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Need help asap!

89jeepxjw

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
I need some quick help with my 1989 cherokee pioneer. It was almost stolen last night but luckily they perps busted the key cylinder? (if thats what you call it)up pretty bad. So after i filed the report i went to leave my girlfriends house and when i put my key in and try to start it it was very very hard to actually get the key to turn forward. So after i played with it for about 10 min i got her started but the blinkers and radio and heater would not work unless i twisted they key a little farther. I get home and I can not get the jeep to stop! i spent about 20 min trying to budge the cylinder but its locked up with no play whats so ever. Finallly pulled each fuel injecter plug till she died. Now im in some desperate need of how to get the old one out,or if i can buy a new one with key from a general parts store. She is my daily driver and need to get her going. Thanks for any help!!!
 
i bought one last summer from Advance auto parts it came with 2 keys and was about 15 bucks. you will need a steering wheel puller to replace it if you don't have one they sell a cheap one for about 12 dollars. Search this site and you will find how to change it. I did mine this past summer and it went pretty smooth thanks to the help i found on this site. hope this helps
 
Pics would help assess the damage, but it sounds like your best bet is to get to a wreckers and salvage what you can out of a jeep there...
 
Ok i was just messing around with it and when the key is in and i go to turn forward the plastic cover under the guage cluster torques with with any force i put on the key? Ill post up a pic in a few
 
89jeepxjw said:
I need some quick help with my 1989 cherokee pioneer. It was almost stolen last night but luckily they perps busted the key cylinder? (if thats what you call it)up pretty bad. So after i filed the report i went to leave my girlfriends house and when i put my key in and try to start it it was very very hard to actually get the key to turn forward. So after i played with it for about 10 min i got her started but the blinkers and radio and heater would not work unless i twisted they key a little farther. I get home and I can not get the jeep to stop! i spent about 20 min trying to budge the cylinder but its locked up with no play whats so ever. Finallly pulled each fuel injecter plug till she died. Now im in some desperate need of how to get the old one out,or if i can buy a new one with key from a general parts store. She is my daily driver and need to get her going. Thanks for any help!!!

Next time just discconnect the battery. Also pulling one of the passenger side relays will kill the engine too. I forget which one. But it is much easier.

I have had the same problem with both my jeeps. One took a new key-cylinder installation, the other took a steering column pull/swap from the junk yard (2 weeks ago). Both are a bit tricky to do, especially for a first timer. Get some hands on help from someone who has done it and who has the tools, like a steering wheel puller, or get a pro to do it for you, especially if you need it done FAST since it is your daily ride!

Mike McGinness
South Houston, TX
 
Okay what the hell. I got a new key cylinder installed and it still wants to lock up on me when trying to start,before i even put everything back together I turned the key to make sure it was good. When i did this the fuel pump primed and then i get lots of noise through the radio with the sound of relays going off on and a constant low pitch hummm coming from what sounds liek the fuel pump. I was careful and put everything back the way it should and now they key is doing the exact same thing it did before?? someone clue me in before i put a bullet in this thing!
 
There is a critical, adjustable distance involved in a small steel rod link that runs between the actual slider style electrical "start-run-off-acc on" switch which is farther down the right (or is it left side on jeeps?) side of the steering column. As I recall there are 2 screws that hold it in position and if you loosen the tie down screws you can adjust the electrical switch tie down position to take up the slack in the rod length/position. You need to adjust it forwards or backwards slightly until you get it to match its positions with the key cylinders run-start-off-on/aac positions, the SWEET spot! Right now you have it close enough for it to just make intermitent electrical contact.

I had to do the same thing when I changed either (key cyylinder or starter switch) part.

Mike McGinness
South Houston, TX
 
Ecomike said:
There is a critical, adjustable distance involved in a small steel rod link that runs between the actual slider style electrical "start-run-off-acc on" switch which is farther down the right (or is it left side on jeeps?) side of the steering column. As I recall there are 2 screws that hold it in position and if you loosen the tie down screws you can adjust the electrical switch tie down position to take up the slack in the rod length/position. You need to adjust it forwards or backwards slightly until you get it to match its positions with the key cylinders run-start-off-on/aac positions, the SWEET spot! Right now you have it close enough for it to just make intermitent electrical contact.

I had to do the same thing when I changed either (key cyylinder or starter switch) part.

Mike McGinness
South Houston, TX


When this happened on my daughter's 87, the thieves bent the rod up, so we had to unbend it first before adjusting. When they pry one of these things open it can be a hassle getting all the pieces unbent so they don't bind up.

In her case, they didn't get it started because she took out the fuel pump relay at night.
 
Ecomike said:
There is a critical, adjustable distance involved in a small steel rod link that runs between the actual slider style electrical "start-run-off-acc on" switch which is farther down the right (or is it left side on jeeps?) side of the steering column. As I recall there are 2 screws that hold it in position and if you loosen the tie down screws you can adjust the electrical switch tie down position to take up the slack in the rod length/position. You need to adjust it forwards or backwards slightly until you get it to match its positions with the key cylinders run-start-off-on/aac positions, the SWEET spot! Right now you have it close enough for it to just make intermitent electrical contact.

I had to do the same thing when I changed either (key cyylinder or starter switch) part.

Mike McGinness
South Houston, TX
Thank you! with a little playing i got it just right. Now only one more Q, I dont have any dash or tail lights? :)
 
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