what you think!?!?

hello my jeepers!!:rof: im new and you all have prolly heard this ok..... her it goes.....

setup right now spacer up front blocks in for 3 inch lift sittin on 32 BFG mudders with bushwacker cut outs

now i want to do 6 1/2 rock crawler with 35's what axels do i need? i live in oregon and i plan on wheeling it pretty hard and its my DD

Do a search on the topic, You will find lots of info here.

Welcome too!

ok so i did i'm thinkin D44 front and read with 4:88's or a D30 and D44 with 4:56?? with maybe the ARB air lockers front and rear cuz its a DD would a D30 hold up to a 35 wheelin it hard???? or is it :explosion

skaterking09 said:

setup right now spacer up front blocks in for 3 inch lift sittin on 32 BFG mudders with bushwacker cut outs

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Dang, your flares cost more than your lift! :rof:

I agree on searching, also read the axle stickies and FAQ section. There is much debate on this subject, many say a 30 will hold and the 44 isn't worth the money to swap, but there are some who whouldn't have it any other way. Just keep in mind how hard you drive, and in what terrain. Of course budget plays the biggest factor of all.

how much are you willing to spend on this thing? and how much work you willing to put in to make it functional on and offroad..

help will be easier after this

well i mean ya i know swaping a D44 in the rear would be wat about 2500-3000??? and building up the D30 in the fron is about 1200-1500 i thikn im just guessing and hope its not more your guys input???

and yes the cut out flares where more then the lift :banghead: but o well i just wanted some bigger one but i have a 200 sport so is the a D35 in the rear or 8.25 and i know a 8.25 is strong the the D35 right?? so would the 8.25 work with 35's??

and thank for the help!!

skaterking09 said:

well i mean ya i know swaping a D44 in the rear would be wat about 2500-3000??? and building up the D30 in the fron is about 1200-1500 i thikn im just guessing and hope its not more your guys input???

and yes the cut out flares where more then the lift :banghead: but o well i just wanted some bigger one but i have a 200 sport so is the a D35 in the rear or 8.25 and i know a 8.25 is strong the the D35 right?? so would the 8.25 work with 35's??

and thank for the help!!

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1) you are more concerned with cost/strenght of the axle then instead of the lift, so i'm going to ASSUME that you either know what you are doing and money isn't an issue.

2) $2,500-3,000 for a rear axle??? now you've confirmed that money isn't an issue. in which case you should do a front and rear Dana60.


ok..a little more realistically.....before you worry about your axles, make sure you get the lift done properly. somehow i have a feeling that you are overlooking ALOT of stuff for 6.5" to be installed right.

when you do start worrying about your axles, this is the order i would recommend.

1) figure out what you have right now.
2) if you have a chrysler 8.25 in the rear, then upgrade the front axle to a D44 if you planning on running 35 or larger and worry about the rear axle second.
3) if you have a dana35 in the rear, then upgrade the rear axle first to a dana44, ford 8.8 or something else, and then upgrade the front axle after that.........or at the same time if you have the money.

alright after looking high and low on this wonderful site :loveu: i found wat im gunna run..

get the rock crawer lift 6 1/2

run the 35

then run the 8.25 but upgrade the shaft and no locker till i can upgrade to the 44

then the 30 up front with a air locker so i use it when i need it i think it will hold for a bit then when i blow that up upgrade to a 44

run 4:56 gears

does the rock crawler lift come with EVERYTHING to address a lift of that height??? got a link to what you're looking at???

why would you go from the 35 to a 8.25 when you could just go straight to the 44??? or were you thinking that because it's easier/cheaper to find a 8.25??? if you can i would go straight to a 44 or a 8.8, cuz you can get more gearing and locker options. 4.56 would be good for 35's, but 4.88 would be even nicer.

im so sorry i ment im gunna run 35's on the 8.25 not go from a D35 to a 8.25


the site im looking at is rockkrawler.com and ya i gotta get the drive shaft and SYE and it says it will score 988 on the RTI ramp dont know anything about that but sounds pretty good

looks like an ok kit. personally i would get a longarm setup that comes with it's supporting crossmember, but that's just my preference.

the kit also doesn't come with shocks, so you'll have to add another $200ish for that. another $400-500ish for the SYE+driveshaft, and i would also recommend upgrading the steering to accomodate that much lift.

then you have to add the cost of wheels and tires to that, plus the cost of the gears, lockers and master install kits.

then there is the question of who is going to do all the work. are you doing all this??? otherwise you'll have to find a good quality and very reputable welder to weld the brackets for you. plus the overall labor of installing that lift, and then another $300-500 PER AXLE to get the gears/lockers installed. so basically you are looking at another $3,000+/- in addition to what the lift kit costs. just figured i'd throw out some stuff that you might have overlooked.

skaterking09 said:

im so sorry i ment im gunna run 35's on the 8.25 not go from a D35 to a 8.25


the site im looking at is rockkrawler.com and ya i gotta get the drive shaft and SYE and it says it will score 988 on the RTI ramp dont know anything about that but sounds pretty good

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What year is your XJ? It might have the larger 8.25 shafts. The 8.25 with 29 spline alloy shafts has held up well to 35" tires, so you probably don't need to do anything there. It wouldn't be worth the money and effort to upgrade from that to a D44. One thing to think about is not spending the money to do gears and a locker on an axle you're not going to keep. Either spend the money to upgrade the 8.25 or buy a D44 or 8.8 right now and do the upgrades on it.....you only need to do it once. If you compare the cost of buying an 8.8, which comes with good shafts and disc brakes, over the cost of buying alloy shafts for the 8.25, it might not be much of a difference. Same goes with a D44, which comes with larger drum brakes.

The D30 will hold up with 35's if you don't go crazy on driving style, but you do have to spend some money on it. One thing is that you can always sell it to help fund an upgrade to a bigger axle later on. Keep in mind that the weakness is the axle joints and axle yokes, so chromo shafts are important whether you keep the D30 or upgrade to a D44.

The 4.56's won't be deep enough for the 35's, you won't like that ratio. Consensus is 4.88's or 5.13's with 35's. If you have an HO motor and it's a DD, probably the 4.88's are the best choice, but many of us are happy with our 5.13's.

Have fun,

you are right about that. problem with the 4.88 is that they won't fit in a 8.25. that's why i was recommending he try to upgrade so he can get to 4.88 gearing. and if he wants 5.13's, then he'll have to upgrade the front to a d44 also.

its a 2000 cherokee sport and i have made my mind up upgrade to the d44 in the rear and do some 4:88 and the front build it up and then when i do want to upgrade i can sell the D30 thanks for the input ill be posting some pics of what she looks like now tomorrow

HOLLY SHIT......you're gonna have the axle swap and gearing done tomorrow??? man i wish i could get parts that fast. lol

haha no no im not santa ill be posting just some big of wat it looks like right i have a enough money for the lift and tires now i just goota save up for the gears and axel swap i should i just save up and do a D44 front and rear and then be done with it???

skaterking09 said:

its a 2000 cherokee sport

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Your front will most likely be a LP30, they really aren't worth building (if any 30 really is) due to the ring gear weakness. You should be able to find a HP30 pretty darn cheap though.