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davehoose
July 9th, 2006, 23:14
I was wondering if it is a straight swap to replace a track bar. In addition, do I have to jack up the front of the xj or can I just drive it up on my ramps and uninstall the current track bar and reinstall the new one. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

MuddinJeeper
July 10th, 2006, 09:07
are you installing the OEM trackbar as a replacement or are you getting a longer one to compliment a lift? if its just the OEM bar, then its a straight swap and all you have to do is drive up the ramps. If its a longer or adjustable its going to need to be up on jack stands.

little red cheroke
July 10th, 2006, 09:13
donno if your supposed to do this or not but when i installed my adjustable i just took the old one off, then turned the steering wheel untill the axle was center, locked the steering wheel, and put on the track bar.

davehoose
July 10th, 2006, 22:16
are you installing the OEM trackbar as a replacement or are you getting a longer one to compliment a lift? if its just the OEM bar, then its a straight swap and all you have to do is drive up the ramps. If its a longer or adjustable its going to need to be up on jack stands.

It's an OEM replacement from autozoo. I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks for the input/advice

Menzenski
July 10th, 2006, 23:03
You'll want to tighten the trackbar bolts when the weight of the Jeep is on the wheels (i.e., at ride height).

davehoose
July 11th, 2006, 23:52
You'll want to tighten the trackbar bolts when the weight of the Jeep is on the wheels (i.e., at ride height).
So you are saying, put the trackbar on, drive off the ramps and than tighten them the rest of the way. Can I just use my regular sockets to do this or a tortion bar?
thanks,
davehoose or
davehoose@yahoo.com

Rick Anderson
July 12th, 2006, 06:03
Any rubber/urethane bushings you want to torque them down when they are at their natural center. The bushing is designed to flex back and forth as the parts rotate, and it only flexes so far before it will tear.

If you torque a bushing down with the vehicle jacked up and the suspension just hanging, then you torque the bushing down at one extreme. It will be at max flex when you load of the suspension and rotate the suspension parts to their normal position, (where the bushing should be at little flex) then when you go over a bump and rotate the suspension parts the opposite direction than when it was hanging off the frame, which flexes the bushing even farther than it was designed.

Attach all the points, but don't torque them down until you have the car resting like it was parked in the parking lot (that includes steering wheel centered).

I would use a torque wrench if you have it.