• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Glorified Tack Weld.

D

DirtyMJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Prince George, BC
This is something I never thought I'd ask. But, I have a 110V/135A mig which I use only for sheetmetal. I'm actually just running flux core with it right now. Too cheap to rent a bottle thing.

Everything I weld that is structeral I do with an AC/DC 225/150A stick.


Anyways, with proper bevelling can I do structeral welds with the wimpy mig? We're talking maybe .140 wall at the most...


Edit: Why'd I ask this here? Ohwell, close enough.
 
Well, that's interesting. I always assumed it was a POS.


Leave it flux or buy some gas? I'm used to chipping slag...


And as a general wire feed question... How influencing on the weld is the size of the wire? Is it really just the option of a greater fill rate?


The only reason I'm considering using this thing is that I've got a bunch of tight space work and the stick is proving to be hard to get into the right position for it.
 
flux burns hotter than with gas, but the spatter and slag is worse. the thicknesses I mentioned are with flux-core. if you're only doing .140 you'll still get plenty of penetration with gas, and cleanup will be easier. there should be a chart inside the lid of the welder that gives settings for different thicknesses, wire sizes, and gas or flux.

all this is assuming you've got a 135 from Miller, Lincoln or Hobart, I've tried a Harbor Freight model (chicago electric?) and I wouldn't even use it for tack welds.
 
Maybe I had better go look at this gem a bit more. I think I even have a manual for it. Unfortunatly it is probably in italian.


It's an import, like I said, italian. Quality is somewhat questionable - but it's no harbour freight. I should probably just go at different thicknesses of scrap and see what happens.
 
Depends on the welder, I think. The Hobart 135 is a nice little unit, whereas I wouldn't trust a Craftsman 110 to do exhaust.

But I'll echo Brett's comment about the 0.24 with prep.
 
Gaius said:
Depends on the welder, I think. The Hobart 135 is a nice little unit, whereas I wouldn't trust a Craftsman 110 to do exhaust.

But I'll echo Brett's comment about the 0.24 with prep.
Click to expand...

I sold my Hobart when I picked up my Snapon FM140A. with using co2 as shielding gas I can burn a hole through 3/8" steel easily. 110% duty cycle at 140A also is nice lol

Ive done lots of structural stuff with the 110 welder

use the smallest diameter flux core your machine will take. will help keep the heat up on the welds also
 
txjeep103 said:
i want to learn how to weld!!! you people suck.
Click to expand...

I took a couple of classes at the local community college. Best money Ive ever spent. I may not do the prettiest welds but I know I have good penetration.
 
xjnation said:
I took a couple of classes at the local community college. Best money Ive ever spent. I may not do the prettiest welds but I know I have good penetration.
Click to expand...
That's what counts, in general people put too much stock in how nice a weld looks when in fact it could be a real stinker. Couple months ago I rewelded a guy's project, nearly every single weld had to be ground down and redone. Looking at it they were the nice stack of dimes type welds, continuous bead with a slight undercut but absolutely no penetration in the root.
 
I have the Lincoln 135a 120v unit and I am currently using it building my front bumper out of .25" steel with the flux-core wire. I am by no means an expert welder, but I am finally starting to be able to make consistent "pretty" welds that are strong. My buddy uses the Miller in the same size with the gas and he has alot more experience welding than I do, he says mine with the hotter burning flux-core gets better penetration on thicker metal. I do bevel the edges quite a bit when welding the thicker stuff.
 
TXRIVERRAT said:
I have the Lincoln 135a 120v unit and I am currently using it building my front bumper out of .25" steel with the flux-core wire. I am by no means an expert welder, but I am finally starting to be able to make consistent "pretty" welds that are strong. My buddy uses the Miller in the same size with the gas and he has alot more experience welding than I do, he says mine with the hotter burning flux-core gets better penetration on thicker metal. I do bevel the edges quite a bit when welding the thicker stuff.
Click to expand...

The first time I ever welded was with a big 440V stick welder, In Lake Havasu City, AZ in August (120* + temps), lying under the bucket of a 18 ton case loader filling in a 1" gap between a new cutting edge and the bucket...........overhead. back in 1978

Kinda turned me off on welding till a few years ago
 
xjnation said:
use the smallest diameter flux core your machine will take. will help keep the heat up on the welds also
Click to expand...

Although a friend uses 0.030 gas wire with 100% Co2. It seems to burn plenty hot and put out almost as nice of welds as 75/25.

I have a Lincoln 175 myself. :D
 
Gaius said:
Although a friend uses 0.030 gas wire with 100% Co2. It seems to burn plenty hot and put out almost as nice of welds as 75/25.

I have a Lincoln 175 myself. :D
Click to expand...


and duty cycle of 40% Lincoln

co2 is nice cuz you can crank it up if welding outside in the wind.....
 
Last edited:
DirtyMJ said:
Anyways, with proper bevelling can I do structeral welds with the wimpy
Click to expand...

No sweat, the only issue you might run into is duty cycle if you have long beads to run. And that really only matters if you're getting paid by the hour to do it.

Lots of people look down on the little 110v 135s, but if you got time, you can do lots, and if you have a good-sized generator, you can do lots anywhere you want.
 
I run the Tractor Supply Farm hand brand mig welder. 115a 110v, and just run Flux core. for a welder only costing $275 new, it has been a great welder, i run .040 flux core wire through there even though that is bigger than the welder says can go, i have no problems and jacked up on the high heat setting, i can put some nice 3/16 together with great penitration.

However, if it is more than just for looks, i have the Lincoln 225ac stick welder right there handy too. Not as pretty due to my unsteady hand, but does get the job done.

I learned to weld the hardway, my father owned a one man welding shop in a farming town when i was a kid. I was making it almost a 2 man shop before i was in jr high.
 
I have the Hobart 140. It is my first set-up and but I have used others, the key to learning is to use it and just burn up scrap. That and my brother is certified so that helps. I'm not ready to build bumpers or making pretty beads but I am getting better. I know a lot of people have bad opinons of 110vt but I like mine.
 
Since this may turn into a 110 versus 220, I'll just say if you have a 220v plug/access, get a 220. But if you are careful in your prep, and only have a 110 plug, a quality 110v welder will do most anything building a Jeep.

Personally, my skills aren't as developed, so I wouldn't be comfortable welding main structural items with a 110. Although I can lay a pretty bead. :D:D:D
 
so how do you guys check what kind of penetration you get?

I'm welding my axle brackets with a hobart 140 amp mig running .030 wire. I just crank up the heat and burn a big slow bead. They look nice, but now Im afraid my brackets will crack off after reading this.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Replacing steering, front axle and parts of suspension
Replies
6
Views
1K
wsxjeep
W
G
dudes buying welders
2
Replies
23
Views
902
Hypoid
Hypoid
Vanimal
what do you think of this control arm bracket design?
2 3
Replies
46
Views
6K
Vanimal
Vanimal
Jeep450r
How do my welds look?
Replies
9
Views
960
53guy
53guy
X
Lots of stuff for sale
Replies
12
Views
1K
xjjeeper19
X
Back
Top