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View Full Version : I Finally Got STROKED!!!!


RockMobster
February 27th, 2007, 19:21
After I threw a rod back in Sept 06 I spent alot of time shoping for the best deal on a motor. After finding out no engine is cheap and reading several threads on NAXJA I decided on stroking the 4.0 I6 and hoped it would be worth the extra cost. Finnaly I was able to drop her off on Feb 1st and got to pick up my 00 XJ From Western Engine in Westminster, Colorado yesterday and holly crap am I excited. They built me a 4.7 and she sounds and runs like a dream. I also decided to do the exhaust while it was torn appart and did a Banks headder and down pipe new stock cat, however for some reason they did not replace the muffler wich has a hole in it. What muffler should I do? also I did not do the intake yet, it has a cut stock air box with a K&N fiter now sound goood and breaths better but I want a little more, what intake do you reccomend? I kinda want to do an arb snorkel kit, but a few people have told me they can rob me of hp, is that true? I Need to break it in a little before I can really start to open it up, but I can feel the differance imediatly when I push the peddle, and from what I have gathered from other stroker owners it just keeps getin sweeter and sweeter the more miles I put on it. There are a few other XJ stroker owners in here, what accy's are you runnin and what do you reccomend for me? I'll post some pics tomorow, although it does look the same only new and shiney!

tealcherokee
February 27th, 2007, 20:06
you need to start romping on it before you break it in poorly.

repeat this 10 to 12 times

run through all the gear from idle to redline and back to idle. that is the ONLY way to seat the rings, and thats all youre breaking in.... they cam is broken it, its done during the first 20 min, holding it at 2000 rpm.

if you baby your motor for the first whatever miles it will be broken in for driving it like its a baby, forever.

keep the engine speed anything but constant for the first 500 miles.

change the oil immediatly after cam break in, at 100 miles, at 500 miles change to mobil 1. change again at 1500, and at 5000, and change every 5000 w/ mobil 1 and using a mobil 1 filter

SKIM
February 27th, 2007, 20:36
True that tealcherokee. I have read about that many times.

2000xj4x4
February 27th, 2007, 20:57
x2 .

Gojeep
February 27th, 2007, 23:32
If you want to run a snorkel you would be much better off with a Airflow one as it does not have all the bends and only a fraction of the tubing length which is what causes the restriction on the ARB/Safari one.
See my site for details. www.go.jeep-xj.info (http://www.go.jeep-xj.info)
They can be bought in the US through www.dpgoffroad.com (http://www.dpgoffroad.com)

MudDawg
February 28th, 2007, 04:22
The old fart (me) only has one suggestion.....with all the foofoorah lately about cam failures and poor additive packages in automotive oils.....do yorself a favor and use ONLY Shell Rotella or Delo 400 oil....they have the additive packages you need to keep the cam and lifters happy...one other choice would be the Amerilube oil that Hesco reps....but only after thourough break-in with mineral oil first....

old_man
February 28th, 2007, 07:24
I have always (40 years worth) broken in engines using 30W non-detergent. It is getting hard to find. I change at 100 & 500 miles, then whenever the rings have seated. I run Valvoline DuraBlend. Never lost a cam.

Frank Z
February 28th, 2007, 07:32
Tom,
A year ago I would have agreed with you, but with the advent of zinc-less oil and the rash of cam failures I followed my machinists advice and used Rotella 15w40.

MudDawg
February 28th, 2007, 08:06
I have run Castrol GTX in all my engines since before time began with no lube related failures of any kind....when I build my next NEW motor...im going with the rotella....not taking any chances....

bigolexj
February 28th, 2007, 09:56
I ran Rotella in my diesel for years. What weight do you recommend dawg?

Seiler
February 28th, 2007, 12:07
After I threw a rod back in Sept 06 I spent alot of time shoping for the best deal on a motor. After finding out no engine is cheap and reading several threads on NAXJA I decided on stroking the 4.0 I6 and hoped it would be worth the extra cost. Finnaly I was able to drop her off on Feb 1st and got to pick up my 00 XJ From Western Engine in Westminster, Colorado yesterday and holly crap am I excited. They built me a 4.7 and she sounds and runs like a dream. I also decided to do the exhaust while it was torn appart and did a Banks headder and down pipe new stock cat, however for some reason they did not replace the muffler wich has a hole in it. What muffler should I do? also I did not do the intake yet, it has a cut stock air box with a K&N fiter now sound goood and breaths better but I want a little more, what intake do you reccomend? I kinda want to do an arb snorkel kit, but a few people have told me they can rob me of hp, is that true? I Need to break it in a little before I can really start to open it up, but I can feel the differance imediatly when I push the peddle, and from what I have gathered from other stroker owners it just keeps getin sweeter and sweeter the more miles I put on it. There are a few other XJ stroker owners in here, what accy's are you runnin and what do you reccomend for me? I'll post some pics tomorow, although it does look the same only new and shiney!

How much did all that come to if you don't mind me asking?

S

95steel
February 28th, 2007, 12:26
I have been running rotella synthetic for years now. Awesome oil, never had a problem, cleaned the heck out of the engine too!!!

I ran valvoline or penzoil before that, engine oil pressure remains steady all day on the trail, even in the middle of july now. Lifter noise is also reduced, stayed reduced too! I am at 200,000 miles now, still running strong.

RockMobster
March 3rd, 2007, 09:21
Thanks For all the advice. I drove it up the mountains from Denver to Copper Mountain and it ran awsome all the up and even better back down, however when i got off the hiway and stopped at a stop light it stalled out. then when I re started it and accelerated it freaked out and started jurking like when you let off the clutch without giving enough gas in a standard type of vehicle wich was wierd cuz its an automatic, than died again @ about 3.5 thousand rpm's. I got a check engine light and now it jerks the same @ about 3.5 thsnd rpm and dies if i try to stop, but if i start it and let it sit it will idle. It has about 275 miles on it now and was just starting to break in and run sic. Any Idea's????? I hd it towed back to the shop we'll say what western says, He said over the phone it sounded like some sensor in the tranny, dont know much about the mechanics on my jeep but i find it hard to believe i just bought a new engine and the tranny wich was fine befiore is now suddenly bad.

Dr. Dyno
March 3rd, 2007, 10:43
Sounds like you have a bad TPS.

MrShoeBoy
March 3rd, 2007, 11:18
I hope you didnt use a Crane cam, they suck a whole lot and will probably ruin all the bearings in the motor like it did to me. Watch out around 30k because you will have to replace it.

DONT USE MOBLE 1. Go do a search over on Jeepsunlimited and search for Oil. There is a huge thread about the lack of zinc in the newer motor oils and Moble 1 doesnt have enough zinc to keep a performance cam alive. Run Rotella or the Ameri lube that Hesco sells.

I agree with Tealcherokee to a degree. You need to run the motor through the rpm range but dont abuse it and not WOT and not all the time. The main and rod bearings on a new motor are still tight and need some miles for everything to clearance otherwise there is a chance you can spin a rod or main if they are tight and you really hammer on the throttle. Dont know if this is true or not but I heard it from an old school mechanic friend of mine who I trust as well as the machine shop I use. Both of them have been building motors for years.

AARON

BlueCuda
March 3rd, 2007, 12:54
I am at 20K with my crane cam in my stroker motor. Running Rotella since the first or second oil change, we will see if I can pass the 30K mark lol.

RockMobster
March 5th, 2007, 11:04
So the first check engine light was the map sensor came unplugged. but now there is another eng light. It seems to be running ok though. It came on while I was gettin on it a little bit on the hiway.

Dr. Dyno
March 6th, 2007, 08:04
I am at 20K with my crane cam in my stroker motor. Running Rotella since the first or second oil change, we will see if I can pass the 30K mark lol.

I hope your Crane cam lasts over 100k miles. Yours will be a good test case to see if Rotella does indeed protect the cam from premature wear. If it doesn't and you become victim to the 30k mile cam failure bug, we'll know that it's the cam that's to blame and not the oil.
My stroker's done 39k miles and I swapped my old stock cam back in at 34k miles after the Crane cam/lifters bit the dust.
_____________________________
The sleeper: 1992 XJ Laredo - 4.6L Stroker - 5-speed AX15 manual
Dyno (http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/HP_TQ.jpg) - 198hp@4650rpm, 254lbft@3550rpm at wheels = 245hp/306lbft at flywheel
Websites - Jeep 4.0 Performance (http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com), 4.6L Stroker Build-Up (http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html), Dino's Jeep Tricks (http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/)