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sye problem

J

jsk2052

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bethlehem, Pennsylvania
Ok so my tom woods 242 conversion is finished and the vibes that were there are gone but now i have new vibrations and a good amount of noise. I had a 1" t-case drop prior to doing the sye but that is gone now so I thought that maybe the front driveshaft was the problem. I unbolted it and drove and it was exactly the same without it. The jeep is a 2001 with a rubicon express 3.5" kit with full packs. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Sounds like you may need to remount the rear spring perches to get the correct pinion angle. That's the prefered method over shims. Did you run it very long w/o the sye w/the lift installed? If so, perhaps it buggered up the u-joint.
 
Junk Yard Dog said:
Sounds like you may need to remount the rear spring perches to get the correct pinion angle. That's the prefered method over shims. Did you run it very long w/o the sye w/the lift installed? If so, perhaps it buggered up the u-joint.
Click to expand...
What are you talking about dude? That will take a ton of time and money to get that all right, not to mention you need to know to weld and make sure everything is straight. Shimming is the easiest, and if you search around on here, more suggested fix. Its small money for shims, and all you have to do is slide them in. If you were going to remount the spring perches, it would make more sence to get some U-bolt eliminator kits. Its only a 3.5 kit so its not like the pinion angle is that far off, some shims would do fine.

What U-joints? He just did a SYE so that means new driveshaft with new U-joints.
 
Well, you can get away w/shims but they tend to be a weak link. If you want to do it right, remount the spring perches. It rakes a little more time but it's a much stronger fix. You can do all the cutting, grinding & positioning then take it to your local welding shop for a solid weld.
Mark
 
Junk Yard Dog said:
Well, you can get away w/shims but they tend to be a weak link. If you want to do it right, remount the spring perches. It rakes a little more time but it's a much stronger fix. You can do all the cutting, grinding & positioning then take it to your local welding shop for a solid weld.
Mark
Click to expand...

I agree that this would be the best strongest way, but then every time you changed ride height youd have to re-weld the axle perches. I would never do it unless i went to a lift height that was too high to be corrected with shims.
 
That's true. It seems to be the common m.o. for jeepers to start w/a 3" or 4" then got taller & taller yet. I'm on my 3rd lift @ 6". That's as high as I'm going so I repositioned the perches & welded them. I did use shims previously & they did break under pressure. If you do use shims DEFIANTLY go w/steel shims. Cast aluminum shims are crap.
Mark
 
I bet your driveshaft is out 180dgr
took mine off one time and forgot to mark it
they get wear patterns in them
I have a sye no pinion shims should not need them with a cardan joint
thats kinda the point of putting a SYE on
had vibes like you would not beleive
took it off rotated it problem solved
 
No, the point of the sye is to be able to align the shaft w/the pinion angle so the u-joint @ the pinion isn't operating at such a steep angle causing driveline vibration.
Mark
 
Junk Yard Dog said:
No, the point of the sye is to be able to align the shaft w/the pinion angle so the u-joint @ the pinion isn't operating at such a steep angle causing driveline vibration.
Mark
Click to expand...
Half way there...
You still have to deal with the u-joint angle at the tcase. That is split between the 2 cardan joints (affectively reducing the angle to half for each joint). Thus reducing all angles in the driveline.
 
That's true. The t-case end of the shaft is taken care of by the cv joint, but we're discussing the pinion end of the drive shaft here. Specifically, to shim or not to shim. What it boils down to is that using shims is a temporary quick fix & relocating the spring perches is a permanent & more durable fix.
Mark
 
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