Blank sheet front end build.

My jeep is getting near a point in which I can use it. Ive done suspension,bumpers.8.8 locker 4.88 rear,winch,skids, rollbar ect ect. I need to build my high pinion 30 or bolt in a 44. I am thinking trussing the 1998 high pinion 30 gears lockers and spare axel shafts. Wife gave approval on 35" krawlers and I have a very light foot. I have not touched the front end and will start from scratch. I don't want 2k in a 30 front. But I don't mind spending more for a built 44. Any body recently looked at the best options for a bolt in 44? I can use 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern because the rear axel has holes for both patterns and I will buy wheels with tires. I don't think I want to build a waggy 44 because I would rather buy a new housing with all the brackets on it. If you were spending sombody elses's money what would you consider? Any complete solution deals out there? I have money to spend wisly and don't want to get bogged down on a lenghthy font end build or worse build it twice.Hasta Yea I know but things change daily.

You're not going to find a "bolt" in 44 unless you get a rubicon front axle and they use unitbearing hubs, so its nothing more than a 44 center and 30 outers. If you're looking to have someone build you a 44, get ready to fork over some cash. Rockcrusher, Currie, Dynatrac, all make axles custom order. There are more out there, but those are just to name a few.

Just got off the phone with dynatrac and the said 7k for a dana 44 and 6 k for a dana 60 because the can get 60 parts cheaper. My 30 is looking better and and better.

From talking to numerous XJ guys around here, the D30 will be fine on 35" or less tires and with a moderate right foot. The only real strength gain in a D44 is the R&P, not worth the extra cash unless you plan on going with really big tires and/or mashing the bejeesus out of the skinny pedal. Re-gear with a selectable locker and some high alloy shafts, the D30 should be OK.

Stumpalump said:

Just got off the phone with dynatrac and the said 7k for a dana 44 and 6 k for a dana 60 because the can get 60 parts cheaper. My 30 is looking better and and better.

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You'll find that the majority of us Coloradan XJ owners keep our 30s until death due us part........

Seriously though, you'll find 35s and 30s to be the norm around here.

I don't think I could justify building up a D35, since the D44 and 8.8 are readily available, easily swappable options.

But hey, if you've had good luck with your D35, kudos.

fubar XJ said:

I don't think I could justify building up a D35, since the D44 and 8.8 are readily available, easily swappable options.

But hey, if you've had good luck with your D35, kudos.

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Huh?

I think he was referring to 35" tires on a D30 front. Not that they wheel on 30 fronts and 35 rears.

My take on it at least.

Overdriven said:

I think he was referring to 35" tires on a D30 front. Not that they wheel on 30 fronts and 35 rears.

My take on it at least.

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91 Jeep Project said:

Huh?

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Haha, yeah, I misunderstood you. I thought you were talking about most folks building up their D30 and D35.

My bad.

I'm compairing the 27 and 30 spline axel/locker options for the Dana 30. Has any body ever broke an inner 27 spline shaft? I know they break at the u-joint but that wont get upgraded with the 30 spline kit. I'm thinking 27 spline cromo axels and then at least I'll have my stock shafts for spares. Am I missing somthing that is great about the super 30 kits? The cost isn't much more but I'd have to buy at least cromo inners for spares to fit the 30 spline carrier. I guess I don't get the advantage of a 30 spline inner if thats not even the place they break or do they?

Doing a similar buildup.....HP30 for my 2000. Probed the minds of the "been there, done that" crowd and the concensus is that if your going to build the 30, it only costs a little more to build it as tough as you can......go with 30 spline alloy axles and let spicer U-joints be your weak link. They'll easily hold up to 35's unless you're constantly stupid with the skinny pedal, nothing can hold up to stupid, longterm.......ring gear will prolly check out first if one is that hard on it, but many more folks run 33's and 35's on a well built D30 than the ones that swap in D44's and D60's up front.

Find a straight HP housing, strip it bare and truss it. I'm also adding some reinforcement tricks from the Jeepspeed crowds as well.....because it ain't gonna hurt.

XJEEPER said:

Find a straight HP housing, strip it bare and truss it. I'm also adding some reinforcement tricks from the Jeepspeed crowds as well.....because it ain't gonna hurt.

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Could you please give some more information about that? Thanks!

Stumpalump said:

I'm compairing the 27 and 30 spline axel/locker options for the Dana 30. Has any body ever broke an inner 27 spline shaft? I know they break at the u-joint but that wont get upgraded with the 30 spline kit. I'm thinking 27 spline cromo axels and then at least I'll have my stock shafts for spares. Am I missing somthing that is great about the super 30 kits? The cost isn't much more but I'd have to buy at least cromo inners for spares to fit the 30 spline carrier. I guess I don't get the advantage of a 30 spline inner if thats not even the place they break or do they?

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Yes, I've seen many D30 Spicer inner axles break at the splines. I've also seen D30 stub shafts break at the splines. I haven't seen D30 27 spline chromo axles break at the splines, but that's just me, maybe others have. If you're starting from scratch, there's no point in not building it with the 30 spline stuff, and then don't worry about carrying spares. If you're not going to run aftermarket axle joints, then get Spicer 760x joints, preferably cryo treated, and install them using snap rings (full circle clips) and NOT the stock C clips. If you use your head, always climb rocks and ledges with your tires pretty straight, and keep the front tires out of a binding situation, this should be a decently reliable combination. IF you happen to break a u-joint, stop immediatly and don't drive for even a foot on the broken axle joint, and your chromo shaft yokes should hold up fine. If you want to wheel more worry free, then spring for some aftermarket u-joints. It doesn't matter whether you build a D30 or a D44, you need chromo shafts and good axle u-joints.

You can build a D44 yourself with all the right parts for under $2500, but you can't get close to that if you have an axle builder do it for you. A D30 with good shafts and joints is a good choice for up to 35" tires. You will definitely need to truss it, since it WILL warp and the housing flex won't help the gears. If you spend the $$ and build it right, the D30 will take a fair amount of abuse, and is an economical choice if you can't build your own D44.

Just as I was ready to buy the Dana 30 stuff I found a deal on a Rubicon dana 44. I got a rubicon air compressor with it for the locker and need to figure out the wiring. The compressor has three wires,Ground,a compressor wire and a solinoid wire???The pumkin has a switch in it with two wires. Anybody been there and done that? I aso ordered TnT track bar and upper controll arms and JKS lower arms. Another cool thing I have coming is lower axel control arm mounts from TnT they are heavy,plated and will mount the controll arm 1/2 inch higher. 39 bucks. One of mine was bent a little anyway. I am still debating the warn lockout hubs but need to fiqure the comressor,solinoid and switch issue befor I can focus. Thanks

Stumpalump said:

Just as I was ready to buy the Dana 30 stuff I found a deal on a Rubicon dana 44. I got a rubicon air compressor with it for the locker and need to figure out the wiring. The compressor has three wires,Ground,a compressor wire and a solinoid wire???The pumkin has a switch in it with two wires. Anybody been there and done that? I aso ordered TnT track bar and upper controll arms and JKS lower arms. Another cool thing I have coming is lower axel control arm mounts from TnT they are heavy,plated and will mount the controll arm 1/2 inch higher. 39 bucks. One of mine was bent a little anyway. I am still debating the warn lockout hubs but need to fiqure the comressor,solinoid and switch issue befor I can focus. Thanks

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Make sure you still truss if for strength. It doesn't have much more strength than a D30 does.

The TNT lower control arm mounts(nice) raise the location of the control arm bolt 1/2" so I would like to grind the coil bucket/lower shock mount for clearance. Any problem with these things bending after being ground for clearance? Should I reinfoce it or grind away and leave it?