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Control arm question

Chero-King said:
When the LCA hits the shock mount.

Clearance the shock mount.(cut) It only takes a little bit to gain a ton of movement.

To the original question...Can you get it aligned? If you can, a crappy ride and weakness of your arms are the only reason to change them. I always change mine at 3".(from stock that is)
 
alignment is in spec... the caster is adjusted all the way in with no shims left. Just had it aligned.

I put no lca bushings in today and it helped take out the shimmy i had from 45 to 50 put was a bitch to get the bolts lined back up. Even though it took the shimmy out it seems to ride rougher now at 55 to 60.

Say that i did get adjustables, how much adustment should i make when installing them? and would it make any since to getting lowers if its in spec now.

I mean if i got adjustable lowers which would give me additional length wouldnt that slack just be taken up again with shims on the back of the control arms when alignment is done?
 
By your post I think you are confused....(NO OFFENCE MEANT) as you lift the jeep you loose caster. You need to LEGNTHEN the LCA's as you raise the jeep. the shims will also allow you to move the axle forward adding positive caster. This is a good/necessary thing.

The rougher ride is likely the result of the LCA angles. Think about this...the factory has the LCA's almost paralel to the ground. So the movement is up and down not directly into the "frame". now, with your lift you are transmitting the bumps, difectly into the "frame" and you feel them more. Wanna releave that, reduce the angle on your control arms. Only way to do that and keep the lift is going long arm......

I know you said it was just alligned...but Unless you have stuff seroiusly bent. I cannot see of a lifted jeep can be within spec with NO SHIMS and factory LCA's!! I think you need another allignment.

When lifting a jeep with the crappy inverted Y, you effect toe in. Yours was def off. If you didnt adjust it, your track bar is likey in need of reloation/adjustment. At 3.5" of lift you drivers side tar is likey protruding out about 1" more than the pass side. Then there is your caster...or lack there of..... I have found time and time again, lifted jeeps LIKE POS caster. The magic number seems to be about 8 degrees positive on my rigs.

Seriously head to a shop that is friendly to 4WD's and knows what they are doing allighning one.
 
I hear ya....i sat right beside the machine as he did the alignment. With a little toe adjustment everything was in spec except the camber on the drivers side was out by 1 degree in which there was no settings for unless you get the ball joint which is definately not smart. I have a hd Rustys TB so it should be a problem there.

Im thinking of replacing the upper bushings as they are cracked pretty bad too.

As far as angles...we are talking 3" so theres not much of an angle maybe 8 degrees at most. Ill snap some pics today and postem.

I also have some really good new parts im selling today so look for them.
 
jeepbme said:
I hear ya....i sat right beside the machine as he did the alignment. With a little toe adjustment everything was in spec except the camber on the drivers side was out by 1 degree in which there was no settings for unless you get the ball joint which is definately not smart. QUOTE]

Ball joints adjust CAMBER, like this: ( --o- )

" ( " represents the wheel's arch of movement while " --o- " is the axle.

Adjustable ball joints are avalible and can get you a couple degreees of adjustment. Here is a link to installing them. Scroll down to adjustable ball joints.

http://www.madxj.com/

Here is another site on doing your own alighnments. You couls check yours yourself!!

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

Caster is usually +- 1-2 degrees. Was the caster to the positive or negative?

I hope this helps!!

good luck,

CW
 
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