• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Which Long Arm Design?

Begster

Begster

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cape Cod/Boston, Mass
Alright, I'm getting ready to start desigining some long arms for my XJ.

What I want to know is, Should I try to emulate the T&T Y-Link design, or should I just go with the RE radius arm design because it seems like a more simple design? My only concern with the Y-link would be that the tube is bent, but I could just put a gusset on it, and plus the Y-link seems to be fine without it.

Almost all of the guys in my club run Rubicon (Our shop is a supplier of RE so they only install them). So I could easily get some measurements off their rigs. I really don't know anyone who has the Y-link to look at thiers.

I was also planning on cutting up my RE short arms and using the end bushings and superflex joints on the new arms. I was lookin online and saw a couple things from RE I could order to make the building a little easier. Sound alright?

I have access to a lathe, mill, welding supplies, tube bender, etc. in our machine shop. All the guys I know are Engineers so I was thinking about having them help me design some stuff once we are done building our car for the races.
 
Last edited:
sounds like you're got the perfect situation to build your owns with your tools and friends. as far as the design, just depends on the type of wheelin you do. If you do mostly all rocks and ground clearance is an issue the y-link might be a good setup. Then again, if you don't do anything real sticky, there isn't another more proven suspension manufacturing company for jeeps than rubicon express (just my .02 though) and looking to them for ideas seems like a pretty good start to me
 
Aren't they really the same setup? Save the TNT setup comes with a belly skid, and the links are bent... Or is the RE setup not a radius arm design?



Meh. If you want the clearance the bent links can work. Just use thick enough material... If you want simplicity, straight links are that.


How and where you attach the frae side mounts for the links is far more important if you ask me.
 
There are many examples of long arms out there. Like everything else, there are lots of ways to do it. I have been an engineer for 35 years and tend to design something that works well and I don't worry about gold plating everything. I want something that gets me there, doesn't break, and most importantly something I can afford. Here is a link to what I did.

Many will say my mounts hang down too far and call them rock magnets. I have wheeled the piss out them and never got hung up on them anywhere here in Colorado or on any of the trails at Moab. While the fancy tucked up arms and custom cross members give you better clearance, I simply haven't found the need to go to that extreme. I would rather spend my time and money on the next project.

http://www.4x4getaways.net/longarms.htm

My "new" rig uses the same type of mounts, but this time I am running a HP44 and radius arms.

newrig.jpg
 
For the trackbar, I have the trackbar that came with my RE 4.5 inch kit. When I do the long arms, I'll be going up to 5.5 in the front. (I already am at 5.5 in the back).

What I want to know, is if instead of getting a new trackbar, can I just make a new bracket for it above the old one. Cut off where the steering stablizer goes, and attach a bracket right there to make up for the increased height?

sort of like this?
000_0123.jpg
 
If I did a 3-link, then I wouldn't be able to go with the T&T design? So which side would I have the upper link on, and would I have to do the 3 seperate arm design, or could I just do a radius arm on one side, and a straight link on the other?

This is my DD so I don't want to do anything to extreme and I don't konw much about 3 lik systems in terms of safety or anything. Whats the advantage?
 
i do 3 links, on the drivers side, because the cast mount is stronger than the sheet metal one and it doesnt get in the way of the exhaust. there is no saftey disadvantage, and there is only a slight pull under heavy braking. as far as the advantage, radius arms have a terrible amount of bind, 3 links have none
 
tealcherokee said:
i do 3 links, on the drivers side, because the cast mount is stronger than the sheet metal one and it doesnt get in the way of the exhaust. there is no saftey disadvantage, and there is only a slight pull under heavy braking. as far as the advantage, radius arms have a terrible amount of bind, 3 links have none
Click to expand...



I'm going to somewhat disagree.


The typical radius arm setup that is offered for Jeeps is what would be called a non-wristed setup. Both control arms attempt to control caster and cause binding. If you built a wristed setup (one upper link... stupid term) - there will be next to no binding. Yes, you could get more flex out of many of the aftermarket radius arm setups by removing one of the upper arms.


The real problem with radius arms is the inability to get the dive/anti-dive in a somewhat acceptable range. Which means they like to hop. And other bad things. A wristed setup is worse for this.


But, I will agree the 3-link is the way to go. Long as you don't f' it up. If you want to make it really cool, centre the top link. Or better yet, centre the bottom link and run two upper links...
 
From what I've read, a 3-link is the "grass-hopper's knees"! It's high on my list for my next "iteration". But, like a lot of us, I'm a little afraid to loose one of my control arms. And, based on the amount of back & forth on the many threads I've read (here and pirate4x4), it's not clear that the 3-link is, in fact, satisfactory on the street; that said, Rock Krawler sales a 3-link system. I'm assuming (to "ass ume" is to make an "ass" out of "u and me") they wouldn't sale that to the public if in fact there were serious safety issues that they could be held liable for. Their system mounts the upper "torque" arm om the driver's side.
 
xjbubba said:
From what I've read, a 3-link is the "grass-hopper's knees"! It's high on my list for my next "iteration". But, like a lot of us, I'm a little afraid to loose one of my control arms. And, based on the amount of back & forth on the many threads I've read (here and pirate4x4), it's not clear that the 3-link is, in fact, satisfactory on the street; that said, Rock Krawler sales a 3-link system. I'm assuming (to "ass ume" is to make an "ass" out of "u and me") they wouldn't sale that to the public if in fact there were serious safety issues that they could be held liable for. Their system mounts the upper "torque" arm om the driver's side.
Click to expand...


thats why i built mine a 4 link and simply remove the axle end of one of my uppers and hang it out of the way, then reattach for street use. 3 will work but i feel safer with 4 when doing 65 mph on the highway with other cars all around me.
 
That's an approach I've considered. Seams perfect front-end geometry is not required for off-road (crawling), so all this "anti-dive/squat stuff you must control for the highway becomes mute.
88rockxj, is your 4-link short, medium, or long? And, which arm do you disconnect when off-road?
 
xjbubba said:
That's an approach I've considered. Seams perfect front-end geometry is not required for off-road (crawling), so all this "anti-dive/squat stuff you must control for the highway becomes mute.
88rockxj, is your 4-link short, medium, or long? And, which arm do you disconnect when off-road?
Click to expand...


my lowers are 36 and my uppers are 37, ive only had it on 3 runs so far and only removed the pass upper but i think im going to try removing the driver side next time. some people say to run the pass some say run the driver so im not sure who to believe, i figure ill just find out on my own. im installing hydraulic assist and building some bumpers right now before i can get back on the trail, i work 6 days a week so it will be a while before i can report back which is better.
 
xjbubba said:
That's an approach I've considered. Seams perfect front-end geometry is not required for off-road (crawling), so all this "anti-dive/squat stuff you must control for the highway becomes mute.
Click to expand...


Not required, but nice. It makes a difference if you actually want to be able to get over obstacles.


And with radius arms you can never get it anywhere in the general vicinity of perfect...
 
Not quite sure what problems you ran into, but I'm running a SBC and a 4-link suspension up front--short arms and drop brackets.
 
Ya I realize how there would be binding when flexing, but the way you guys are saying it it sounds like the mounts will get ripped off the axle. A ton of guys I know are running radius arms, and haven't had that happen, so I think I'll be safe with that. Plus, I think making the radius arms would be easier because I already have some short arms to cut up and the bushings and everything.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Crossover and High Steer (Wagoneer Dana 44) Clearance Issues?
Replies
9
Views
2K
Evan03
E
E
Steering Redo.... Questions before I dive in.
2
Replies
28
Views
994
RCP Phx
R
G
Braided Fuel Line/Fittings Size From Quick Clip to Rail
Replies
2
Views
1K
GraniteCow
G
G
Frame Stiffeners and Longarms, Add Plate to Center?
Replies
2
Views
3K
JonnyCat63
J
M
Track bar drop bracket suggestions
Replies
18
Views
7K
Ol Blue
O
Back
Top