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Ball Joint Press...

fdsa487 said:
Do y'all think its a good idea to replace the u-joints while im doing the ball joints on both sides? There is nothing wrong with the u-joints at this point.
Did you take the axle shafts out? If not, then how do you know that there is nothing wrong with the ujoints? ;)
 
Kejtar said:
Did you take the axle shafts out? If not, then how do you know that there is nothing wrong with the ujoints? ;)

Well I did 'my little test' where I turn the wheel all the way to the left and spin that tire with no binding or resistance. Then repeat on the other side. I'll check em out though when I do the ball joints this weekend.
 
well, when a ujoint breaks, it often breaks a shaft and sometimes a balljoint..


since your that far into it, why NOT replace them, just in case?

You dont want to end up looking like this poor sap..

balljoint2.jpg

balljoint3.jpg

balljoint4.jpg
 
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Stock shafts or alloy?

If your on stock shafts, I'd get Spicer 760 joints and grind the shafts a bit to let you install full circle clips - you should be able to find a writeup here.

if your running aftermarket shafts, spring for some aftermarket ujoints.. either CTM, OX or longfield..
 
cal said:
Stock shafts or alloy?

If your on stock shafts, I'd get Spicer 760 joints and grind the shafts a bit to let you install full circle clips - you should be able to find a writeup here.

if your running aftermarket shafts, spring for some aftermarket ujoints.. either CTM, OX or longfield..

Dang it... Well the dude that had the vehicle before me did some axel mods. Installed gears and lockers front and back. I do not know if they are stock or alloy. Im going to assume that they are stock.

I have seen another cherokee same year and everything else and it looked like their u-joints were smaller than the ones I have in there. How much griding is necessary? Dremmel tool?
 
yeah, dremel. the 'inside' of the ear doesnt have enough room for the full circle clips stock. i'll see if i can find a writeup after lunch and post it back to this thread, unless someone else speaks up first.
 
try driveline shops. Most auto parts stores dont carry spicer brand anymore.
 
Ok... cool so I have all my stuff to do the ball joint job. I want to do the U-joints. What is the best u joint that I can get for my D30 without having to modify anything to fit the 760 Spicer joint?

I called a shop and they said that I could not be done without a special machine, but I think they are pulling my chain. They said bring the axel shafts to them and the will do both for $65. BS Anyways is he right or can it be done with a pretty standard garage full of tools?
 
fdsa487 said:
What is the best u joint that I can get for my D30 without having to modify anything to fit the 760 Spicer joint?

Huh?? I think you answered your own question. :) Stock shafts? Just stick with the 760.
 
xjohnnyc said:
Huh?? I think you answered your own question. :) Stock shafts? Just stick with the 760.

OK so stock shafts will accommodate a Spicer 760. Thank you.

What about any special toold required? Umm also (sinse I have never done it) do I have to replace the axel shaft seals if I pull them?
 
fdsa487 said:
OK so stock shafts will accommodate a Spicer 760. Thank you.
Spicer 760 is the way to go and if you don't mind grinding about 10 minutes per ear of the shaft you can make it a full circle clip setup which makes it a LOT stronger solution overall.
 
GSequoia said:
Okay, proceed with the 760x joints.

Hopefully last question.
So im going to have to do a little grinding to get those in there, right? One guy at a shop i called said "if you grind it out to fit those you just turned it into junk" (East County Driveshaft)

I trust y'all so that is what I will probably do it go with the 760's.

Where can i get it online and have it by tomorrow?

What is the spicer number that I use if I didn't want to grind?

Where can I get it online and have it by tomorrow?

:flipoff:
 
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