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Tools needed for Ball Joints& U-joints
- Thread starter Zoro
- Start date
Get the *BIGGEST* and baddest press you can get. The "C" alone should be a 10 pounder. Yes, it's doable without an impact gun, but you may want a High Lift handle around for a leetle extra leverage when popping out the old ball joints.
Make sure you get the Dana axle adapters, some of the surfaces are not square!
You might want to get a pickle fork if you're gonna take off the tie rod ends from the knuckles.
I did all 4 of mine in under 4 hours without air tools, but with beer and pizza.
Make sure you get the Dana axle adapters, some of the surfaces are not square!
You might want to get a pickle fork if you're gonna take off the tie rod ends from the knuckles.
I did all 4 of mine in under 4 hours without air tools, but with beer and pizza.
VampireJeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Arkansas
Is there a "HARBOR FREIGHT" anywhere near where you live? If so then go there and you can purchase a multitool that does both U-joints and ball joints. It is an aluminum C clamp with all the spacers and such needed to do the job.
Jeep914x4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Mexico
You need a 36 MM socket to take the axleshaft out. They also rent that at Auto Zone.
It's not too bad of a job. Breaker bar and balljoint press are a must. The one from Auto Zone works for me. I use it for the u-joints too. Makes it a lot easier.
Good luck.
It's not too bad of a job. Breaker bar and balljoint press are a must. The one from Auto Zone works for me. I use it for the u-joints too. Makes it a lot easier.
Good luck.
Jeep914x4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Mexico
Zoro said:
I can't remember because I finally bought one. I think it's like $25-30 for a box with 3 sizes in it. You only need the 36mm. It's 1/2 inch drive.
JJacobs
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Collins CO
I prefer skipping the 36mm nut and changing ujoints with the wheel bearing still attahed. The extra weight tends to dampen out the hammer blows a bit.
1996cc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Springfield, OR
I hope yours are better than mine. A press wouldn't touch it, beat like hell with a 3 pound sledge, wouldn't touch it. Heated the knuckle to a nice orange and beat like hell, reheated twice during the progress and beat like hell, finally came out. This was for both lowers.
SuperRA
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Santa Clara, CA
VampireJeep said:
I bought this tool, it's made of heavy steel painted silver. I did all my ball joints with it with no problems. Tool cost me abour $20. I did rent the ball joint adaptor set from Pepboys though, helped alot.
Jeep914x4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Mexico
Zoro said:
I think it would be tough to do the axleshaft u-joints without the socket. I don't see how it's possible. If it is, it would be a lot of hassle. However, you will need it to do the balljoints.
The u-joints are super easy with the balljoint press. It's 100X better than using a BFH like I used to. I never had a problem with the balljoints coming out. Just use a big breaker bar.
Check out this writeup.
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARadjustableBallJoints/adjustableballjoints.htm
Also, I found that placing a jackstand as close to the end of the axle helps when pounding the steering knuckle off with the double hammer method.
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
Jeep914x4 said:
no you dont...
you only need the 36mm socket to remove a uint bearing from a stub shaft... the whole thing can slide out in one piece - with the unit bearing attached - if you're only doing ball joints...
Hell - even if i were to replace my axle u-joints id leave the unit bearing attached...
So do the Ball joints need to be installed in a certain direction even if they're not adjustable? Probably not, right?
XJ Ranger-If I go the route of not using the 36mm socket, how much room is there between the u-joint and the end of the stub shaft at the hub?
XJ Ranger-If I go the route of not using the 36mm socket, how much room is there between the u-joint and the end of the stub shaft at the hub?
Unless you have a torque wrench that is accurate around the 150ft lb mark I woulnd't touch the 36mm nut, it sets the bearing preload.
You'll have "enough" room to get at the u-joints with the unit bearing attached. You might whack the bearing a few times with a hammer if you're not accurate.
Frankly, I'd just use the balljoint tool on the u-joints as well, it makes them cake. No hammering, just pull the c clips and once they'ce "popped" free with the balljoint toolo you can use a 1/2 ratchet to speed up the process.
You'll have "enough" room to get at the u-joints with the unit bearing attached. You might whack the bearing a few times with a hammer if you're not accurate.
Frankly, I'd just use the balljoint tool on the u-joints as well, it makes them cake. No hammering, just pull the c clips and once they'ce "popped" free with the balljoint toolo you can use a 1/2 ratchet to speed up the process.
Jeep914x4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Mexico
XJ_ranger said:
Now that I think about it, I guess you're right. I've always pulled the shafts. It seems like it would be cumbersom with it all together. I use my craftsman torque wrench to tighten it back up and have never replaced a bearing in over 100K of use. Changed the balljoints at least 5 times too.
You won't need to pull the diff cover to pull the shafts.
One more thing, when you put the shafts back in be careful to put them in straight so you don't pinch the seal and cause a leak.
1996cc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Springfield, OR
see my reply on the first page.
