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Using yj brake hoses when lifting an xj

tkjeeper

NAXJA Forum User
I hope someone can help me with a newbie problem. Recently did a poor man's lift on my mudder to be xj and ended up with 4.5-5" of lift. Ordered yj brake hoses from raybestos with the part #'s from a site I'm sure u all know MadXJ. The hoses I got are exactly the same as the ones I took off! Shite!! Can someone spell it out for me and give me the proper part #'s please! Raybestos please so I can return these pieces of shite! Thanks all.
 
rear #BH38845
Front #BH38861 and #BH38862
These are from a wrangler if i remember correctly. but are an exact fit. 3-5 inches longer.
 
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Yep....just to confirm I installed the below on my '89:

Napa parts number for Jeep Wrangler '95 YJ:
Brake Hose - Left Front
TS 4138862
$21.49
w/o ABS Brakes

Brake Hose - Right Front
TS 4138861
$21.49
w/o ABS Brakes
 
Thanks alot guys I'll give mojojojo's a try first, then if that fails maybe I'll try Johnny V's. Great work boys!
 
tkillby said:
Thanks alot guys I'll give mojojojo's a try first, then if that fails maybe I'll try Johnny V's. Great work boys!

If you have an AutoZone chain up there, the part#s for Brakeware brand YJ fronts are:

Left 78121 (cross to Raybestos BH38862, Wagner F128680, Bendix 78122)
Right 70293 (cross to Raybestos BH38861, Wagner F128681, Bendix 78121)
 
Geez, thanks again guys, really appreciate the help, just so you all know the hard lines did not come off well no matter how long I soaked them in a penetrating liquid, no not WD 40, broke all three at the flare nut, any brain waves for that dopey move?
 
Napa has a flare wrench that is a must have - 3/8" 7/16" me thinks. This wrench wraps almost all the way around the nut. Those nuts have a tendency to round like Roseanne Barr at a fudge shop.
 
i feel yur pain. i have been tryin to get mine off for three freekin weeks. i hit it with some penatrating lube and try it over and over. feels like its rounding everytime. i really don't wanna break the dang thing.
 
Vise Grips are your friend... I removed two front hoses yesterday that have been together for 19 years. I've been PB Blastering them for weeks too... 3/8" flare wrench just pissed them off (it may be a metric flare nut?) A sharp pair of VGs and they came loose
 
Had the same situation as Woody...hoses and lines were 17 years together and the flair wrench did not help...had to resort to the good old Vise Grips. Looks ugly but who's going to look!
 
Yes, my flare nut wrench just made them ornery, like my wife, lol. I ended up using VG's but the nut was too far gone and rusted to the steel line. Any solutions guys, can they be bridged or is the solution new steel lines right up to the valve,(not my #1 choice). Just want to get this bitch back on the road but not looking that way before winter. Oh well! The jeep that is not my wife. HA!
 
Unfortunately you have two choices.

#1 new steel lines & flare nuts
#2 new flare nuts and re-flare the existing steel lines (cut it off as low as possible)

Not clear how the old/rusty line will take to being flared though. New lines may be the best way. You will need a flaring tool that does 'double flares'
 
craftsman makes a good line wrench just for this,but if you can get ahold of a snapon dealer they have flank drive wrenches best wrench ive ever turned hands down
 
Woo Hoo! got mine off today (no vise grips either) (musta' been the beer), and got my new lines on the front. Now i have a question (not to steal the thread). after bleeding everything, i turned on the engine and the anti lock break light was on, and there was a vibration on the peddle. i pumped a few times and shut off the ignition. restarted it and pumped some more and the light went out. everything feels fine now brakes feel good also, but makes me question if i need to go and re-bleed? i have never actually blead an ABS system B4. i searched through probly 100 old threads and nothing about ABS. so is there anything special about bleeding ABS or am i good to go?
 
how about the rear

i made some homemade leafs and now the brakes are f*cked

wats a cheap way to extend the rear

:us: :us: :us: :us: :us: :us: :us: :us: :us: :us: :us: :us: :us: :us:

god bless america

have a good 4th

and drive safe
 
If you mean the rubber part, a '95 YJ Wrangler hose is a few inches longer than XJ, and supposedly the Dodge Dakota hose is a couple longer than the YJ. You can also unhook & reroute the union with the (upper) steel line to gain some free length.
 
Kinda adding to what Woody has said...

Sounds like the brake line broke at the nut. Not an unuasual experience. I never seem to get to own a vehicle which is new, so I always have had to deal with this stuff.

A torch and penetrating oil sometimes is a good way to start these jobs. Soak, heat, resoak, reheat, then use a line wrench. No line wrench, the the vice grips comes out.
Same with bleeders, except I use a socket on a 1/4" drive so the handle isn't real long and I twist off the bleeder.

When recovering from the problem the Poster has himself into, I buy a long pc of line with fittings, another male and a female union. Some folks use a compression fitting, but that isn't kosher. If you a real dolt at flairing lines though, it is an option.

Cut the existing line at a convenient spot with good line slide the male fitting over it and double flair it. It may take a couple of tries, so be patient. Now add the coupler, and fish the new line to where it needs to go. DO NOT use a wrench to make bends as it will kink the line. Bends should be gradual. They make a tool for this, but I generally just use my thumb. Couple the line to the old line and BAM, you have a line repair.

Rear line you can extend with a YJ line.
For short lifts you can (as the front) relocate the union of the hard line and hose. If you need a guide, IIRC Ed Stevens has a write up on how to extend your brake lines this way, and Rusty's sells a reloaction kit.
I have had my trucks up to 5.5" of lift and have never had to replace the hoses, just relocated them.
 
mojojojo said:
Woo Hoo! got mine off today (no vise grips either) (musta' been the beer), and got my new lines on the front. Now i have a question (not to steal the thread). after bleeding everything, i turned on the engine and the anti lock break light was on, and there was a vibration on the peddle. i pumped a few times and shut off the ignition. restarted it and pumped some more and the light went out. everything feels fine now brakes feel good also, but makes me question if i need to go and re-bleed? i have never actually blead an ABS system B4. i searched through probly 100 old threads and nothing about ABS. so is there anything special about bleeding ABS or am i good to go?

just curiouse if anyone read this or has any imput? thanks
 
I'm not too up on ABS, so take this with a grain of salt (Well, maybe a big old rock of it!). Is it possible that you may have knocked the wheel sensor wiring loose or perhaps did some damage to the sensor while removing the brake line? As far as I know, there isn't any difference in the method of bleeding the brakes between ABS and non-ABS.

Hope this helps :)

Pat
 
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