SYE/Drive shaft question

So I guess I'm a little seach function impaired. I have a 93 xj with a 5 inch lift. d35 with 33's. I have a friend giving me a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25. I have plans to increase the lift to about 7 inches, keeping the 33's. On my list of "to do" on the jeep, the first and most logical upgrade is a SYE and a CV shaft. My question is, could I buy a SYE/Shaft combo from rusty's or anywhere that sells a combo, and tell them I have a d35 with 5 inches of lift and have it universally work with the chryco and 7 inches of lift when I get around to putting the new axle/suspenders under my jeep? My understanding of the cv shaft is that there is a certain amount of "play" in the length of the shaft, so an extra 2 inches in height would really only amount to about 6 tenths of an inch in overall shaft length. Is there at least that much play in a Tom Woods cv style shaft?

I am sure you could use the shaft with either axle. But why 2" more of lift? I have 5.5" and 33s and wouldn't mind going lower?

I have 6" lift with a porc sye and a front driveshaft in the rear aswell as a C8.25 and it has worked out fine for as long as I've had it. Now my real question is why go with 7" lift and 33's the only reason I went as high as 6 was to fit 35's with a possibility of going to 36's or 37's

Well I have the stock tire carrier in the rear and on all the tougher trails i'm dragging my bumpers on every obstacle. I currently have OME 3 inch lift springs, with rear lift shackles and front poly spacers. I was planning to get a long arm kit, ACOS front coil spacers with 4.5 lift springs. Rear I was going to keep my shackles, get a set of 4.5 lift springs, and keep my 1/2 inch blocks. The shackles yeild about 1.5 inches of lift, combined with the blocks I have 2 inches, plus the new 4.5 lift springs = 6.5 inches. The only offroading I do being here in Utah is in Moab. I also have bushwackers (newb mistake) and the fronts got ripped off this last go around on the Golden Spike trail. The rears are constantly rubbing on the smallest bit of articulation. the bushwackers tend to make things look small all around. I'll eventually get 35's, but not until my 33 bfg at's wear out. They're not even a year old. So thats the low down. Thanks for the tips guys.

Lift isn't going to help your departure angle that much for Moab. When you drop off of a ledge with the rear tires, the suspension compresses anyway. A rear tire carrier in Moab is just waiting to get ripped off.

Now for the Bushwackers. To keep from rubbing you have to trim sheetmetal before you put them on. Bump stops help but you need to trim, no matter what.

Yea I trimmed all over the fenders before putting them on... but i don't have extended front bumpstops for the front. so they rubbed when the front articulation was at a maximum. The rear only rubs on the door piece of the flare, as it hangs down about 1/2 inch past the corresponding rear flare piece, so it catches that lip and causes problems. When I put on the ACOS im going to rig up my own extended bump stops for the front, and the rear I was going to try to do the same.