Anyone have Rusty's 6.5" XJ Spring Pack Kit?

Do you like the kit?

Also did your stock driveshaft still fit after doing the lift. I am planning on getting a custom driveshaft made with the SYE kit but I am wondering if I could at least drive it a handful of miles until I take measurements wait for my driveshaft to come. Or can you just measure the driveshaft before it gets lifted?

Thanks for the info.

hi..i bought the 6.5 frt coils..6 months and ones dead..yes i needed the sye..hope this helps abit

kahaikapu said:

hi..i bought the 6.5 frt coils..6 months and ones dead..yes i needed the sye..hope this helps abit

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What is dead? One of your coils, shocks or what? Did your stock driveshaft fit after the lift?

if he needed a SYE the stock driveshaft will not work

and you will probably need an sye as well

the angle at the tranfercase and the drive shaft was bad..binding..the coil is about 1 inch to 2 inches shorter..making my pass side lower then the drivers side..
anyone notices that the pass side coilspring tend to go dead first

kahaikapu said:

anyone notices that the pass side coilspring tend to go dead first

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engine torques that way

-Tim

klennop said:

What is dead? One of your coils, shocks or what? Did your stock driveshaft fit after the lift?

Click to expand...

your stock driveshaft WILL NOT WORK! mine was binding up at 6" of lift, time for you to get a SYE

ah ha..thx Tim Happy New Year all ALOHA STAN

It al depends. I have a buddy with the rustys 6.5 and he just has the t-case drop kit and he drives that thing al the time. I dont know how he does it, But he does.

I purchased the 6.5" Long Arm kit about a year ago. I have had a few disappoints.

With my Jeep, the angles down below involving the transfer case output and driveshaft yoke were hardcore bad. I went with the CV conversion kit from Tom Woods with a new driveshaft. Haven't had any issues with that. Highly recommend you head towards this direction.

A few of the disappoints that I have had, involved the rear. They're going to send you aluminum shims. Trash those right away. Mine have cracked, fallen apart and don't exist anymore. Get some steel ones, or fix the driveline angle yourself with some grinding and welding.

Second, recently my leaf packs have been falling apart. What happened, was the center pin going through the leaf pack sheered off (stupid shims assisted there) and the small leaf fell out on both sides.

I recommend using different leaf packs all together unless you plan to go with more lift in the future. The install uses the 6.5" pack, and the stock shackles. Bad mix, trust me on this one.

If you got anymore questions, lemme know.

Scott

Here's my take on it. I don't have his 6.5 Springs. I have his 3.5 AAL, 1" block 2" shackels. I also run his 1" t-case drop. I wheel mine pretty hard and it does fine. I have a AA SYE in the garage but I am waiting to put new axles in. As for vibes I didn't have them until I changed the U-joint on the t-case side. Mine are really minimal. I have had mine lifted for 4 years now. My front I run Rock Krawlers stuff with the exception of Rusty's first gen. control arms which have broke 3 times. I have the pics for proof. I am building and entire new set-up with a HP 44 and 9". Hope that helps a little bit.

Hey Scott what year is your XJ?

Did you have to get adjustable CA's to adjust the pinion angle?

I would go with the Tom woods setup.

Where do the aluminum shims go? Do you wheel yours pretty hard and that is why the pins sheared off?

I would not be going any higher than the 6.5" so then what would you suggest for different leaf packs?

Thanks for your info!