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Inner Disco axle

B

boise49ers

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Boise,Idaho
I would like to get a stronger inner axle for my Dana 30 dis-connect. (27 sline) I need the one that goes from the carrier to the shift fork.Not sure if it has its own name or what. I'd like a stronger one or maybe even a Chromo if you can just pick that one axle up as opposed to all 3 pieces. Do they sell just the inner axle by itself ? Any links would be helpful. Thanks :eyes:
 
That axle isn't the weak link in the setup, your not likely to break it .. the shift assembly itself sucks, as do the 260 joints at the axle. Your only upgrade is to put YJ shafts in, but that leaves that inner shaft the same, and its really a next to worthless upgrade (297 joints but still weak)

If you want to go with any type of strong CrMo setup, you will have to go to solid shafts.
 
Yes, run a 1 piece shaft or just get a Posi-Lok or other sort of device to keep the shift fork in place. The vacuum disconnect system is horrible.
 
I feel your pain. I'm finding that intermediate shaft to be the weak link on my Dana 30. I broke it twice last season...both times right at the splines.

I haven't found a stronger replacement to that specific shaft yet...thankfully spares are cheap....but changing it out on the trail is a real PITA.
 
Ryan (cheapXJ) is the only person I know to have ever broken one of those. This was in his MJ on 33's, with a D35 rear, full throttle assault. He was quite disappointed when that was the only thing that broke.
 
cal said:
That axle isn't the weak link in the setup, your not likely to break it .. the shift assembly itself sucks, as do the 260 joints at the axle. Your only upgrade is to put YJ shafts in, but that leaves that inner shaft the same, and its really a next to worthless upgrade (297 joints but still weak)

If you want to go with any type of strong CrMo setup, you will have to go to solid shafts.
Click to expand...

Funny you say that , because that is what I'm doing and I thought that axle would be my weak point. A little bigger u-joints can't hurt. They were free.
Thanks
 
cal said:
That axle isn't the weak link in the setup, your not likely to break it .. the shift assembly itself sucks, as do the 260 joints at the axle. Your only upgrade is to put YJ shafts in, but that leaves that inner shaft the same, and its really a next to worthless upgrade (297 joints but still weak)

If you want to go with any type of strong CrMo setup, you will have to go to solid shafts.
Click to expand...

The only thing in my Disco'd 30 I have ever broke was a 260 U-joint. I did this "Next to worthless" 8>) upgrade just to get the bigger U-joints. I have the Posi Lock and I like this set up. I just like to be able to "unlock my front end". So far, it has worked for me... although I am a pretty conservative driver...
 
If you read the original post, he's not asking about bigger u-joints, he's asking about upgrading the mid shaft..

which would in fact make going to yj shafts next to worthless.
 
cal said:
If you read the original post, he's not asking about bigger u-joints, he's asking about upgrading the mid shaft..

which would in fact make going to yj shafts next to worthless.
Click to expand...

Your right, but when you said "next to worthless" it really hurt my feelings, and I just needed to express my thoughts on the matter!
 
;) I'll confess that I didn't take your feelings into consideration. Sorry. Have a cookie. On me. ;)
 
Would it not then be a good upgrade to get a 1 piece alloy shaft for the passenger side? Even upgrade the driver side at the same time while you're down there...
 
It would be a very good upgrade. You'd have to pop the shift collar and moter out, and put a new axle seal in (best is to pop the carrier out and put it there). It's a very common upgrade. Alloy-USA offers the seal and a block off plate for the shift motor with their alloy shafts.
 
Unless of course you like your Dis-connect. Posi-Lock makes it useful. I get no popping when out of 4 wheel drive and can unhook it when it is in a binded spot (sometimes), depending on how tight it is. How many people do you know break the shafts at the collar ? I know of none and the shift fork isn't an issue once you upgrade to steel as I have. If you know of another reason I'm glad to listen though. I'm a creature of habit and like the posi lock set up where I can take it out when I feel I need to. Tight turns it really helps too as long as it isn't icey.
Cal you seem to know a lot about the set up, so I'll ask you this also, I have the hubs that came with th YJ axles , but the bearngs are corroded. My XJ hubs and bearing should fit right on the YJ shafts shouldn't they ? They are fairly new. Thanks
 
Last edited:
XJ unit bearings should work perfect with the YJ shafts.

There are many types of unit bearings out there that bolt up. You can use any XJ or TJ unit bearing, but the bearings are not all the same thickness, so you need to use a rotor that matches your unit bearings. WJ unit bearings will bolt up, but are not the same, and its not worth the work to try and fit them outside of some very particular circumstance.

I dont know people who break the *shaft* at the shift collar, but I have seen the shift collar *itself* break several times. I carry a spare, even though I have a non disconnect dana 30 with 30 spline shafts .. I've seen too many others stuck with a broken shift collar in the past.. (talking about the splined round part, not the fork).
 
cal said:
XJ unit bearings should work perfect with the YJ shafts.

There are many types of unit bearings out there that bolt up. You can use any XJ or TJ unit bearing, but the bearings are not all the same thickness, so you need to use a rotor that matches your unit bearings. WJ unit bearings will bolt up, but are not the same, and its not worth the work to try and fit them outside of some very particular circumstance.

I dont know people who break the *shaft* at the shift collar, but I have seen the shift collar *itself* break several times. I carry a spare, even though I have a non disconnect dana 30 with 30 spline shafts .. I've seen too many others stuck with a broken shift collar in the past.. (talking about the splined round part, not the fork).
Click to expand...
Right ! The Collar/Donut. I willl definetly pick a spare up. I have done quite a bit of Rock Crawling, but I have just resently jumped from 34 LTBs to 35 BFGs. They friggin look 2 inches taller then the LTBs. Thanks !
 
Did you get a replacement warantee on the tires? If not run out and get one now! A lot of tire stores will sell them on used tires that have 'most' tread.

You need it with BFG's. As me know I know. ;)
 
cal said:
Did you get a replacement warantee on the tires? If not run out and get one now! A lot of tire stores will sell them on used tires that have 'most' tread.

You need it with BFG's. As me know I know. ;)
Click to expand...
I'm not sure I know what you are talking about. I bought them used with about 95% tread. I'm replacing a couple though because of one with a slow leak I can't seal and one has 2 lugs totally torn off. They were fairly cheap and the other 2 were worth it.
 
The sidewalls are very thin, and they go flat easily. I had 5 new bfg's on my jeep, before I wore them down 20% all 5 had plugs in the sidewalls. I run MT/R's now for that reason.

Go to like an america's tire store or Discount tire, they will sell a replacement warantee on used tires for $25 each, well worth it.
 
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