45 mph shake diagnosis

Im trying to rule out certain conclusions in my 45 mph. shake/shimmy stiring wheel problem.

pt 1.

axle shaft bent/ u joint failure.

I think its the passnener side front from when i tried to use an off brand replacement Ujoint with the in correct tools. (BF Hammer) and no press.

To test i was thinking of simply taking it out and driving it without it to see if theres a change. I maybe missing something in doing this...but i should be able to do this shouldnt I? I mean it will drive without the shaft in the passenger side.

The bearing/hub doesnt have to have the axle coming thru it in order to drive it... right??? As long as i can close off the axle tube hole so the fluid doent leak while in operation.

The hub bolts to knuckle which contains the stubs needed for the disk,capiler and wheel to bolt to correct?

Am i missing the obvious or can this be done to rule out the axle shaft as the cause?

if i read right, u replaced a ujoint , it might be just out of alignment, if it is our 1/16th" , that could give u problems.

You don't really want to drive without the axleshaft through the hub/unit bearing assembly. Without the axle and nut there is really nothing holding the bearing assembly together and it may come apart taking your wheel and brakes with it. Not safe to do on the street.

i hope its that simple...its got new Rubi wheels and tires ,new up and lower ball joint, new hub assembys both sides, rustys hd track bar,new sway bar bushings, so instead of saying pt.1 in the write up, i guess i shouldve put part 30.

I put in a newer shaft in from a junk yard over the weekend which had been heated from a torch (dont ask why) but it made it worse. It shimmyed more at the same speed but during the same install i also rotated the tires and put new OME. leaf packs. So go figure.

im not saying take the family out on vacation with it like that...just up to the point that it usually gives me problems.

when did the shiimy start after other new parts or just after shaft was put in?

The parts where a hopeful cure.

have u had an alignment since u replaced (up and lower ball joint, new hub assembys both sides, rustys hd track bar,new sway bar bushings)?

Plus how much actual support does the shaft give...i mean, it has a u joint on it which flexes in every direction so i dont see how driving it a little way would hurt anything. Not to be an ass_ole...just trying to see how it strengthns myself.

nah...not in a while. Could certainly help for any cause though.

I guess if the toe was off enough, it could cause vibrations or shaking from the wheels and tires fighting each other.

Im trying to figure out every possible cause for this.

It's annoying the piss out of me.

if your toe or caster is out by very little it will wobble.

i actually had an alignment done to mine after a 2 and 2 1/2" lift, the set the caster proper but they set the toe at 1/16" in and i had a wobble.

well i know the camber is...leans to the inside like most.

keep the stub shaft bolted in the bearing, since thats what holds it together other than the assy. being pressed together.

I had a similar problem on my 2000 XJ, after installing a 4" lift. What I was told was after lifting it the angle of the steering inkage changed, going from a T shape to a Y shape. This angle change allows a little more flex from the components and gives you your wobble. The cure, I was told, is to replace the linkage with an HD aftermarket set-up, one that uses a straight tie rod. What I did in the meantime was toe it out 6 degrees past spec. I can still feel it want to wobble under certain conditions, but at least it doesn't esscalate. It'll do until I get the $ for the steering parts.
GregH