4x2 to 4x4 conversion parts list...

I don't plan to buy a parts jeep since I most likley won't be able to get one with the parts I want...so I intend to go to self service junkyards and try my luck

Here is the list I have so far:

3.07 high pinion D30 front, prefer non disconnect (was nondisconnect offered on all years or just some?)

AX15 (possible upgrade to NV3550 later)

Chevy pattern bellhousing

NV242 23 spline

Driveshaft front and rear

shift linkage for T-case

Anything that I am missing? :dunno:

Inmo you need to do ther rear axles as well. You can score a matched set for not much more and goto a lower gear ratio. The 3.07 sux once you really start to build. Will also save you down the road from doing it twice.

you need to look up Vetteboy and make friends with him, he did the conversion and he is a prettty smart guy and can help ya with alot of info beyond the normal stuff available on the web

I'll look for vettboy...

I actually WANT the 3.07 axles... perhaps fpr the price of pick-n-pull I'll grab a matched set of 4.10s for spares :farmer: this is a daily driver for now...untill I change my mind :wierd: then again I have a 1983 wagoneer perfect for a beater offroad rig :roll:

Who... would EVER wan 3.07's... even w/31's it'd be hella sluggish.

Trust us on this one.

Use the 4.10's.... make the 3.07's your spare

See, I have 33x12.50 on 3.07s. While I am waiting to regear, I can deal with it right now, I get decent gas mileage (although its not common to get good mileage w/o regearing, somehow I am doing it) but when I had the 30s it was fine, with the 33s I think I ran into 2 problems where I really wanted deeper gears, on was when I was stuck behind a car that was blcokign the entrance to the chinese place I wanted to go to and I had to drive through 2 ft of plowed snow on the side of the road. I mean, I was in 4 hi so I could have gone low, but it made it through fine, just stalled once when I first went in cause I didnt realize how packed it was. I can deal with it for now, although I would recomend otherwise if you plan on building at all and are going to get new axles right now anyway

NapaBavarian said:

I'll look for vettboy...

Click to expand...

:wave:

What exactly are you starting with? As in, what year/motor/existing trans/etc?

If you're going to lift this Jeep, do it at the same time, that'll help you with having the correct length driveshafts (you may have to have some custom made if you can't find the correct ones you need).

You'll need the following parts:
Front & rear axles (matching gear ratios)
- New u-bolts if replacing rear axle
- new diff fluid for junkyard axle (& you might as well do your rear one at the same time)
- possibly new brake hardware for junkyard axle(s) (this ran us more than the axles did on the last 4wd conversion I did!!!)
- Some misc bolts that'll break or have to be cut off (like UCA/LCA bolts)
- If the front axle you're using is a vacuum disco you'll have to reposition the shift collar & cap the lines
New front & rear driveshafts
- new u-joints if these are junkyard parts
- may have to be shortened to fit (auto vs. manual shafts are different)
4wd transmission
- new tranny fluid & filter if automatic
- new gear oil if manual
- Is the tranny for the same model year? - Pilot bearing may be different or need one removed or installed.
Transfer case
- new ATF fluid for transfer case (possibly new rear seal would be good to do too)
- transfer case linkage rods
- transfercase linkage mounting bracketry from tunnel
- 4wd shift lever & indicator faceplate
- If this is a tc that has vacuum to the front axle you'll have to cap the lines
Crossmember/tranny mount that fits your new tranny

I think that's all, but I'm probably missing something.

I've done this a couple times now, here is a link to a recent thread & some pics:
http://www.terrainstompers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=176

Before:

After:

Also the clutch throwout on the AX15 changed between 93-94, so be careful there. The older ones used an internal slave, which changed to an external in '94. I've successfully used a newer bellhousing and clutch master cylinder with an older internal slave, however it required custom-bending the lines in the bellhousing and also splicing the hydraulic line to the flare fitting on the slave using a series of adapters.

The external slave is preferable. You need the correct bellhousing and if you use an older AX15 that originally had an internal, you 'll need to swap the bearing retainer from the front.

I'm confused why you list a Chevy pattern bellhousing? Are you trying to put this on a 4-cyl? I vote for swapping to 4.10 axles from a 4-cyl as well.

Speed_racer said:

Who... would EVER wan 3.07's... even w/31's it'd be hella sluggish.

Trust us on this one.

Use the 4.10's.... make the 3.07's your spare

Click to expand...

Probably more like 28's

Great!!! I don't need fast, and I sure don't need a stop light grand prix! If I can make a stock Vanagon break the century mark then perhaps slow is better for me!

Going fast only breaks stuff and wears what dosn't break faster.

Trust me on this one :cheers:

Besides, I have a barn full of BMWs including most of an M3, if I want fast then I'd put one of those together :scared: this is to go to the mountians :worship: and drive down the nasty roads arround where I live, where going fast in winter means a likley trip down a 100+ foot embankment, my buddy got luckey on his trip and got his truck stuck on a tree 30 feet down...just before the 60 foot verticle drop.

vetteboy said:

:wave:

What exactly are you starting with? As in, what year/motor/existing trans/etc?

Click to expand...

Good day!

1991/hole under the hood!

I got it with nothing, but am told it was a 4.0l/5speed Cherokee, has all the clutch hardware read to go for the 5 speed, so I'm pretty much starting from scratch :woohoo:

lawsoncl said:

I'm confused why you list a Chevy pattern bellhousing? Are you trying to put this on a 4-cyl? I vote for swapping to 4.10 axles from a 4-cyl as well.

Click to expand...

I'm going to Mercedes turbo diesel and the adaptor plates come in toyota and chevy pattern.

NapaBavarian said:

I'm going to Mercedes turbo diesel and the adaptor plates come in toyota and chevy pattern.

Click to expand...

Take lots of pics and take lots of note this would be neet to see when your done.

NapaBavarian said:

1991/hole under the hood!

I got it with nothing, but am told it was a 4.0l/5speed Cherokee, has all the clutch hardware read to go for the 5 speed, so I'm pretty much starting from scratch :woohoo:

I'm going to Mercedes turbo diesel and the adaptor plates come in toyota and chevy pattern.

Click to expand...

OK - then you don't want a Chevy pattern, I don't think, unless you want to use a Chevy transmission too.

At this point I would most definitely look into the Toyota stuff. The AX15 was used jointly between Jeep/Chrysler and Toyota - a variant of it can be found as the R151F in the 22RTE (turbo 4-cyl) trucks. You can use the front half of that, swap a Jeep AX15 tailhousing and output shaft onto it, and bolt a standard driver-side-drop NP231 on there. The first gear in the R151F is lower than a standard AX15 (4.31:1 vs. 3.8:1) so that'll make it a little nicer.

However, for an uber-pimp setup (depending on how in-depth your fab skills are), you might want to consider using an entire Toyota drivetrain, with the stock passenger-side-drop gear-driven t-case, and using a D44 from a Waggy with the diff on that side.

If you want to go the Chevy route, you could find a NV3500 from an S10 blazer with a NP231C transfer case (slightly beefier than the Jeep NP231J model), or a T5 from an older pickup/S10. As long as you take the stuff from a truck with either a 4.3L V6 or SB motor you should be fine. Other options would be to use something off a larger truck (SM420 / SM465) which would give you a wicked first gear (6-7:1) and no overdrive, which would be a good compliment to the 3.07s. Getting the transfer case to drop on the driver's side might be tough though, however the transmission would be effectively bombproof.

With all the above options, I *think* the stock Jeep clutch master cylinder should move enough fluid to run either the Chevy or Toyota slave hardware.

It's been a while since I've looked into any of this, but in your particular situation I wouldn't bother trying to use any stock Jeep stuff - I think it would just be more expensive and more of an annoyance than anything else.

Here's some info I saved regarding the AX15 bellhousing and input shafts and swapping between Ford, Toyota, and Jeep http://mysite.verizon.net/~chris83803/Bell_Housing_Info.pdf