Another SYE hack-n-tap option

I found another cheap hack n tap option for those who are looking for an easy upgrade. www.driveshaftsuperstore.com sent me a new yoke for $99.00 plus shipping. Here is a pic installed.



Install was pretty easy, it even came with instructions.

Pros- Used a front shaft with no extra adapter, front and rear shafts are the same
On 96 and older, it uses the original seal, so it is cheaper than the RE kit, and you don't cut the shaft, just drill it for a mounting bolt
Very easy install

Cons- more expensive than RE for newer XJ's (unless you add the cost of a flange adapter)
On older cases, you need a torch to heat the end end of the shaft to remove the heat treat
Doesn't come with drill and tap for enclosed 3/8 bolt
You still have a stock output shaft

I know, the PORK kit is only $70.00 more, but for some of us, it's worth the money saved. And it is a lot easier to install. If I had a big lift and huge tires I may have gone with a HD kit, but so far I'm happy with it.

Also, for what it's worth, I used a front shaft from a 97 ZJ with a V-8, I had to shorten it 2.5 inches.

sgtmack said:

On older cases, you need a torch to heat the end end of the shaft to remove the heat treat
Doesn't come with drill and tap for enclosed 3/8 bolt
You still have a stock output shaft

Click to expand...

Three things there bother me.

1)There is a reason metal is heat treated, why would you want to eliminate that?

2) The most expensive tool to install this is not included.

3) You have a shorter DS still along with a steeper U-joint angle. This is the main reason for doing the SYE, to reduce the DS angle, thus reducing vibrations.

I don't know, maybe it's me............

i got the longer yoke from rubicon express, and also got the t-case drop for my cherokee, and i have no driveshaft vibrations at all, and im not using a front d-shaft in the rear...

Sorry Sgt., but that is not new.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80289

I realize that you have a 231, but others have used their yokes. I also realize this is done and it probably will suit you fine, but this is not a recommended way of doing this.

You need to cut the shaft to make the angles smaller. Also, by doing that you make a shorter lever. You have just hung a heavy cardin joint at the end of a long shaft. I believe this is why I have vibes from mine, but I can't prove it. This increases the chance of breaking your output shaft. RE cuts the shaft and gives you a new seal for a reason.

Also, you then paid to have a shaft shortened. If it was a shaft from an auto, you could have used one from a standard as is.

Again, this might suit you fine. I'm all for doing things yourself. However, I would try to steer others away from doing this, this way. If anything, use the yoke, cut the shaft to the right length, and get the right seal to fit for the yoke, and don't shorten the shaft. Just my .02. Sorry if I offend.

Oh ya. Why would you want to remove the heat treat? With a HnT, you cut the end off, and drill a hole in the softer center. The splines still have their hardening. You have removed the hardening so you can drill your hole, but now you have soft splines. Again, sorry, but you have not retained a stock output shaft.

Sorry, I wasn't very clear on the install. It installs just like the RE kit. I cut 1 3/4 inches off the shaft, so it is the same length as on an RE kit. I had to shorten the ZJ shaft because it was 2.5 inches longer than the front shaft on mine.If I had another xj shaft, it would have been the right length. And I shortened it myself, because the shaft was free.

The reason you need to remove the heat treat on older cases is you don't cut the shaft, so you can't drill the end unless you heat the very end of the shaft. I don't know how long of a shaft the older one needs, I don't have one to compare to.

I realize this mod isn't for everyone, but I compared to the RE kit, It made sense. I don't need to modify a front shaft with an adapter, and I saved enough off the PORC kit to fix my steering.

I also have a 3/8 tap and a set of drill bits in my tool box, so if you have a decent set of tools, it's a pretty cheap mod.

As I said, it's not for everyone, but I'm happy with it.

Whats the part # for that yoke?
Does it simply have a hole in it that you run a bolt through to bolt it to the shaft?
Ive already got an RE H&T that someone donated to my project, I already have the adaptor flange and a front DS that ready to go on, but I would be willing to sell off the H&T and adaptor flange to run identical DSs front and rear.

sgtmack said:

Sorry, I wasn't very clear on the install. It installs just like the RE kit. I cut 1 3/4 inches off the shaft, so it is the same length as on an RE kit. I had to shorten the ZJ shaft because it was 2.5 inches longer than the front shaft on mine.If I had another xj shaft, it would have been the right length. And I shortened it myself, because the shaft was free.

The reason you need to remove the heat treat on older cases is you don't cut the shaft, so you can't drill the end unless you heat the very end of the shaft. I don't know how long of a shaft the older one needs, I don't have one to compare to.

I realize this mod isn't for everyone, but I compared to the RE kit, It made sense. I don't need to modify a front shaft with an adapter, and I saved enough off the PORC kit to fix my steering.

I also have a 3/8 tap and a set of drill bits in my tool box, so if you have a decent set of tools, it's a pretty cheap mod.

As I said, it's not for everyone, but I'm happy with it.

Click to expand...

O.K. that makes a bit more sense. I'm glad you cleared that up. I like my setup too. The HD one from PORC is so cheap it is almost a no brainer, but with your setup you should be fine.

I was broke at the time and was very happy with my setup. If I had to do it over (and had the money of course) I would get the Tom Woods modified output and DS. But that is ONLY for a late model 242 If all you are going to do it a hack and tap, I like the yokes better than RE HnT and the spicer adapter.

Ray, I just called them and told them I needed a 231 SYE flange. It came with a grade 8 bolt and instructions. The only hard part is drilling and tapping a hole in the output shaft. Just take your time, and tap the hole square to the shaft. If yours is 97+ the drive shafts are the same. That is the main reason I did this instead of the RE kit. If yours is older, I don't know how long of a shaft you'll need.

I bought my XJ new in 2000.I lifted it about 2 months later and of course got bad vibes,so I decided to get this kit since he's local here.It helped alot but wasnt perfect so I installed the HD JB Conversions kit(6 years later and still sweet).Anyway the only thing we could figure out was that since that kit uses a yoke thats meant for a "slip" application was that the looseness in the splines still allowed movement!

RCP Phx said:

I bought my XJ new in 2000.I lifted it about 2 months later and of course got bad vibes,so I decided to get this kit since he's local here.It helped alot but wasnt perfect so I installed the HD JB Conversions kit(6 years later and still sweet).Anyway the only thing we could figure out was that since that kit uses a yoke thats meant for a "slip" application was that the looseness in the splines still allowed movement!

Click to expand...

Are you saying you talked to the Drivetrain superstore guy and both of you think the splines are loose? Mine is pretty solid with almost no play. I know that is a relative term. I don't know what clearance on the yoke would be compared to say a pinion yoke.

I have vibes on mine and can't figure out where. I have gone over everything. My only guess would be actual runout from heavy joint actually causing flex in my output shaft. However, this would be the same for a RE HnT since they are the same length.

Powerman said:

Are you saying you talked to the Drivetrain superstore guy and both of you think the splines are loose? Mine is pretty solid with almost no play. I know that is a relative term. I don't know what clearance on the yoke would be compared to say a pinion yoke.

I have vibes on mine and can't figure out where. I have gone over everything. My only guess would be actual runout from heavy joint actually causing flex in my output shaft. However, this would be the same for a RE HnT since they are the same length.

Click to expand...

YES,Oscar is right here in Phoenix.A bolt on yoke fits really tight,sometimes to the point of having to pound it on!