So I was looking into some of my exhaust leaks today and I fixed them all but one. I've got a 4.0 and a Doug Thorley header and can't seem to torque that pesky bolt in the rear. Does anyone have any great ideas/tool combo's that might work besides pulling the motor to torque it? I've tried just about everything I can think of and its still throwing me for a loop.
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can't torque rear bolt on header flange...any ideas?
- Thread starter 53guy
- Start date
lilredwagn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- South Carolina
Get under the vehicle and reach up with a box end (worked on my Leach header)
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
I use a 9/16" socket with an inbuilt universal joint to get RIGHT ON the thing - you get about an extra inch or so of "back clearance" over a universal joint with attached socket that way, and it makes a HUGE difference...
I have also found something similar for the CPS to come in handy - that one's a 7/16"
You can usually sub 14m/m for 9/16" and 11m/m for 7/16"
Here's what you're looking for...
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...rtical=TOOL&subcat=Sockets&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
(In case the link don't work - try searching sears.com for "Flex Socket")
They can be had individually or in sets - and the two you're going to use most are the sizes I just gave you.
5-90
I have also found something similar for the CPS to come in handy - that one's a 7/16"
You can usually sub 14m/m for 9/16" and 11m/m for 7/16"
Here's what you're looking for...
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...rtical=TOOL&subcat=Sockets&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
(In case the link don't work - try searching sears.com for "Flex Socket")
They can be had individually or in sets - and the two you're going to use most are the sizes I just gave you.
5-90
anony91xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Jersey
53guy said:
Just the good old German torque spec, Gootentight. You don't need to use a torque wrench on those bolts.
Every bolt has a torque spec, but in 95% of cases, just tight will work. There's a torque spec for the oil pan drain plug too, but I bet you don't bust out a torque wrench when you do an oil change now, do ya?
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
No conversion, no change. You only need to convert torque values when using a "torque adapter" (essentially allowing for an offset mount of the socket on the ratchet drive pawl,) a "crowfoot" wrench (looks like an open-end wrench with a square drive hole,) or when using never-seez, grease, or engine oil on bolts (NOT LocTite - it's a "special case." For this job, I recommend LocTite #272 - nothing else really works.)
Conversion values for torque adapters and crowfoot wrenches should be given with the tool. For lubricants, use the following:
Engine Oil/Grease - "Clean, Dry" less 25%
Teflon Paste - "Clean, Dry" less 30-35%
Never-Seez - "Clean, Dry" less 55%
"Clean, Dry" refers to the usual torque value given, which is for "clean, dry" threads. That is what is assumed UNLESS the manual calls out for something to be applied - like the harmonic damper bolt (clean engine oil) or the #11 cylinder head bolt on the AMC242 (Teflon paste or equivalent.)
Thread-locking compounds are formulated to NOT significantly effect friction, and therefore to NOT significantly effect preload stress values with "nominal" torque figures. Therefore, the "clean, dry" torque values may be used unaltered with threadlocking compounds of pretty much any sort.
5-90
Conversion values for torque adapters and crowfoot wrenches should be given with the tool. For lubricants, use the following:
Engine Oil/Grease - "Clean, Dry" less 25%
Teflon Paste - "Clean, Dry" less 30-35%
Never-Seez - "Clean, Dry" less 55%
"Clean, Dry" refers to the usual torque value given, which is for "clean, dry" threads. That is what is assumed UNLESS the manual calls out for something to be applied - like the harmonic damper bolt (clean engine oil) or the #11 cylinder head bolt on the AMC242 (Teflon paste or equivalent.)
Thread-locking compounds are formulated to NOT significantly effect friction, and therefore to NOT significantly effect preload stress values with "nominal" torque figures. Therefore, the "clean, dry" torque values may be used unaltered with threadlocking compounds of pretty much any sort.
5-90
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
anony91xj said:Just the good old German torque spec, Gootentight. You don't need to use a torque wrench on those bolts.
Every bolt has a torque spec, but in 95% of cases, just tight will work. There's a torque spec for the oil pan drain plug too, but I bet you don't bust out a torque wrench when you do an oil change now, do ya?
True, to a point. I don't use a torque wrench with doing an oil change - just a 9/16" box will do. I also coat the threads on the bolt with RTV Black, just to make me more comfortable.
However, manifold and such should DEFINITELY be torqued to spec, since you'd like to keep a seal there. Failing to do so can result in inconsistent clamp loads, warped mating surfaces, and poor sealing. Some things you just shouldn't dork around with, y'know?
The reason for the torque spec on the oil sump and valve cover is for another reason - it's so you don't "crush out" the gasket while installing it.
5-90
anony91xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Jersey
5-90 said:
You're obviously pretty anal about working on your Jeeps, which is fine, but RTV on the drain plug is going somewhere I've never even concieved of before
I've replaced loads of Jeep manifolds in Cherokees and Grand Cherokees. Never used a torque wrench, never had one come back with a gasket leak. A skilled mechanic should be able to tighten down a simple gasket like a Jeep manifold or valvecover without a torque wrench and not have a problem.
On more complicated intake gasket designs, such as some ones with rubber and plastic inserts and two pieces, you have to use the torque spec and torque the bolts in the proper order for a good seal.
With a good torque wrench costing $250-350 at least, I prefer to use it only when needed, and not wear it out by using it on bolts where it's not needed.
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5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
anony91xj said:You're obviously pretty anal about working on your Jeeps, which is fine, but RTV on the drain plug is going somewhere I've never even concieved of before
I've replaced loads of Jeep manifolds in Cherokees and Grand Cherokees. Never used a torque wrench, never had one come back with a gasket leak. A skilled mechanic should be able to tighten down a simple gasket like a Jeep manifold or valvecover without a torque wrench and not have a problem.
On more complicated intake gasket designs, such as some ones with rubber and plastic inserts and two pieces, you have to use the torque spec and torque the bolts in the proper order for a good seal.
With a good torque wrench costing $250-350 at least, I prefer to use it only when needed, and not wear it out by using it on bolts where it's not needed.
Well, I was an industrial mechanic for a while. I have yet to see ANYWHERE that engines are more purely abused than in forklifts, believe you me. If you'd seen some of the things that I've seen...
A "skilled mechanic" should have no trouble doing a sump gasket or a valve cover - I don't - but I like the extra assurance. I also own a decent selection of torque wrenches in various drive sizes and scales, and I select the right tool for the job. If I'm working on an oil sump (84 pound-inches and 132 pound-inches,) I'm certainly not going to grab my big honkin' 200 pound-foot "front end" wrench.
Same with anything else - you wouldn't use a sledgehammer to drive finishing nails, would you? It can be done, but it's not recommended (and damn klutzy while you're about it.)
Perhaps I'm anal - it was finding out that I enjoyed precision that got me into engine work and machine work years ago. But, when I fix something it STAYS fixed - so I must be doing something right...:laugh3:
Besides, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing correctly, no? I might modify procedures to improve them, but if I'm going to do something, it's going to be DONE.
5-90
