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Changing my harmonic balancer the split apart

WheelinJR

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Portland, Oregon
Friday night I was coming home with my girlfriend from dinner, and long story short the outer ring of my harmonic balancer/crank pulley rolled down the street in front of me.

So I bought a new one, pulled the old one, got the new one on, got the belt re-installed, and everything is ready to go.

Only issue:

As soon as the pulley bolt got snug, it started to spin the motor, so its a bit of a pain in the ass to tighten. I made a lame as attempt at taking a BFH to the wrench and smackin it a few times, but yeah not gonna trust that.

So I'm wondering if anyones got any tricks. I'm working at my apartment with basic hand tools only. 91 HO with an auto.

If no one has any tips and tricks I am gonna nurse it down the road a few blocks to my buddy's house and use his impact.
 
a friend held a giant strapwrench while i torqued it. its trickey but it worked for me.
 
I've heard tell of some putting a long wrench on it but disconnecting the coil wire, so it won't start, and hitting the starter. BUT, I don't remember if that was for removal or reinstallation.
 
I don't think that your going to get a impact in there with out pulling the radiator!

A chain wrench is the simple answer but thats not a basic tool nore do i thing that you can find it at your locale parts store.....might be able to order one but that don't help ya now............. pull it back out(the bolt) put lots of Lock tight on it and then tighten it with a hammer:twak: that was as close to a hammer hitting some thing that i could find;)


Flash.
 
I wrapped my old belt around the harmonic balancer, and clamped it tight with a vice grip where the belt came back together ... it worked extremely well ... I was able to torque it down to specs. (80 foot-pounds for the I-6 4.0).
 
Actually, a ratchet strap holding one of the 3 spokes of the pulley (while pointing down) to the driver tow hook worked perfect for holding it from turning.

To anyone with a questionable balancer I strongly advise replacing it. Mine had some rubber sticking out and looked like it had a wobble before it failed completely, and the new one made a huge difference.

Runs so much smoother now

Out with the old
bal1.jpg


In with the new, I had to use my little dremel stone to take the paint or powdercoat or whatever it was out of the center, but it fit pretty well. This one was made by Dorman, was just shy of $62 at Autozone. I had one lined up for $44 at baxters with my discount, but they dropped the ball and didnt get it in.
bal2.jpg


And yes, thats an X-Men towel, oh yes.
 
Jason-RJR said:
Actually, a ratchet strap holding one of the 3 spokes of the pulley (while pointing down) to the driver tow hook worked perfect for holding it from turning.

To anyone with a questionable balancer I strongly advise replacing it. Mine had some rubber sticking out and looked like it had a wobble before it failed completely, and the new one made a huge difference.

Runs so much smoother now

Out with the old
bal1.jpg


In with the new, I had to use my little dremel stone to take the paint or powdercoat or whatever it was out of the center, but it fit pretty well. This one was made by Dorman, was just shy of $62 at Autozone. I had one lined up for $44 at baxters with my discount, but they dropped the ball and didnt get it in.
bal2.jpg


And yes, thats an X-Men towel, oh yes.

i actually did a dorman harmonic balancer about a week ago. i had an issue with fitment in bellow zero temps. if only i had a car lift...
 
montanaman said:
I wrapped my old belt around the harmonic balancer, and clamped it tight with a vice grip where the belt came back together ... it worked extremely well ... I was able to torque it down to specs. (80 foot-pounds for the I-6 4.0).

I did something similar/ but used an adjustable type wrench, check out the pics of my whole ordeal-
long story short my outer pully went the other direction- into the engine- had to replace the timing cover as well-
HPIM7216.jpg

HPIM7217.jpg

HPIM7218.jpg

HPIM7220.jpg

HPIM7222.jpg

HPIM7223.jpg

HPIM7224.jpg

HPIM7225.jpg

HPIM7226.jpg

HPIM7227.jpg


I bassically did the same thing for putting the pully back on. didnt take any pictures of re-assembly. boy what a fun job at 32 degrees out.
 
I'm in the middle of this job and I needed a few tips. I put 2 bolts in the threaded holes and used a prybar to hold it, I've done that before, but this time one of the bolts broke off. So, I had to pull the bumper off to get more room to remove bolt. The big holes in the frame behing the bumper will allow me a straight shot to drill the center of the bolt so I can use an easy out.:rattle: I expected this job to take a couple of hours. Had to work today, but will finish tommorow.
 
KsMJ said:
I'm in the middle of this job and I needed a few tips. I put 2 bolts in the threaded holes and used a prybar to hold it, I've done that before, but this time one of the bolts broke off. So, I had to pull the bumper off to get more room to remove bolt. The big holes in the frame behing the bumper will allow me a straight shot to drill the center of the bolt so I can use an easy out.:rattle: I expected this job to take a couple of hours. Had to work today, but will finish tommorow.

Yeah, it only took me around an hour.

My ratchet strap method worked really well, once you get that bolt out give it a shot.
 
Worked for me also. I just used one of the simple strap wrenches that are available at Lowes, Sears, and I assume at Home Depot, etc. in a package with two sizes for $20 or less as I recall. Useful for a lot of things -- I've misplaced my oil filter wrench and the small strap works nicely to loosen the filter.
 
RichP said:
I've heard tell of some putting a long wrench on it but disconnecting the coil wire, so it won't start, and hitting the starter. BUT, I don't remember if that was for removal or reinstallation.

thats for removal.... and works quite well :)
 
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