Upper Quarter Panel Suggestions

Im found a machine shop that would plasma cut my quarter panel for me. I will be using 3/16 steel , is that good enough for some protection, I have some miner dents and dings on the right side. that im also trying to cover up.

heres a pic of my quarter panel, do you think thats good? or should I modify it a bit? maybe stretch it all the way forward where the door ends? What you guys think?

CLICK HERE

Personally, I think 3/16 is to thick. I'd consider 10 ga (about an 1/8 thick). But I don't have the whole story. What are you protecting the quarters from?

Yeah, Vug is probably right Karmir. 3/16" is definately overkill. 10 ga. (actually 1/10") would be suitable and 1/8" would work also. 3/16" would be heavy, and would probably mash the panels it was welded to before it bent much.

BTW- The quarter panel is curved slightly. This will make creating the bend for the tail light area very difficult. I might recommend making it fit on the side of the Jeep only and not wrap around the back. Just my 2 cents...

Jared

Vug said:

But I don't have the whole story. What are you protecting the quarters from? [/B]

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ROCKS!

but seriously, I have run into slight rocks before, I wheel with a friend of mine that mashed his panel in. screwed up the filler opening, so Im trying to prevent this as much as I could.
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yes I held a slab of 3/16 steel about the size of that panel, probably ways close to about 40lb -50lb. I suppose I could go with 1/8...

I relize that the side does have some curve to hit. what will be the best way to attach this? I was originally thinking of riveting the crap out of it with some big rivets. then again I could always weld it?? would the 1/8 'flat'panel after being attached take the shape of the slight curve of the sheetmetal or will the sheetmetal just bond with the panel and be 'flat' together

1/8" will most likely curve to match the shape of the Jeep. That is, provided you leave enough of the original sheet metal to attach it to. Leave something to attach it to around the whole perimeter of the new material. Rivets are a pain in the butt to hide when doing the body work. Have the shop MIG weld the panel to the body all the way around. A continuous weld is not necessary, just weld an inch, leave an inch, or something similar. Use a seam sealer, available at automotive paint stores, to seal it up.

Then either body work it, or paint it.

The new sheet metal won't take the shape of the quarter panel after you put a bend in it, only when it is still a flat piece of steel...

Jared

DeadEyeJ said:

The new sheet metal won't take the shape of the quarter panel after you put a bend in it, only when it is still a flat piece of steel...

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I dont get it can you explain?

Sorry, that was pretty vague. I am again referring to the bend where the metal would wrap around the tail light area. This bend (if you make one) would make the new piece vertically rigid, you could no longer bend the sheet vertically. Vertically would be like this (.

If you don't wrap around the back, under the tail light, the sheet would be easy to bend mildly to match the curve of the quarter panel.

Jared

you think this is overkill?

CLICK HERE

I used 12 ga. on mine. They've held up real well & have taken a beating.

Matt

DeadEyeJ said:

10 ga. (actually 1/10") would be suitable and 1/8" would work also.

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:lecture:

Actually, 10 ga is .134". Closer to 1/8" (.125) than 1/10" (.100)

See link....
http://www.engineersedge.com/gauge.htm

FarmerMatt's 12 ga is .105 or about 1/10"

Ya, I used 12Ga. as well for mine...

...and it conformed to the slight contour of the XJ flanks nicely. I used 1/4" stainless bolts and nylok nuts to fasten them.

Jes