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Best Years for XJ's around $4000?

Double Down

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
If there is a post about this somewhere, let me know, but I have a friend who is in the market for an XJ and he has about $4000 or less to spend on one. I told him I would try to find out what years he should look for and what years he should stay away from.

In addition, if you recommend certain years, are there things that he should make sure to check out and verify is good on the Jeep before he purchases it?

Thanks,

Chris
 
I do not know them as much as others but I would shoot for a HP d30, chr8.25 w/ 29 spline axles(later models) 4.0 ho, aw4, tranny cooler, nice gauge cluster w/ tach, maybe even get lucky and get one with the factory lmt slip,and a overhead console. Those r things I would try to get, if older model then you might could even score one with a d44 but they r harder to find. Hope that helped some, I would also say to steer clear of any rust buckets. JOE>
 
Double Down said:
Thanks for the info, now I just need to find out which years carried the d30/8.25. I am guessing 97 and up since my 97 has it, but what other years?

Thanks,

Chris

96 and up.

cheers,

jj
 
My base model/no ABS 95 has the 8.25, as does my 99 and my son's 96. My daughter's 93 Sport with no ABS has a D35. This suggests that the change is somewhere between 93 and 95 for non-ABS models.

As far as other things to check, rust is the obvious one, along with signs of abuse or damage, and otherwise, I think it really depends on taste to some extent. My 95 has been phenomenally reliable, but the tinworm has pretty much eaten it to death. The 99 has been fine too, but it's about a hundred thousand miles behind the 95, having just turned 161K, so time will tell. Each has some pluses and some minuses. I don't like the storage in the new design. If you use your handbrake, you'll like the 97+ improvement there. The later steering column and wiper controls are nicer than the 95-86 Chrysler design. I prefer the seats and steering column controls on 87-94 to the later ones, but not enough to avoid a later one in better condition. My 87 Pioneer had the most comfortable long-distance seats of any vehicle I've ever had, but both the 95 and 99 are decent.

In the under-4000 category, you'd do best, I think, to shop for overall condition and rust. Ignore the fancy options unless all other things are equal. Simple can be better on an older rig anyway, and even if you get one with no gauges, etc., these are things that are easier to upgrade or correct than a glitzy one with a bad drivetrain or serious rust.
 
91-95 with HO, AW4. Get it for 1-2K, then spend the money of a good rear axle , lift and armor.
I'm into my 91 for under 4k with the RE 6200 5.5" lift, Locked dana 44 with 4.10's front/rear on 31's. Mine's a limited too, so it has leather and full power everything. :)
 
Matthew Currie said:
My base model/no ABS 95 has the 8.25, as does my 99 and my son's 96. My daughter's 93 Sport with no ABS has a D35. This suggests that the change is somewhere between 93 and 95 for non-ABS models.

As far as other things to check, rust is the obvious one, along with signs of abuse or damage, and otherwise, I think it really depends on taste to some extent. My 95 has been phenomenally reliable, but the tinworm has pretty much eaten it to death. The 99 has been fine too, but it's about a hundred thousand miles behind the 95, having just turned 161K, so time will tell. Each has some pluses and some minuses. I don't like the storage in the new design. If you use your handbrake, you'll like the 97+ improvement there. The later steering column and wiper controls are nicer than the 95-86 Chrysler design. I prefer the seats and steering column controls on 87-94 to the later ones, but not enough to avoid a later one in better condition. My 87 Pioneer had the most comfortable long-distance seats of any vehicle I've ever had, but both the 95 and 99 are decent.

In the under-4000 category, you'd do best, I think, to shop for overall condition and rust. Ignore the fancy options unless all other things are equal. Simple can be better on an older rig anyway, and even if you get one with no gauges, etc., these are things that are easier to upgrade or correct than a glitzy one with a bad drivetrain or serious rust.

Avoid the early ABS models, or plan on pulling it for a non ABS MC. 95-96 dual boosters with MC's and pedal are a bolt in upgrade, need to rebend/reflare something like 2 brake lines. I did this on my 91, got it cheap to begin with as the rear main was leaking like a sieve, and the ABS had issues, resulting in huge repair bills the previous owner didn't want to pay.

As for rust, that's an option on cars back east right? :) I'm from Iowa originally and it's worth it to find something from the southwest where things don't rust. It's also worth it to have a winter POS. Just an opinion, but I've located cars out here for friends in Iowa. My buddy drove out with an engine/trans with another guy and we installed it out here and he drove the car home. He was questioning it at first, but when he was able to crawl underneath, break a bolt loose then unscrew it by hand he had no doubts it was worth it. Even having someone locate something and shipping it back east is worth it.
 
markw said:
Avoid the early ABS models, or plan on pulling it for a non ABS MC. 95-96 dual boosters with MC's and pedal are a bolt in upgrade, need to rebend/reflare something like 2 brake lines. I did this on my 91, got it cheap to begin with as the rear main was leaking like a sieve, and the ABS had issues, resulting in huge repair bills the previous owner didn't want to pay.

As for rust, that's an option on cars back east right? :) I'm from Iowa originally and it's worth it to find something from the southwest where things don't rust. It's also worth it to have a winter POS. Just an opinion, but I've located cars out here for friends in Iowa. My buddy drove out with an engine/trans with another guy and we installed it out here and he drove the car home. He was questioning it at first, but when he was able to crawl underneath, break a bolt loose then unscrew it by hand he had no doubts it was worth it. Even having someone locate something and shipping it back east is worth it.


Oh yeah, forgot all about ABS and early brakes! You can make an older one stop, but the 95 and 99 are certainly better than the 87. I've managed to avoid all ABS so far, so it never crossed my mind.
 
$4k will open a lot of cherokee doors but it would be smart to leave a little in the kitty for repairs, if needed, or travel to and from, if required. Rust, body condition, engine and drivetrain should be top issues to resolve (not in any order but rather lumped together). Interior condition will say alot about previous owners but it is just cosmetic and can be swapped out. Previous owners usuage of the cherokee can help you make a decision and fortunately there are a couple million cherokee owners out there, many of whom did not climb the Rockies with their units. Tack this advice on to everything said previously in the above posts and start your search. If you are mechanical, your options increase greatly. I paid $700 for a 96xj with front end damage and low miles. A couple grand later and I could not be happier with the results. Have fun and keep at it.
 
Matthew Currie said:
My base model/no ABS 95 has the 8.25, as does my 99 and my son's 96. My daughter's 93 Sport with no ABS has a D35. This suggests that the change is somewhere between 93 and 95 for non-ABS models.
improvement there.
The 8.25 came with the XJs with non abs. The later model 8.25s have the 29 spline which is the best stock axle that you can get. Minus the 44.
 
Here's my standard answer...although I didn't end up with what I exactly wanted, I scraficed a few things for the price

I would get the 97+ with the 8.25 rear end. This will give you a 29 spline axle that is reportedly almost as strong as a D44. As far as the transfer case, it depends on what your application is going to be. If you want to drive in 4hi on the street (even in snow and rain) I would go with the NP242 because it gives you a full time option. If you only want to use your XJ for off road, then the NP231 is a good choice becuase there are a few 4 to 1 options for it (note: there may be some 242 options, but I am about as new as this guy, so I haven't looked for em yet) If you can get it, get one that had the FACTORY towing package. This will give you the possibility of 3.73 gears..which isn't great if you are planning to go big, but it is better than the normal 3.55 (for the manual transmission).

In summary:

Look for 0331 casting number on the head = Bad (1999 only)
Engine: 4.0 L
Transmission: AW4 (automatic is what I preffer)
Transfer Case: NP242 - "Selec-Trac" (NP231 is fine too depending on your application)
Front Axle: Dana 30 (no choice)
Rear Axle: Chry 8.25 (97+ had 29 spline, <97 had 27)
Gears: 3.73 (towing package)
Stock Armor (although I've heard mixed reviews on their durability)
 
I payed 4G for my ride with 145,000 mile's on it. It was garaged (untill that POS trailblazer he bought kicked it out, which I might add he regretted after owning the XJ), yknow when someone take's care of their car is when they smoke and dont actually smoke in their car. He bought it new, then sold it to the company he worked for so they could pay for all the maitnece so it was worked on and kept in good condition (as I found out when I changed the diff's transfer case and tranny all new oil) As for the car it is black, 4.0L, AX-15, NP-231 D30/C8.25 3.07 all stock when I bought it with the exception of a Kenwood tape player. Basic 'sport model' with crank window's ect. It's all fine with me I dont sit in the back anyhow ;) , sometime's I feel like I over payed for me Jeep then again this is Maine I looked for 2 month's and they are either too much, or too rusted..now it's time to find a winter beater so I can drop the stroker in my baby :)
 
splitz said:
Here's my standard answer...although I didn't end up with what I exactly wanted, I scraficed a few things for the price

I would get the 97+ with the 8.25 rear end. This will give you a 29 spline axle that is reportedly almost as strong as a D44. As far as the transfer case, it depends on what your application is going to be. If you want to drive in 4hi on the street (even in snow and rain) I would go with the NP242 because it gives you a full time option. If you only want to use your XJ for off road, then the NP231 is a good choice becuase there are a few 4 to 1 options for it (note: there may be some 242 options, but I am about as new as this guy, so I haven't looked for em yet) If you can get it, get one that had the FACTORY towing package. This will give you the possibility of 3.73 gears..which isn't great if you are planning to go big, but it is better than the normal 3.55 (for the manual transmission).

In summary:

Look for 0331 casting number on the head = Bad (1999 only)
Engine: 4.0 L
Transmission: AW4 (automatic is what I preffer)
Transfer Case: NP242 - "Selec-Trac" (NP231 is fine too depending on your application)
Front Axle: Dana 30 (no choice)
Rear Axle: Chry 8.25 (97+ had 29 spline, <97 had 27)
Gears: 3.73 (towing package)
Stock Armor (although I've heard mixed reviews on their durability)



I would love for somebody to show me a late model 97+ with 3.73's from the factory. My 98 came with both the towing and off-road packages and it still had 3.55's with the auto. I don't believe you could order the tow package and a manual together, but jeep has done some very strange things.
 
CartsXJ said:
I would love for somebody to show me a late model 97+ with 3.73's from the factory.

Me too! I searched and searched, but to no avail. Every xj had 3.55s, even the ones with the towing package. I think this one may be an XJ myth.
 
Picked up my 98 XJ Sport for $4700 (private seller), Power windows, locks, A/C, and Up Country Pkg.

Could have gotten it for a tad less, but it had EVERYTHING I wanted, Bone stock and very clean, so I made one good offer and he took it.

Here it is on Holy Cross trail in Colorado.

HolyCrossL-Day0659.jpg


HolyCrossL-Day0657.jpg
 
Watch the xfer cases, the 242 is a good case, but if you're planning on lifting it, SYE's for the 242 are pricey. You can do a hack-n-tap, but the 231 case enjoys better aftermarket support. 91-95 HO's are a dime a dozen out here on the left coast and can be found all day for 2k or less for a clean one.
 
Another factor to consider was that in 94 side impact beams were added and the roof was strengthened, and then in 1996 they strengthened the body again. In 1997 they redesigned it.
 
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