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My D30 high pinion DS seal is weeping. I searched and came up empty. It looks pretty staight forward, but would ask for any advice, tips or write up link before I dive in.
A high pinion D30 doesnt have a crush sleeve, it has shims. You dont need to notch anything or retighten to exactly the same position or any of that crap. Just torque it to the proper torque when you're done.
If you feel better marking the yoke, pinion and DS go ahead but its not necessary. Ive heard people say you have to put it all back together as it came apart but fact is its not balanced together at the factory and if you ever put an aftermarket DS on, it wont be balanced with the pinion and yoke, so why they think it needs to go back the same way is beyond me.
XJ_Xtreme, what size socket did you use on that pinion nut ? I got done tonight with my front axle cover and went to replace the pinion seal. I unbolted the drive shaft, but I don't have a socket big enough (image that, 4 sets of various 1/2" drive length, tooth, metric, and standard sockets and I still don't have right tool).
Thanks Tim. A previous search pulled up 2 different sizes, and since I have to purchase a larger socket, I would of liked to get the correct size on the first try.
A high pinion D30 doesnt have a crush sleeve, it has shims. You dont need to notch anything or retighten to exactly the same position or any of that crap. Just torque it to the proper torque when you're done.
If you feel better marking the yoke, pinion and DS go ahead but its not necessary. Ive heard people say you have to put it all back together as it came apart but fact is its not balanced together at the factory and if you ever put an aftermarket DS on, it wont be balanced with the pinion and yoke, so why they think it needs to go back the same way is beyond me.
:lecture:
So by your logic, with a shim setup and an original torque of say 165, i follow a torque spec of 180 ft lbs and just set the torque as I was told by you.
It would not be long before I would have to be back in there changing the pinion bearings because I had set the preload too high. There isn't an exact torque spec for a pinion, there is a range and it's all based on the prinion bearing preload.
It's not a matter of balancing, it's a matter of preload and bearing life.
The HP D30 uses shims to set preload, not a crush sleeve. There is a torque spec (Its something like 185-250) but that torque has nothing to do with the pinion bearing preload in a shimmed pinion. The thickness of the shims is what sets preload. You have two stacks of shims, one stack sets pinion depth, the other stack sets preload.
Dont believe me? Lets put XJ titles on it.(-extends hand for internet handshake-).
Come on, do it, I need another Jeep.
EDIT: In light of you having an 01 and mine being a 96, I'll throw in an addition Jeep (a 95 YJ) if you win.
EDIT: For the purposes of accuracy, I checked the torque spec. Its actually 180-260 ft/lbs.
A high pinion D30 doesnt have a crush sleeve, it has shims. You dont need to notch anything or retighten to exactly the same position or any of that crap. Just torque it to the proper torque when you're done.
If you feel better marking the yoke, pinion and DS go ahead but its not necessary. Ive heard people say you have to put it all back together as it came apart but fact is its not balanced together at the factory and if you ever put an aftermarket DS on, it wont be balanced with the pinion and yoke, so why they think it needs to go back the same way is beyond me.
