Clutch Master Cylinder

The other day I was driving into town when I noticed my foot was wet, the clutch mater cylinder completely drained out thru the firewall all over the fuse box and the carpet...So how do I replace this thing? I'm going to pick up the new one in the morning but it looks pretty self explanitory. Remove steel pressure line, unbolt clutch pedal linkage, remove from firewall, is that all?

Thanks for the help

The Brakes over the fuse box is in not?
Either way you need to wash all the fluid off of the fuse box or it will ruin it.

langer1 said:

The Brakes over the fuse box is in not?
Either way you need to wash all the fluid off of the fuse box or it will ruin it.

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Well it's leaking past the one o-ring on the Clutch Master Cylinder and down the shaft to where the angle on the clutch linkage is on the fuse box then dripping down. I kinda figured that it would wreck the fuse box, electronics and brake fluid don't mix well...

Its been my experience that you should replace both the master and slave at the same time. Especially if you have an external slave. If you get them at the same time usually they will come with fluid in them and you won't have to worry about bleeding. It shouldn't take you more than 10 mins to remove and replace both at the same time.

kooters94yj said:

Its been my experience that you should replace both the master and slave at the same time. Especially if you have an external slave. If you get them at the same time usually they will come with fluid in them and you won't have to worry about bleeding. It shouldn't take you more than 10 mins to remove and replace both at the same time.

Click to expand...

Then how do I do the slave cylinder as well? So what should the complete set/kit cost, $100?

if you have an internal slave you have to drop the trans to do it. While you're in there you might as well do the throout bearing pilot bearing and clutch.
If it's an external slave model then the master/slave assembly will come as one unit.
If you have an internal one then the master and hose will unbolt. I had to do the hose and master on my 87 after I got it.
It's as simple as you say, unbolt the clutch pedal. Loosen the bolts holding the master to the firewall, it makes getting the hose off a whole lot easier. Removed clutch master.
Replacement is just the opposite. Once again, leave the bolts loose until you get the hose attached. Then just tighten up the bolts. I believe that one goes in from the engine compartment, and the other goes in from the passenger compartment. The one that goes in from the engine compartment is a PITA, becuase you've got to get your hand up in there to get the nut on it. If you have a helper it would be so much easier. Have them hold the bolt in place. I ended up wedgeing something in there to keep it from moving while I was trying to get the nut on.

1990 has internal slave, so i would definately NOT replace it now. do that with the clutch if you ever have to. clutch master is bout 30 bucks (depends on where you go pep boys said 70 then gave me the wrong part increasing my hate for them, had to drive 10 miles out the way to go to a REAL autopart store)

anyways. bout a hour long chore inlcuding bleeding the system, really easy, just need a second person to help bleed.

The system was bone dry when I started and if I had the right tools it would have only taken about 30 minutes. I pumped the clutch pedal about 100 times to get pressure back in the system BUT with the NEW clutch master cylinder I have to push the pedal down a little bit further than before for the clutch to kick in, on the other hand it shifts smoother and drives better overall than it ever has.

I noticed alot of really fine air bubbles after I went for a quick drive so I'm guessing that's just air coming out of the system.

BTW-How do I get all of that brake fluid out of the fuse box?

Pull all the fuses/relays/CB's and spray the block with brake cleaner. Then wipe with clean rag. Do the same with the parts you pulled. Should be OK after that.