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8.8 question

ponyracer1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Crestview, Fl
First off yes I searched.

I'm collecting parts for an upcoming 8.8 swap, I need a spicer part number (if possible) for the adapter that goes from the rear of the drive shaft to the front of the axle on an 8.8.

I'm in england so I can't just run to a wrecking yard or to autozone and have them look it up.

Thanks guys.
 
Why not upgrade your flange to a yoke. Inland Empire Driveline has them for a 1310, 1330 or 1350 universal joint.
 
There is a ground clearance advantage, and the yoke provides for more angular deflection. Strength is a toss up.

You have to replace and retorque the crush sleeve, so the swap is best done whilst re-gearing.
 
Ahh ok, I'll put that on the to do list for next year when I return to the states. I'll be regearing from 3.73's to 4.88's and going to 35's from 33's. I know the gearing isn't optimal for a year on 33's but it has to be better than 3.55's!!!!

One more for you, in you opinion whats the best rear locker for an 8.8. I like detroits but is there one the 8.8 likes better or is it personnell preference?

Also the one I'm installing has a limited slip, should I lincoln lock it for a year of just use the limited slip? Terrain is lots of mud and soft soil with limited rock crawling.

Thanks for the reply's
 
ponyracer1 said:
Ahh ok, I'll put that on the to do list for next year when I return to the states. I'll be regearing from 3.73's to 4.88's and going to 35's from 33's. I know the gearing isn't optimal for a year on 33's but it has to be better than 3.55's!!!!

One more for you, in you opinion whats the best rear locker for an 8.8. I like detroits but is there one the 8.8 likes better or is it personnell preference?

Also the one I'm installing has a limited slip, should I lincoln lock it for a year of just use the limited slip? Terrain is lots of mud and soft soil with limited rock crawling.

Thanks for the reply's
I'd weld it for soft stuff like you described.
Do it right, though (if there is such a thing as correctly Lincon locking).
Weld the spiders and then weld them to the carrier.
Lots of pre heat and slooooowwwwwww cooling.
 
Just keep the LS. If you have access to another 8.8 with a LS, and can steal parts, you can add another friction disk to each side and it will really "lock up" tight.

I'm partial to ARB's, even though I've broken them (side gears). The new generation of 8.8 ARB's address this problem, and are very tough, and they don't explode when you break a shaft (like Detroits can)
 
ponyracer1 said:
One more for you, in you opinion whats the best rear locker for an 8.8. I like detroits but is there one the 8.8 likes better or is it personnell preference?

Alot of preference, but the Auburn Ected is available for the 8.8 and offeres the best of both worlds (limited slip and locker), and is cheaper than a lot of other options.

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/470_496_22_503

More information on it here:

http://www.auburngear.com/oemdifferentials/common/literature/ECTED_Literature.pdf

I'll agree you should get rid of the flange and go with a yoke when you re-gear too - at the same time you put in a locker.

-C
 
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