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rustoleum question

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
Can someone tell me if the hammered paint can be clear coated?I ask this because I'm in the middle of painting my xj with the gray hammered spray paint....I have my rear bumper painted with black hammered and noticed that after a year the gloss sheen was gone and I don't want the same thing to happen to the whole truck.Has anyone else noticed the gloss going away from hammered paint?
 
If using a Rustoleum clear I wouldn't bother to scuff as long as you treat it like a second coat and apply within an hour of the hammered. After it cures though, it would be best to run 400 over it.

The gloss fades from UV exposure.
 
I wonder if I apply armorall to it would it keep the gloss from fading.....I have formula 2000 made by turtle wax and it is supposed to have uv block in it so maybe it'll block the rays???Maybe I'll wipe it down with some sun block lotion...lol

Is there anything I can apply to the paint to keep it from becomming chalky?what about keeping it waxed????

It's too late to treat the clear like a second coat because I already have the roof and hood done and its already cured.Is it absolutely necessary to scuff it to apply clear?Do you think the clear would lift if I don't scuff paint?

I need to figure out what to do because I would be really sore if this paint fades and turns chalky!!!
Wow that was alot of questions....I shouldn't have had so many cups of coffee...
Thanks.
 
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Clear coat can only be use with paint base made for clear coating.
Clear coat is not just clear paint.
The base paint has the Hardner and the top coat is the resin.
Clear coat will just peel off of none clear coat base.
 
They have a solvent thats called glaze remover, next best thing to sanding. It takes the shine off of a base coat before applying another coat. Try a small batch (a corner or something) before you do a larga area. It may want to soften the base paint and may want to lift it or it may crinckle.
Adding layers to paint can be an iffy thing. They dry and shrink at different rates and the top coat can soften the base coat and cause all sorts of grief.
I've had pretty good luck with Vecto Urethane satin on painted rims (kind of a half gloss clear). Though I've never tried it on paint newer than a couple of months old. I haven't tried the Urethane gloss clear as a top coat.
Most of the Rustolium paints I've used cure slow, much like an old fashioned enamel, the older it gets the harder it gets (it keeps on shrinking and curing for years).
You might want to try a polishing compound and see if the dullness isn't just in the very top of the paint. Not rubbing compound, but polishing compound. Read the label, if it is Polishing compound for clear coat, it is likely fine enough for anything. I've got various kinds of Dupont polishing compound in different grits, you can often get some good results on fadded paint. I'd use a soft rag folded in layers (moist to almost wet) and keep in mind the edges of the hammer indentations is likely the first place to rub through, don't overdo it, good enough is often better than perfect. Trying for perfect often leads to catastrophy.
I've had pretty good luck with silicon based paint coatings (like wax) to freshen up an old paint job, many also have UV protection in the formula. I'm partial to black cars, they get milky easy, the silicon coatings often work well for me.
 
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Ok I don't think I'm going to risk clear coating it.I think I'll wait untill it cures all the way and try the silicone wax treatment.Somebody have a wax brand they can recommend that has silicone and uv blocker in it?
 
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