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Looking for XJ

E

Eagle-Mark

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Idaho
Looking for an XJ to work on for my son. Any years better than others? Looks like the I6 4.0L would be the engine of choice. Going to end up with 33's

Wheelbase the same on four door and two door?
 
I prefer the 91-95 engines with the 97-01 body with the 87-90 fuel mileage.

no difference in wheelbase
 
97 was the big change in body style, however something to consider before you buy is that pre 96 handle lifts better then 97+ in terms of driveline vibrations. 4-4.5" of lift is what a lot of people are running to clear 33's and thats right around the range where an SYE is desired for 97, but you can get away without one with a 96 and older model.
 
87-88 driveline with the Dana 44, 91 engine and cooling system. On the serious side though the Dana rear end in the older models pre-96 I think have less driveline issues if you lift it, but the 35 is pretty weak. The 242 is a good street trail TC , but the 231 has more options for upgrades and is supposed to have a stouter tailshaft. What ever year you decide on you will have pros and cons on that year. I have an 88 with the 231 and dis-connect front axle. I love it, but like most guys who say a paticular year is better, it is usually because that is the year they drive. Picking an XJ is your first great choice.
I have heard though for Rock the AW4 4 speed auto is a lot easier on the drivetrain.
Good Luck and Have fun !​


9 years of Evolution Here !
BeforeAfter.gif
 
Don't let people scare you away from the Renix pre 91 rigs. They work as well or better than the late models. The listed hp differences have more to do with how they measured the hp as anything. I recommend looking for a no rust vehicle with decent interior in the 88-90 range. A decent running one can be had around here for $800-1500. That leaves you some cash to do some mods. Most 4.0's that have at least had the oil changed will go 250k miles.
 
old_man said:
Don't let people scare you away from the Renix pre 91 rigs. They work as well or better than the late models. The listed hp differences have more to do with how they measured the hp as anything. I recommend looking for a no rust vehicle with decent interior in the 88-90 range. A decent running one can be had around here for $800-1500. That leaves you some cash to do some mods. Most 4.0's that have at least had the oil changed will go 250k miles.
Click to expand...

I only stay away form the Renix years because I can't find one with less than 150K and lack of rust. My last one was great but it rusted away and the body was shot with 210k on it. The motor lives on in my CJ.
 
old_man said:
Don't let people scare you away from the Renix pre 91 rigs. They work as well or better than the late models. The listed hp differences have more to do with how they measured the hp as anything. I recommend looking for a no rust vehicle with decent interior in the 88-90 range. A decent running one can be had around here for $800-1500. That leaves you some cash to do some mods. Most 4.0's that have at least had the oil changed will go 250k miles.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't steer him away from Renix. I just put another one in my rig. As long as you keep on top of it, the cooling system isn't that bad either. The biggest problem is probably the pressure bottle. Buy at the stealership, the chinese ones break really easy. The pre 91 rigs are probably the easiest to lift and build with out major mods too. As far as more Horse Power I believe the HO does have more hp. My oldest boy with the HO enigine is a lot quicker then mine and my other sons whos is a Renix too. But for off-roading no big deal. Gear it down and you're good to go.
 
Renix would be the fuel injection? Is it a MPFI?

I guess finding the right one with the dana 44 rear would be a bonus.

AW4 for the rocks? Usually the manual has the lower gears.

Thanks for the help and links. :worship:
 
Eagle-Mark said:
AW4 for the rocks?
Click to expand...

The reason being is that a clutch on rocks is real rough on the drive train. Ifg you have been or watched Rock Crawling you can see why. If you have a real nice crawl ratio it isn't as big a problem, if not there is a lot of dumping and stalling going on.
Not sure if you know it or not , but the torque convertor will cut your crawl ratio in half in 4 low. My Crawl ratio with 35" tires is around 70 to 1 with 4.56 and factory TC and 1st Gear on the tranny.
 
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