Roboter,
I have read and readed both posts several times and here is what I see:
"Checked the coil with an adjustable spark tester. Spark jumped a gap setting of 24 thousands. Is this an acceptable way to test the coil?"
The spark gap on a new spark plug is 35 thousandths, 24 is not enough! If it won't jump at least 35, or even better 50 thousandths then that is a symptom of the problem.
"Yup. Timing is good, rotor rotates."
How do you know the timing is good. Please be specific, did you set the engine to TDC on the intake stroke and install the distributor with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire to be sure?
X2 on the noid light check for the injectors!
Roboter, I suggest you save what money you have left and download some testing guides (and or buy one like a Haynes manual). For instance the Haynes manual and probably several of the free online guides here and elsewhere show how to use a <$10 ohm meter to test the wiring and ECM for obvious shorts and open circuits. It can also be used to test injector solenoid coils, sensors like the TPS, distributor, CPS, battery voltage, grounds (the battery negative to the engine, to the firwall, to the ECU, TCU, etc.
Also just for the hell of it, check around the exhaust manifold for any sensor wires that may have had an unfortunate encounter and shorted an ECU sensor to ground. I lost a brand new O2 sensor just moving wires around one day.
Also, brand new parts can be bad! Get and ohm meter, some directions (sensor testing and ohm meter use directions ) and test them all, new and old!
Seach words to try: sensor testing ohm meter
Also, after every starting attempt, try opening up the throttle to WOT on the next starting attempt to dry out the excess fuel (flooded) that builds every time you crank it with out it starting.
It only takes about 30 seconds of cranking to flood it each time!!!!!!!!!
experts?