• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Door Locks & Ticking Question- Come on you know...

cherokee4fun

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bend, Oregon
OK,

So I have some questions on my '90

I was working on my electric door locks... I did a search and found good info on how to upgrade the door locks, but I came up with some new questions:

1. When I start the engine, the passenger door locks all by itself? What's up with that?

2. Not sure if it is related, but something starts a ticking sound in my dash. It sounds like a turn signal, but the signals are not on. Any ideas?

3. Any one know where to get a new shifter bezel shield for a automatic?

Thanks for your help,

Bob:sunshine:
 
cherokee4fun said:
1. When I start the engine, the passenger door locks all by itself? What's up with that?

Did this happen after your lock upgrade? Was that the upgrade by adding in the 2 relays? 2 Door or 4 door?

cherokee4fun said:
2. Not sure if it is related, but something starts a ticking sound in my dash. It sounds like a turn signal, but the signals are not on. Any ideas?

When does it start ticking? Does it tick regularly or is it irrattic? When does it stop?

cherokee4fun3 said:
. Any one know where to get a new shifter bezel shield for a automatic?

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/XJ_Parts/Interior/more2.html
 
mine ticked a while back. i couldnt diagnose the problem so i just rapped the top of the dash a few hard times and it was good as new...

do you have aftermarket lights, i think mine started after i installed mine, but the tick went away and never cameback so its all good now...
 
Thanks for the reply,


No, I have not done the upgrade yet, thought I would figure out what the ticking was and why the passenger door locked automatically. The ticking sound comes from the left side of the dash, last about 20 seconds after I start the engine and is "regular", not erratic.

Thanks for the link to Team Cherokee. I have looked there before, and I see they offer the bezel with the shield, I was hoping to get just the shield. I have been able to purchase that in the past on other Jeeps. Maybe I can drop them a email.


Thanks again,
Bob

PS... This Jeep is a 1990 4 door, with the Laredo package, electric doors and windows.
 
Do you have the keyless entry? My '88 does. Since it already has lock/unlock relays I asked how these would help. I really didn't get a good response. After measuring voltages in several places I traced the problem to some corrosion on the connector going to the pass side door lock switch. Clean them up really well and my remote works fine.
 
Yes, it does have keyless entry. Which connector did you find a mess? Is the one connects right to the switch on the passenger door and how did you get the corrosion off?



So if you have keyless entry, does that take place of the relay setup that has been listed here to fix the problem?

Thanks for the info....
Bob
 
Emissions timer is just that...simply a timer set to light the emissions light on your dash at a predetermined mileage (85,000?). The timer always ticks, it doesn't matter if you are before or after the mileage. Its located under the dash on the driver's side (just above your legs). Its a clear/smoked plastic square box (maybe 4" x 1"). I just unplugged mine. Doesn't do anything but tick and turn your emissions light on.
 
cherokee4fun said:
Yes, it does have keyless entry. Which connector did you find a mess? Is the one connects right to the switch on the passenger door and how did you get the corrosion off?

Yes, that one. I used an old toothbrush (well, now it's old now!) and some electrical cleaner.

cherokee4fun said:
So if you have keyless entry, does that take place of the relay setup that has been listed here to fix the problem?

That's what I was asking. Why use 2 more? No one gave me a good answer, even the guy that did the writeup.

So I checked voltages at the relays. I don't recall the color coding, but it was easy to figure out which had battery voltage (key off). I had nearly 13v. Then I flipped the pass side lock switch to lock, then unlock, and back, while I back probed each tab on the relay until I had a jump in voltage. When I held the switch steady, I found I only had about 10.5 v. I checked the other relay and found I had about the same. Checking the FSM, the wiring shows that power to the other door locks goes through the pass side switch. When I pulled the switch panel out, I could see the green through the connector.

After a bit of scrubbing, I got just over 12v out of the relays. That was enough to solve my weak locks.
 
Back
Top