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Proud new owner of a problematic '88 MJ

TerraWombat

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Eastern Shore MD
If ya just want to skip down to the problems part and not read my awesome story, skip to the third portion of this thread.

Background Story
My uncle's neighbor bought a 1988 Jeep Commanche Pioneer back in '89. Came with the 4.0L Inline six and the four speed automatic transmission. The guy loved the truck and primarily used it as a worktruck. Last year, the thing started giving him a lot of problems and would randomly die out, but would fire right back up if he put it in neutral. He said he couldn't exactly pinpoint when it would stall, sometimes it would be on a very mild acceleration, sometimes around a turn, and sometimes when he came to a stop. He said he took it to his mechanic and they replaced some sensors, but he wasn't sure which, but after that, the truck ran fine, apparentely. Last year, he said he was driving and the thing just quit and would not fire back up at all so he had it towed home under a tree and let it sit there until yesterday.

Where I come In
He called up my uncle and said he was going to take the truck to the scrapyard and junk it...wanted to know if my uncle was interested in the truck. Uncle told him no thanks, but he called me up right after and wanted to know if I wanted it. Hell yea I want it, especially for the price of FREE! So I went and picked the truck up yesterday, got the bill of sale, yadda yadda (guy wrote down like $100.00 for the price....said it was a parts vehicle). I lugged it home, pushed it into my shop, and began the troubleshoot. First place I looked was under the distributor cap, and much to my surprise, the rotor was completely melted! I own another '88 MJ, and I just sold an '86 MJ and a '90 MJ so I've got a few spare parts lying around ;) I threw in a spare rotor, charged up the battery, cranked the truck over, and it fired right up! Sweet, a free truck that still runs!

The Problems
Now, the truck may run, but it doesn't run well. With the truck in gear, and with light-mild accleration, it wants to stall and die out. I need to go at least 1/2 throttle for the truck to run fine. Once I get past the acceleration and just want to cruise, the truck is fine. Doesn't want to stall or hesitate or buck...it's just the initial acceleration which kills it.

The thing idles great though, responds to changes in engine load at idle too (I.E. turning the steering wheel, turning on the AC, which works!) so I suspect that the IAC stepper is fine.

I checked the TPS sensor for proper operation. It gets 5V from the power source, and at closed throttle, gets 0.76-0.78V. Using a smooth transition from closed throttle to wide open, the volts steadily increase with no flat spots or jumps. I suspect that the TPS is just fine.

With my past experience with these trucks, and these engines, I've already gone ahead and purchased a new crank position sensor. The old one is giving me a reading of about 215 ohms, but the new one is around 200 ohms. I'm not quite sure if the thing is bad or not, but it is covered in a combo of ATF, motor oil, and dirt, so I think a new one wouldn't hurt.

The oxygen sensor gives me a reading of 3450 ohms, which is entirely too high, but I'm to understand this is just checking the heating element inside, so I'm not too sure if this is bad. I also bought a new oxygen sensor just in case, just haven't gotten around to installing it.

Conclusions
If you've gotten this far, thanks for reading. I wanted to make sure I got everything that I've done thus far out on paper, whether I'm headed in the right direction or not. My plan is to replace the CPS and oxygen sensors today to see how the truck responds. I also bought a new muffler and tailpipe for it, although I know that won't change anything other than the noise it emits. the catalytic converter will be coming off too since it needs a new gasket, so i'll check to make sure that it isn't clogged. I will also be replacing the fuel filter since I have a new one lying around. If there's anything I'm missing, let me know. I think I'm on the right track to fixing this thing. Instead of trying to pinpoint what might be wrong, I'm just going to replace everything I know to go bad on these engines. I got the thing for free, might as well put a little money into it :)
 
Nice find on the truck! Anyways, yes a Bad CPS gives signs by stalling out the engine randomly. It wouldnt hurt to change it since the truck has been sitting for so long. I would also check the fuel pressure, and it should be at least 31psi, (thats what my problem was.) And last but not least make sure your throttle body is nice and clean, inclusing the IAC. Do you have any pics?
 
88XJSport said:
Nice find on the truck! Anyways, yes a Bad CPS gives signs by stalling out the engine randomly. It wouldnt hurt to change it since the truck has been sitting for so long. I would also check the fuel pressure, and it should be at least 31psi, (thats what my problem was.) And last but not least make sure your throttle body is nice and clean, inclusing the IAC. Do you have any pics?

Thanks for the response. I'll snap a few pictures in a bit as I'm going to my shop to work on it a little bit. I received it with no muffler or tailpipe, so I just went out and bought those and now I get to install them. I removed the IAC and cleaned it, but it wasn't too bad when I took it out, just some black buildup that my shop rag took right off. I just went out and bought a fuel pressure gauge (always wanted one) so I'll do that as well.

Pics in a bit. It's definitely no beauty as it was used as a work truck and sat outside most of it's life, but it was free so I can't complain!
 
Unplug the hose from the EGR Valve and see if that cures it. My 90 would always stall at stop lights because I had a clogged EGR valve. I unplugged that line and never looked back. Just a thought.
 
Well, I replaced the CPS and it's still running like crap. I took a volt reading while cranking the engine on the old CPS and the new CPS. Both of them are giving me a reading of 0.2VAC. I read that it was supposed to be between 0.5-0.8VAC. Wonder if I got a bad CPS. I'm going to replace the oxygen sensor in a little bit and hope that helps things.

I haven't tried to unplug the EGR...I will do that if the oxygen sensor doesn't cure this.

There was some gas left in the tank, but I practically ran the tank dry and refilled it with fresh gas. The old gas didn't smell stale so it might have still been fine. I also put some of that fuel injector/throttle body cleaner in the tank. Stuff rarely works, but worth a shot, plus it was buy one get one free at Advance Auto.

Still gotta take some pics of the thing, been too preoccupied with trying to get it to run.
 
If you have a spare MAP sensor lying around, try swapping it in. Make sure no leaks in the vacuum line going to it.
 
MJmk said:
If you have a spare MAP sensor lying around, try swapping it in. Make sure no leaks in the vacuum line going to it.

I've got another '88 MJ that runs fine, sans the gas mixing with the oil, so I'll try swapping those sensors.

So I replaced the CPS and the oxygen sensor today. First, the CPS install wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be. Some of the threads I read scared me, but with the right size extensions it was a breeze (thanked my dad for the four piece extension set he bought me for xmas!). Anyway, I replaced the CPS first and took it for a test drive, nothing changed. Replaced the oxygen sensor next (which somehow was not rusted fast in the exhuast pipe, thank god!) and took the the truck for a test drive...same symptoms.

I can confidently say that it doesn't just 'randomly' stall anymore. I've gotten to the point where I know how to stall it. If I'm at a dead stop and I give the pedal just enough pressure that the RPMs will rise, it'll hestitate, stumble, and sound like it's running on 3 cylinders. If I keep this certain amount of pressure on the pedal, the truck will stall. Now, if I just mash the pedal to, say, 1/3 throttle, the truck revs up fine and takes off...it's just that first 1/10 or so of the throttle that's giving me problems. I'd shrug it off, but it's especially annoying when I'm trying to back the truck up into my shop and up onto my ramps...don't want to mash the pedal and have the truck go up the ramps, off the ramps, and through my shop wall...but if I try to just tap the gas pedal to ease up the ramps, the truck dies.

If anyone has experienced such a problem and has a solution, I'd love to hear about it :)
 
TerraWombat said:
I've got another '88 MJ that runs fine, sans the gas mixing with the oil, so I'll try swapping those sensors.

So I replaced the CPS and the oxygen sensor today. First, the CPS install wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be. Some of the threads I read scared me, but with the right size extensions it was a breeze (thanked my dad for the four piece extension set he bought me for xmas!). Anyway, I replaced the CPS first and took it for a test drive, nothing changed. Replaced the oxygen sensor next (which somehow was not rusted fast in the exhuast pipe, thank god!) and took the the truck for a test drive...same symptoms.

I can confidently say that it doesn't just 'randomly' stall anymore. I've gotten to the point where I know how to stall it. If I'm at a dead stop and I give the pedal just enough pressure that the RPMs will rise, it'll hestitate, stumble, and sound like it's running on 3 cylinders. If I keep this certain amount of pressure on the pedal, the truck will stall. Now, if I just mash the pedal to, say, 1/3 throttle, the truck revs up fine and takes off...it's just that first 1/10 or so of the throttle that's giving me problems. I'd shrug it off, but it's especially annoying when I'm trying to back the truck up into my shop and up onto my ramps...don't want to mash the pedal and have the truck go up the ramps, off the ramps, and through my shop wall...but if I try to just tap the gas pedal to ease up the ramps, the truck dies.

If anyone has experienced such a problem and has a solution, I'd love to hear about it :)
Seriously dude, unhook the EGR system. I bet it'll do wonders for ya.
 
RenixPower said:
Seriously dude, unhook the EGR system. I bet it'll do wonders for ya.

LOL. I've been back and forth between my house (where the internet is) and my shop (where the truck is) and I was just stopping in to quote your post and tell you that was the problem. I plugged the hose going to the EGR valve, started it up, tapped the throttle a bit, and it didn't stumble, hesitate nothing. So I applogize for not taking your suggestion sooner. Guess the only thing I really wasted my time and money on was the CPS, but now I've got a working spare. The oxygen sensor was definitely dead...tried to see if it would fluctuate with a warm engine and nothing.

Well, thanks to everyone that helped me out and a special thank you to RenixPower for pinpointing the problem! I've only got one more problem to tackel with this thing (the drivetrain started clicking when I'm moving) and this truck will be close to perfect mechanically...and to think I got it for free...
 
TerraWombat said:
LOL. I've been back and forth between my house (where the internet is) and my shop (where the truck is) and I was just stopping in to quote your post and tell you that was the problem. I plugged the hose going to the EGR valve, started it up, tapped the throttle a bit, and it didn't stumble, hesitate nothing. So I applogize for not taking your suggestion sooner. Guess the only thing I really wasted my time and money on was the CPS, but now I've got a working spare. The oxygen sensor was definitely dead...tried to see if it would fluctuate with a warm engine and nothing.

Well, thanks to everyone that helped me out and a special thank you to RenixPower for pinpointing the problem! I've only got one more problem to tackel with this thing (the drivetrain started clicking when I'm moving) and this truck will be close to perfect mechanically...and to think I got it for free...
Sweet! Glad to hear that was it bud. Always glad when someone disables their EGR system. Just one less problem to deal with.
 
As promised, here's a couple of pictures I took during this 72 degree winter day :laugh:

RedCommanche001.jpg


RedCommanche002.jpg


RedCommanche004.jpg


RedCommanche003.jpg

77,100 original miles!

Both of the front wheel u-joints need to be replaced as they're both clicking badly. The parts have been ordered and the u-joint tool has been rented. Maybe I'll get around to it tomorrow, but can't miss the Eagles vs. Giants game!
 
so, ive had a stumbling issue, it happens when i was trying to accelerate too quickly, it would stumble, and make a thumping sound. After reading this, i went out and plugged the valve on the intake manifold, and pulled out the plastic hardline, took it for a drive and i couldnt get it to stumble like it did before... so you may have solved my problem as well, much thanks

-Is there any downsides to this? i know pcv's are important on turbo cars that see boost, but are they really needed on a jeep? should i replace the pcv? or just leave it disconnected?

-Will having this disconnected fail visual smog check in california?

-Will the bottom of my hood ever get sprayed with oil from the unplugged grommit on the top-back of the valve cover?

thanks a lot renix, wombat
 
The vacuum hose I unplugged was not the PCV valve, but the EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation). It is located on the drivers side of the car right underneath the large black tube that goes from the airbox to the throttle body. If you look down there, you'll see a metal rod which you could get a pair of needle nose pliers on and move in and out. If this is, in fact, what you unplugged and capped the vacuum line to, then the downfalls would be higher NOx emissions at idle and it may or may not pass inspection.

Now, if you really did cap off your PCV valve, then there isn't much of a way for your crankcase to breath and release and pressure that gets built up inside.
 
xcm said:
im hoping this thread doesnt die down, i did cap the pcv, as per the picture here http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1d/bl860d.htm
i drove the shit out of it, trying to get it to stumble, and it wont.... anyone got any ideas whats wrong?
You definitly do not want to cap the PCV. Just buy a new one and see if that works. The pressure will build up under your valve cover and start blowing oil out the other hose and probably blow by your valve cover gasket if that isn't happening already. If you have too order it from parts store then remove old one and try and clean it with brake cleaner to get the little valve inside to move, this may work untill it comes into the store.
 
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