kenny schmitt said:
Ok dont hammer me but am i dreaming? I got a 96 2dr 5 spd with a 2" and 31's i just snapped 2 leafs on my right so my RR saggs so bad i cant drive. now im going bigger. This is what i was thinkin........ 6.5" rustys, SYE, 35x13.5 on 15x8's (can i use stock rims 4 now) i wanna do the gears later(is first gear gonna be to hard to start?) will these tires fit with a 6.5 or do i need to cut should i settle with smaller i think i got the B4 buying jitters
There is quite a bit to a 6.5" lift that one needs to consider beyond some tall springs, longer shocks, and an SYE. Steering issues, track bar issues, control arm angles, longer bumpstops, motor mount issues, axle strength, gearing, and braking all need to be thought out to do it right.
You will not be able to run 35x13.5's on stock rims. Stock rims are 8" wide. 35x12.5's need at least 8.5" rims according to tire people, let alone the wider 13.5"s. Your backspacing will also be off so far that your tires will rub badly.
You’re in luck with the '96 in that you should already have the dual diaphragm booster on the brakes, but at 35" tires one should consider rear disks to help reduce stopping distance.
You should also have an 8.25 rear end that will put up with 35"s better than a D35, but if you drive hard I would recommend alloy axles. The D30 up front will hold up to good wheeling technique on moderate trails with alloy axles and 760 joints, but if you run heavy on the little pedal I would consider upgrading.
Trackbar and steering is an individual choice, but to see the best on and off road you will want to go to a better set up on the trackbar and draglink/tierod. The stock steering box will be hard pressed to live up to the 35's as well. Brace the box and frame behind the steering box for greater reliability.
If you like a decent ride in addition to the required new control arms, you will want to reduce your control arm angles. One can do this with properly braced drop brackets, a long arm set up, or raising the arms up at the axle end.
I would also recommend the use of stronger than stock motor mounts because of the increased effort the driveline will experience just getting down the road.
As has been mentioned, your clutch will take an early grave with stock gearing on 35's. You should plan on regearing very soon.
Without significant trimming you won't get 13.5" wide 35's to flex very well in the front. I run 35x12.5's on ~7.5" and still had to trim a bunch when I bumped up from the 33's.
Oh, your spare will no longer fit inside, so figure on a new rear bumper and carrier.
My recommendation would be to go 5.5” and 33’s if you want to do a bit at a time. It will still be a very capable trail rig and do well on the road as well.
I actually miss my old OME and 30” tire set up sometimes. It rode better than stock and out did TJ’s running 33” tires. It was a real sleeper.
Bones :skull1:
The way it was: Wheeling with the guys from Tomken circa 1999:
The way it is: same spot circa 2004: