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Has anyone installed their own SYE?

D

Dann

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Fla
And if so, what is involved, any machine work or clearance issues? Is it a pretty much disassemble, replace components, and reassemble in reverse order? Can it be done with the t-case still mounted to the tranny? Any and all advice appreciated.
TIA, Dann
 
I did mine on my 98. It took a couple of hours. Did it with Xfercase in vehicle. Make sure you get the correct tool for removing that snapring. Read the procedure a couple of time beforehand and keep them handy.
 
not bad at all I like doing it with it out of the vehicle though. Just my opinion.
 
Who's kit did you guys use? And about that snapring tool? I have a BFH and a torch. Will that work. Just kiddin'. Standard snapring pliers won't work, eh? Where did you get the special snapring tool from, and how much $$ for it? I've never played around in a transfer case, but figure if I can build an engine that stays together, I'll manage. Thanks, Dann
 
I used the AA kit and did it with the t-case removed. My standard snapring pliers wouldn't open enough, til I took the grinder to them. Not to hard of a job, I'm glad I removed the case from the vehicle.
 
I've heard the AA is the best. It's goin' in a '98. What's up with that RE cheapo deal? It is so cheap it scares me. Is it a bargain, or a robbery? It has to be one or the other at that price. Don't you cut off the original output shaft or something and re-use it? Dann
 
isn't the $100 RE SYE the hack and tap type, not the HD type, and don't you still have to replace your rear driveshaft.
 
Yes, it is the hack and tap and you will still need a CV driveshaft, saving you $150. AA SYE kit is usually $250. Go with the AA SYE.
 
Yeah, I knew the driveshaft was a given, but on this hack and tap deal, has anyone done it? I assume you cut the existing output shaft to specified length, tap it out for the yoke bolt, clean up, and install the new yoke and driveshaft. Does this about sum it up? Maybe I'm off base a bit, but cutting the damn output shaft would seem to be a real barrel 'o' monkeys. The shaft has got to be surface hardened, and made of something a bit tougher than hot rolled steel. I'm thinking complete removal, chuck it up on a lathe, cut it down, clean the surface, and tap it while it is still chucked up. I have access to a lathe, but I can't afford to have my daily driver down for more than a day. Someone please say it is less involved than that, and that it is a decent set-up. I'm a poor family man, so if it is less expensive, but labor intensive, then I'm usually game. However, I don't want to invest in anything that is going to require me to do it all over in less than a year or 2. I'm just going to be doing mild to moderate wheeling, and maybe hopping a curb or 2. Thoughts? Dann
 
I tried the hach-n-tap on mine but still had minor vibes.So I ended up buying the JB Conversions kit.The RE kit does not address all the issues like the HD kits do.Its only a 100$ more to do it right once!
 
I don't want to do anything that will result in vibrational/harmonic problems. I do believe I'll look into getting the complete deal. Thanks, Dann
 
I went with the RE SYE on my '97. Paid $75 for the kit and $225 for the DS... way cheaper than the HD kit and shaft... and I have no vibes and.... so far... it works great. The jeep gets wheeled but I'm not planning on entering any UROC competitions any time soon so hopefully it will hold up. ;)

If you got the bucks or a serious need definately go with the HD kit.
 
Tom Wood's SYE and driveshaft here. An SYE can be done by even the most inept mechanic (me). FWIW I posted a bunch of random pics from my install:

http://www.kofira.com/jeep/SYEInstall/index.html

Get a good set of snap ring pliers (BIG). I tried to get by with el cheapo's and "lost my perspective" during the install. Good luck!

P
 
I went cheap and quick... and I did the RE hack and tap and well..... it so far turned out fine :) It has survived 2 moderate trails and one harder one all in one day :). I look at it this way: if Farmer Matt's hack and tap has survived all that he has thrown at it, so will mine :)

Kejtar
 
I did the hack and tap as well and you don't have to remove it to cut it on a lathe, I used a cut off wheel and took my time just do it slow so you don't ruin the temper of the steel and you should be fine as long as you can cut straight, mine has been on for about a month and I have no vibes unless I go over 75 mph, on the odd occasion I do that but that may be from the tires or something else, but overall it was an easy install and has been working great with no complaints at all.
 
About the drive shaft, I have about 4.5" of lift +/- .5" and I must have the driveshaft ready for installation right after I do the SYE. Is their anyone who has prefabbed double carden drive shafts available for my lift dimensions? I can't afford to be down for more than a day. Thanks, Dann
 
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