I've made truck mirrors before. Used a broken dressing mirror, made a template, covered the mirror in masking tape. Used a tile cutting blade (diamond blade) for my angle grinder, the thin blade without the serations (smooth blade). Used a rumba sander with wet and dry sand paper (wetted) to smooth the edges a little. Sealed the edges (rim) with a bead of super glue, so water doesn't get under the mirror surface (and to seal any micro cracks that may want to spread). Buying an OEM mirror was expensive and finding just the mirror without the housing, hard. Having one made at a glass shop was about half the price of OEM, making my own took me about half an hour. I did mine outside, used a dust mask and was carefull with the glass dust. Shook out my clothes and threw them in the washing machine. Something about glass dust, just gives me the willies.
I used regular old plumbing silicon to glue the mirror in the housing.
My first mirror, I failed to seal the edges and eventually (after a year or so) water found it's way between the glass and the coating, causing dark edges. My last mirror is four years old and still looks good.
Try not to force the mirror any when cutting, or it may crack, try not to overheat it. I did mine with many little cuts, with a pause between each cut. I also wet the masking tape, don't know if it helped keep the temp. down any, but didn't seem to hurt much. Helped keep the dust down some.
If you do use plastic, hardened or not and have to clean it. Rub as little as possible (dust is mostly sand) I use window spray and toilet papaer, wash it off before cleaning and don't rub in circles. Rubbing plastic in circles really messes with image at night from light scattering. Your going to have some light scattering anyway with parralel scratches, but circles is the worst. You can rub most of the scratches out with a good quality polishing compound, I keep 3 different grits in the shop. Dupont clear coat polishing compound (not rubbing compound) works about the best for me. I've used polishing compound on rag top rear plastic windows with acceptable results, the plastic side curtain windows on my YJ and even my motorcycle helmet face plate (ballistic Lexan). The results aren't perfect, but an acceptable improvement (reduces light scattering) for scratched plastic.
Last tip, when cutting plastic keep it wet. Whether you use a jig saw or whatever, wetting it well and keeping it wet, will prevent the cut from welding itself back together and the cuttings won't stick to the plastic.