a passenger airbag), revised gauges and a new center stack with easier to use controls for the stereo (now available with both cassette and CD players) and climate control system sported a cleaner design with fewer pieces, which decreased the likelihood of squeaks and rattles. Other interior refinements included new door panels, lighted power mirror and window switches, a trip computer for the overhead console and a new center console that boasted integrated cupholders.

In an effort to improve build quality, Jeep made changes to the plant that made the body panels, using new or reconditioned stamping dies and tighter tolerances. More testing, including all electrical functions and increased use of robotic paint sprayers were employed, as well.

Having made extensive engine refinements in 1996, Jeep left well enough alone, but did improve the electrical system via upgraded connectors and a decreased amount of wiring.

For 1998 trim levels were juggled. The Limited returned to replace the Country as the top-of-the-line Cherokee, and the Classic debuted, slotted between the Sport and the Limited. The Classic added color-keyed bumpers and moldings, a roof rack, air conditioning, power mirrors and alloy wheels to the Sport. Three new colors, Chili Pepper Red, Deep Amethyst and Emerald Green, joined the palette.

Soldiering on into 1999, the Cherokee line continued with minor changes. The Sport model now had color-keyed bumpers and grille, a Sentry Key anti-theft system debuted, heated front seats became optional on the Limited, and engine efficiency was improved via revised electronics and a new exhaust catalyst.

The 2000 Cherokee got a more refined version of the 4.0-liter inline six. Introduced the previous year in the Grand Cherokee, the revamped engine ran quieter and cleaner (it now met Low Emission Vehicle standards) than the previous iteration. A new five-speed manual gearbox with improved shift quality was mated to the new six in SE (if the six was ordered) and Sport models, and a four-speed automatic was standard on Cherokee Classic and Limited.

The Limited traded its monochromatic appearance for a flashier appearance this year. Chrome highlights on the grille, headlight bezels and rear license plate brow along with silver alloy wheels served to further distinguish the Limited from the other Cherokees.

Lastly, some new colors debuted, including Patriot Blue and Silverstone Pearls.

The last year for the Cherokee, 2001, would pass without much fanfare. The 2.5-liter four-cylinder engine was finally buried, child seat tether anchors debuted, and Steel Blue replaced Desert Sand on the color chart.

For what its worth, the D35 axle is just fine. I dont wheel hardcore, but I tow my 3500 lb. boat, and do a lot of offroad hunting and fishing type shit with it. I don't have lockers, but I did put in a posi. And I'm running 31's. I love the new bodystyles myself, but I've done a few mods to my 89 to make it more comfortable. I swapped in a console off a 97+ cherokee, got some seats out of a grand cherokee, etc. That way I have the creature comforts of a newer rig, but the advantage of the Renix ECU. Plus, you can pick the Renix year rigs up for cheap and have money to do some nice mods.
 
I've read that the engine computer was changed in '94, making power upgrades a bit more difficult/expensive. I haven't personally modded or talked to anyone extensively about exactly what these changes are, so I can't speak to it directly, but the fact that I already have a '91 made me more sure about taking the time and effort to build it up.
 
The closed cooling system has no opening to the atmosphere. Instead of a coolant recovery tank, it has a pressurized tank that looks very similar to a coolant recovery tank. The radiator does not have a filler opening with a cap. You fill the system thru the pressure tank.

Advantages to the closed cooling system:
1) When properly maintained they are more efficient and more effective then the traditional (open) system.
2) Due to them being "closed" they require slightly less maitenance then the traditional open system.

Cons:
1) They are a bitch to blead the air out of after you drain your system for maintenance. (Requires parking the heep on a hill and removing the temperature probe from the back of the head to let the air out). Not really a big deal imo, and I've never had trouble with it, but you'll hear a lot of sniffling about it.
2) The pressurized tank has a tendency to crack with age, and when it cracks, it no longer maintains pressure so your cooling system isn't functioning effectively. They are around $45 I think at the stealership.

Summary:

Do not let the open/closed system steer you one way or another. If you really want, you can easily convert to an open system-which you can view many write-ups on. But I can tell you...don't listen to anyone else...there is nothing wrong with the closed system. :dunce:
 
Fllor rust!!!! Look for it!!!! Thats the main thing I have been worried about!!!!
 
if I was buying an XJ right now, I would buy it with a max mileage of 150, I would buy a 97-98, I would wait for a good deal until I can buy one pretty cheap. If it had the 8.25, fine, if not fine. I would be certain to check motor for any signs of weakness such as ticking, knocking, smoking, leaking, bad gauge reading, etc. If the motor checks out and it drives right, I would buy it and begin maintenance to get it up to good standard.
 
In addition to the astounding wealth of information above. When selecting your XJ, first decide what you plan on doing with the rig (usage) and what do you plan on doing to the rig (modifications to get desired usage). Hardcore offroad requires sturdier parts and more labor/money. If you just want to get on the trails and rocks and tool around with minimum effort, newer will probably make you happier. (It's no fun be chasing after major rust issues or fluid leaks.) Either way, I recommend a lift with new springs and shocks if you intend to hit the trails hard. Stock springs give a great street ride but quickly let the suspension crash into the bump stops when you start to use any real offroad speed (faster than crawl) plus you can get over so much more with a lift on a jeep versus a pickup due to the shorter wheelbase. Manual trans vs automatic is really more of a matter or personal choice. I too was concerned that my ATX would not be able to handle near bumper standing verticals but the reality of it is that it can and allows for the extreme gentle finesse needed to crawl in out and over tricky obstacles. Many people swear by their locking differentials (air or otherwise) but detroit locker also makes $400 tru-tracs that act mechanically and smoothly, progressively locking/unlocking the axles depending on traction conditions. They are suitable for FWD cars since they do not have the violent lock-unlock action of a ratchet system. Have Fun.
 
Thanks for all the replies...

I am going to avoid rust at all costs, and am currently thinking 92-99, to avoid the vacuum disconnect axles, closed cooling system, 0331 cylinder head, and RENIX ECM...

I would prefer a '96+, for the stiffer chassis, but, like everything else, the more you put in up front means less to mod with afterward :D

I'm prob going to do a mild lift (~3") with some steelies and 31s... Primary job is being a broke college student (GO GATORS!) so I won't have much time/money for wheeling for a coupla years...

That all being said, I'm going to start looking tomorrow, and hopefully find one by the end of the week.

Thanks again!
Tim
 
The other folks can prolly give you alot better technical information than I can; but here's a little insight if you're looking for an XJ in NE Florida.

As mentioned above: RUST!
I'm currently redoing the floors in my 89 Limited. I don't recommend it. Check carefully, the floor can be heavily rusted and still appear fine from below with a good layer of dirt/oil on it. When you're looking under the vehicle push on the underbody and feel for flex and that crumbly rusted metal sound. The metal can rust to bits but retain shape since it's stuck to the carpet. My drivers side looked fine and when I pulled the carpet the entire floor came with it. Nothing left but the frame rail!

Assuming you're not rawhiding the vehicle, I wouldn't worry about the axles too much. (Unless you're talking about the really early XJ's with the GKN shafts. 84 & earlier?) The rock crawling that alot of these guys do is a great deal harsher than anything you're going to run into around here.

When I first started reading up on XJ's I became convinced that if I had anything less than a D44 with alloy shafts I'd be hard pressed to make it to the grocery store. Since then I've seen how much rougher some of the terrain is out west and how well my stock jeep handles. I don't worry anymore. You can prolly handle 90% of this area in a stock machine if you're careful.

Also, look in Jacksonville. I've seen ALOT of good deals recently. I passed a 97 on the way to work today for $3000 in excellent condition. Check the Coastal Trader/ Auto Trader. You can probably get the Jacksonville edition in Gainesville, or atleast online. I've seen a few others deals as well. If you want, PM me and I can grab some phone numbers for you or something.

Lastly, as I'm sure you know: be careful buying vehicles in Gville. Being a college town, many of the vehicles have been maintained poorly, if at all.
 
waffqle said:
The other folks can prolly give you alot better technical information than I can; but here's a little insight if you're looking for an XJ in NE Florida.

As mentioned above: RUST!
I'm currently redoing the floors in my 89 Limited. I don't recommend it. Check carefully, the floor can be heavily rusted and still appear fine from below with a good layer of dirt/oil on it. When you're looking under the vehicle push on the underbody and feel for flex and that crumbly rusted metal sound. The metal can rust to bits but retain shape since it's stuck to the carpet. My drivers side looked fine and when I pulled the carpet the entire floor came with it. Nothing left but the frame rail!

Assuming you're not rawhiding the vehicle, I wouldn't worry about the axles too much. (Unless you're talking about the really early XJ's with the GKN shafts. 84 & earlier?) The rock crawling that alot of these guys do is a great deal harsher than anything you're going to run into around here.

When I first started reading up on XJ's I became convinced that if I had anything less than a D44 with alloy shafts I'd be hard pressed to make it to the grocery store. Since then I've seen how much rougher some of the terrain is out west and how well my stock jeep handles. I don't worry anymore. You can prolly handle 90% of this area in a stock machine if you're careful.

Also, look in Jacksonville. I've seen ALOT of good deals recently. I passed a 97 on the way to work today for $3000 in excellent condition. Check the Coastal Trader/ Auto Trader. You can probably get the Jacksonville edition in Gainesville, or atleast online. I've seen a few others deals as well. If you want, PM me and I can grab some phone numbers for you or something.

Lastly, as I'm sure you know: be careful buying vehicles in Gville. Being a college town, many of the vehicles have been maintained poorly, if at all.

hahahaha i am definately NOT looking in gainesville. one, because as you said, poor college kids can be sheisty, and two, im in the tampa bay area from spring break.

i do very much appreciate the advice, and i actually ended up buy a '97 cherokee country yesterday, (4.0, aw4, np231, 8.25) so i should be set for a while.

thanks again!
tim
 
This is a great thread guys. I got a lot of info from it. I have a 2001 2dr XJ, and am going to put a lift on it, i was thinking 3" I don't do much crazy offroading just some mud and med rocks. Any suggestions for a good spring add a leaf kit. Rustys has some nice oness but I am new to lift thing. Like lost honda I too used to be into import tuning. Thanks for any help you can give.
 
Just a note. I had an '85 Gr Wagoneer w/360. 1 fine ride. Don't get me wrong, I love my '00 lifted Cherokee. The main reason I lifted it was to get back some height from my stock Gr Wagoneer. My '85 Wagoneer was bigger, stronger and heavier than my '72 Impala. If I knew then what I know now, I would have spent a few grand and rebuilt the Wagoneer to new again. Then again... 8mpg in 2wd, 4mpg in 4wd, ouch!

Have you seen the new Patriot?
 
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