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how did you mount your rocksliders? pics

W

whitetrashxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
b.c canada
noticed that there are lots of xj`s on here with rocksliders, i made some up a while ago but could never figure out how to bolt them on, i dont want to weld them on cause...well its a unibody.. could anyone post some pics of the underside of there rocksliders so i can get a idea of how do do it?


thanks
nick
 
heres mine
100_0333.jpg

100_0332.jpg
 
I built my own and I sliced the rocker panels back past the pinch seam. I will see if I can get some pix up tomorrow if it isn't snowing......again.

This is a crapy pix but you can see how much clearance on the sides that you gain.

newrig.jpg
 
old_man said:
I built my own and I sliced the rocker panels back past the pinch seam. I will see if I can get some pix up tomorrow if it isn't snowing......again.

This is a crapy pix but you can see how much clearance on the sides that you gain.

newrig.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks good, got any close up pics?
 
You guys are going to croak when you find out how I mounted my rails. The semi-standard part is that there are multiple .5x1.5 solid bars going back to the sleeved frame, but he kicker is that it is held up in place with pop rivets.

There are about 50 steel/steel pop rivets in the door jambs and inner floor rails on each side. It was easier and cleaner than drilling and plug welding. A correctly placed and crimped rivet of the type I use has a 1200 lb yield strength and a 1450 lb shear strength each. They are hard enough to install that I use a pneumatic clencher. With this setup, I figure I can grind off the heads if I ever want to salvage them from the vehicle. If they get ripped off, welding would not have helped and I figure the rig is fubar'd anyway.
 
old_man said:
You guys are going to croak when you find out how I mounted my rails. The semi-standard part is that there are multiple .5x1.5 solid bars going back to the sleeved frame, but he kicker is that it is held up in place with pop rivets.

There are about 50 steel/steel pop rivets in the door jambs and inner floor rails on each side. It was easier and cleaner than drilling and plug welding. A correctly placed and crimped rivet of the type I use has a 1200 lb yield strength and a 1450 lb shear strength each. They are hard enough to install that I use a pneumatic clencher. With this setup, I figure I can grind off the heads if I ever want to salvage them from the vehicle. If they get ripped off, welding would not have helped and I figure the rig is fubar'd anyway.
Click to expand...
I don't have a problem with that at all. Even after measuring five times and cutting/welding once, my legs ended up about 1/16" shy of meeting the framerail. Whatever. I still have five pinch-seam bolts per side, and I've jacked up the whole deal on each side numerous times. I think it's an awesome idea. Where did you get the rivets/do they go by a special name? I've never heard of rivets with such strength.
 
Mine is a MJ, so its a bit different, but I think still useful.

There is nothing wrong with welding to the "frame". You just have to be smart about it. I took pieces of 3" heavy angle iron and welded that to the "frame" then welded my rails to that. in the very front and rear I used the LCA bracket and leaf spring mount.

Passunderside.jpg

Passsideunderview.jpg


Driverssiderear.jpg

Passsiderear.jpg


Driversside.jpg


Then I ran a piece of .75 sq tube along the pinch seam and welded taht to the standoffs and bolted to the pinch seam.

Pinchseam.jpg
 
That is a super nice job on the MJ. Sorry if, the comment is coming a lowly newbie but, I am impressed. I am waiting on warm weather to install my "store bought" ones :compwork:
 
Longshots tubular set up is solidly joined to the unibody frame but what is the tube's thickness? Is it filled with concrete? If the tube wall is thinner than 3/16ths then I can't see it supporting the weight of the xj pivoting off a chunk of granite. I am fabbing up sliders based on JCR Rocksliders2 for their metal strength and area of coverage. Check out their website for some excellent underbody photos of how their units attach to the unibody.
 
I can't speak for CW, but IIRC that's 1.5 sch40 pipe. Which would mean it has about a .150~ wall and 1.92~ OD. They will easily support the weight of the truck (you can jack of the stock rockers if you know what you're doing) but a really hard hit could dent them quite possibly. However that stuff is pretty tough, I've seen exos made from it go end over 2-4 times and not be damaged.


I don't think he hammers on that truck though.
 
Your right on all counts Dirty.
It is in fact poop pipe sch40, and it is hollow,nothing sans air inside. Haven't herd of filling with concrete??? Its one of my favorites for this kind of stuff. I COULD have used sch80, but as Dirty says, its just fine with sch40 stuff.

CW
 
dscn09459wj.jpg


dscn0947ro5.jpg
 
I use (7) 5/16" bolts for the pinch seam, and (4) 7/16" bolts that go through the unibody, per side.

100_2682.jpg

100_2680.jpg

100_2678.jpg

100_2665.jpg
 
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