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bleeding clutch master cyl?

T

Tre

NAXJA Forum User
Location
canada
Hey guy's, can someone describe the proper procedure for bleeding a clutch master cyl in a jeep? its a 88 cherokee but i'm pretty sure the bleeding procedure is probably the same across the board.

i got the new master all installed...

now what?

i tried bleeding it with a vacuum pump. this is what i did. someone let me know if i went wrong somewhere.

1. filled resevoir.
2. crawled underneith and cracked bleeder open and let fluid start dripping out.
3. hooked up vacuum pump and started sucking fluid threw while a buddy kept the resevior topped up.

looked like i got all the air bubbles out. closed bleeder up and mad sure resevior was at full mark. hopped in the vehicle. and the pedal has about 1/4 play at the top before i feel pressure. i started it up and tried shifting gears and well it don't shift too smoothly i'll tell ya that much.

did i go wrong somewhere? did i need to pump the clutch pedal at some point in the bleeding proceedure?
 
Vacuum bleeding worked for me after all my other efforts failed.
Before Vaccum I had tried the pump and hold method and gravity bleeding.
How much fluid did you pull with the vaccum pump?
I had built my own electric vacuum bleeder and I had to pul a lot of fluid before my clutch acted normally. 2 big bottles of brake fluid is what it took for me.
Might also try reverse bleeding it. A large fluid pump atached to the bleeder and force fluid UP the line into the master. Keep at it, it took 2 days for me to get mine bled properly after I replaced the hose and master. It's worked fine for 6 months now.
 
ya actually thats how i filled the system. i forced fluid up the bleeder up the line and into the resevior. i then vacuum bled it and put about 3/4 quart of fluid threw vacuum bleeding it.

one question. may be a dumb one. but should the clutch pedal be engaged when bleeding? or disengaged?

cuz i've been doing it will its been disengaged (up)
 
When I replaced my clutch MC, I used the "push the pedal" and "open the bleeder" approach; just like bleeding brakes. That worked fine for me.
 
Did you bench bleed it first ?
 
no... its a clutch master cyl. not a brake master cyl.

i assumed there was no bench bleeding involved with a clutch master cyl. *shrug*
 
Tre said:
no... its a clutch master cyl. not a brake master cyl.

i assumed there was no bench bleeding involved with a clutch master cyl. *shrug*
Click to expand...

Whoops, misread to quickly....the last two clutch slaves we got were already loaded and ready to go.
 
was reading in the fsm to compress slave cylinder plunger by pushing release lever as far forward as possible.

does this apply to a peugeot equip't xj? not sure how i go about doing this.
 
Slave cylinder on an '88 is inside the bell housing--there is no mechanical connection between the clutch pedal and the slave. Latter XJ's had an external slave pushing on a clutch arm coming out of the side of the bell housing. Try bleeding the old fashion way; worked for me.
 
so heres a update.
spent a good couple hrs yesterday trying to bleed the thing. between vacuum bleeding, then tried the old tube, jar and pumping pedal routine. and NOTHING.

went out this morning. gave it another 2hr worth of pedal pumping. and it seems as if there were steady air bubbles comming out. but i'm thinking that its attributed to my clear hose not fitting totally tight over the bleeder nipple. so after 2hr of bleeding like that i figured shit its gotta have the air out now. hop in pump up clutch pedal. STILL MUSHY! So i'm about to throw a wrench threw the window at this point. :D decide f'it i'll just let it gravity bleed. bled about 1qt threw gravity method. closed bleeder and topped res. hopped in. HOLY SHIT ITS A MIRACLE! firm clutch pedal. and its disengaging properly now!

just thought i'd post my results for everyone seeing most threads are left hanging.

thanks for all the info and help guys!
 
Glad to here you finally got it. If you were seeing air bubbles when using the "pump and hold" method, more than likely there was air. Using the vacume method definitely can suck air from arround the bleeder screw threads. This doesn't cause air to get into the system, just leaves you wondering if you got all of the air out. I've noted different people have very definite ideas on how to pump when bleeding brakes (hydraulics are hydraulics). Some say none--just a slow pressure on the pedal; some say 4-5 fast pumps and hold??? Some say fast pumping causes air, while some say fast pumping causes the air bubbles to break free.

Any way, thanks for the follow-up.
 
I'm going to resurrect this old thread. Where is/how do you access the bleeder for the Puegot trannys? I've got to replace my MC in the next few weeks. A heads up would help before I start.

I have a feeling I'll have to take the skid plates off again- PITA.
 
My experience is with the AX-15, but probably similar. On the side of the bellhousing that the hydraulic hose is on you'll see another fitting poking out. Mine did not have a bleeder in it, just a plug. I put a brake bleeder fitting in it and went to town.
 
87manche said:
My experience is with the AX-15, but probably similar. On the side of the bellhousing that the hydraulic hose is on you'll see another fitting poking out. Mine did not have a bleeder in it, just a plug. I put a brake bleeder fitting in it and went to town.
Click to expand...

You have a picture of that? Looking at mine the other day... it looks like just a hole in the side where the Hydrolic hose meets the tranny
 
no good pictures on my photobucket.

it was a small bit of steel line with a flare end pitting. It had what looked to be a brake bleeder but it didn't have a hole in it. I replaced it with a random brake bleeder that I found in the garage, I think it came from an old D35 wheel cylinder
 
Mine has been changed a few times by a transmission shop. But, this time, I'm doing it myself. Found the Wagner MC for mine on Amazon for $15 after shopping around (including shipping). So, I expect it has a bleeder somewhere near the bell housing somewhere.
 
Last edited:
Really good time for BASICS--year/engine, external or internal slave.

The clutch MC isn't really bled like a brake MC.
 
I gravity bled my 87 with a peugeot BA10/5 just opened the bleeder and watched it untill the fluid was flowing out real good
 
I've got an 87xj. First thing I did was replace the old wore out clutch master. Was a pain to get to the line in the back but once all was changed out I had a buddy come over & help me bleed the clutch. The line bleed is off the bell on the drivers side. Just pump pump hold & bleed... Worked perfect for me. Did the same thing when flushing the old sludge out of the brake system too.

Autozone wanted $50some so I went to Kraigen/O'Riely's and picked it up for $30. Good deal on the one from Amazon.
 
Thanks guys. I'll try both ways on mine and see which works the best. I'll be doing it myself, so gravity bleeding would make life easy. I'll crawl under there this week and look to see if I find the bleeder.

Ya, couldn't pass up the inexpensive Wagner MC. I thought of getting one with a lifetime warranty, but the price at my local AZ wouldn't pay off unless I replace it 4 times. So, I gambled.
 
Last edited:
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