waggy 44 install

bigwhitey · Jun 3, 2006

The Waggy 44 is almost done. I'm still waiting on the rims from summit to arrive so I can try to align it.
I used the RE bracket kit, Full traction longarms, Over Axle Trac bar, and my flipped steering from the D-30.

Issues
*The stock tierod and draglink are possibly too long for the Waggy axle and may have to be replaced.
*The stock drive shaft may be too long for compression.
*The pumpkin is huge on this thing with the mount over it and actually hits the trac bar bracket. I need about 5-5.5" of bumpstop to keep it from hitting and the steering from binding.

Any experienced advice is welcome.

afd516 · Jun 3, 2006

bigwhitey said:
The Waggy 44 is almost done. I'm still waiting on the rims from summit to arrive so I can try to align it.
I used the RE bracket kit, Full traction longarms, Over Axle Trac bar, and my flipped steering from the D-30.

Issues
*The stock tierod and draglink are possibly too long for the Waggy axle and may have to be replaced.

Get some one tone steering. You spent the money on the bracket kit, wheels, tires, long arms, etc. Don't skimp now!

*The stock drive shaft may be too long for compression.

The front drive shaft should be fine. As a matter of fact, after I put my ds in I had to move the axle back some to try to clear the trac bar mount and there was still plenty short enough.

*The pumpkin is huge on this thing with the mount over it and actually hits the trac bar bracket. I need about 5-5.5" of bumpstop to keep it from hitting and the steering from binding.

Try to move you axle back about 1/2 to 3/4 inches if you long arms are adjustable. I also took my track bar frame mount off and moved it foward about an inch. This invoved elongating the bolt holes on the mount to move it foward.

Any experienced advice is welcome.

These adjustments will take you time to figure out what works best for you. I messed with mine for months before I got it where I wanted it. The only reason I have bump stops now is to minimize tire rub when I turn during axle articulation.

bigwhitey · Jun 6, 2006

The good:
It's fitting better now
I have locking hubs and they're cheaper then XJ conversions
the brakes are bigger and cheaper 20 for pads and 20 a piece for calipers
I can use gears lower the 4.88 now
knuckles and ball joints are bigger

bigwhitey · Jun 7, 2006

Ok finally torqued everything down and drove it today.
The brakes don't "feel" like I think they should. Maybe I need to bleed them some more or get better pads like I had on the 30, I'm using the cheap asbestos free pads.
The steering won't turn as far as I'd like I think the waggy pitman arm may have a larger radius then the stock XJ.

Here's pics

Made it home

BrettM · Jun 7, 2006

yes, the Waggy pitman arm is longer and will provide more steering angle, however it's very flat, so you'll need a Waggy drop pitman arm.

cLAYH · Jun 7, 2006

bigwhitey said:
The steering won't turn as far as I'd like I think the waggy pitman arm may have a larger radius then the stock XJ.

I have the same problem with my Waggy D44. I went to teh wrecker to get a Waggy pitman arm but after I got there and saw one I realized it wasn't going to work as its really flat, almost no drop at all. So I'm going to wait till my high steer conversion is done and then get a Waggy drop pitman as Brent suggested.

bigwhitey · Jun 8, 2006

BrettM said:
yes, the Waggy pitman arm is longer and will provide more steering angle, however it's very flat, so you'll need a Waggy drop pitman arm.

Thanks for the info I'll search for some one who sells a drop. I figured it would be too flat.

afd516 · Jun 8, 2006

When you find one pass on the info where you got it. I have done some searching and have come up empty handed so far.

BRIANHO13 · Jun 8, 2006

afd516 said:
When you find one pass on the info where you got it. I have done some searching and have come up empty handed so far.

Here is a wggy drop, they sell regular xj drops as well.

http://rustysoffroad.com/Merchant2/...e=rustys&Product_Code=DPA02&Category_Code=ste

afd516 · Jun 8, 2006

I came up with this....

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=465&cid=13

It has to be asked. Do the gear box splines and hole diameter match up between the xj and the wagoneer? The draglink hole doesn't matter to me because I have to drill out for a 1 ton tie rod but are they the same also?

Jes · Jun 8, 2006

bigwhitey said:
I have locking hubs and they're cheaper then XJ conversions

You do?
I don't see lockouts, I see drive flanges...

seanR · Jun 8, 2006

bigwhitey said:
Issues
*The stock tierod and draglink are possibly too long for the Waggy axle and may have to be replaced.

Make your own, you did all that work, the rest is not that hard.

*The stock drive shaft may be too long for compression.

No problem with mine.

*The pumpkin is huge on this thing with the mount over it and actually hits the trac bar bracket. I need about 5-5.5" of bumpstop to keep it from hitting and the steering from binding.

Move the upper Track bar mount back, make a whole new bracket, like I said, you did all that, keep welding!

BrettM · Jun 8, 2006

Rusty's, BJs and JC Whitney are the sources I have found. Apparently the JC Whitney one is listed as a Ford (f150?) application.

The splines on the steering box match, but the drag link end is most likely a little larger.

bigwhitey · Jun 8, 2006

Jes said:
You do?
I don't see lockouts, I see drive flanges...

Thats with out the drive flanges installed too. I'm slowly adding to the drive train to find all the noises and make sure I know what they are. I have reinstalled the slugs and will install the drive shaft this weekend.

bigwhitey · Jun 8, 2006

afd516 said:
When you find one pass on the info where you got it. I have done some searching and have come up empty handed so far.

This Sky Jacker was all I found

http://www.jackit.com/store/supercart.cgi?s=skj_ja350

bigwhitey · Jun 8, 2006

seanR said:
Make your own, you did all that work, the rest is not that hard.

No problem with mine.

Move the upper Track bar mount back, make a whole new bracket, like I said, you did all that, keep welding!

I cut down the threaded ends of the Tierod, TRE and the coupler to make it short enough.

Put the drive shaft in place and I have more room then I expected.

I already moved the upper TB mount about 3/4" I may move it a little more and see if the upper links hit the oil pan when it's flexed.

bigwhitey · Jun 19, 2006

Jes said:
You do?
I don't see lockouts, I see drive flanges...

Installed Mile Marker manual locking hubs today, no more spinning driveshaft.
Ordered them from JC whitney and they showed up 2 days later.

bigwhitey · Jun 21, 2006

Tried installing the Waggy drop pitman today. It has the same amount of drop as the stock XJ pitman.
However the TRE taper is larger then the XJ, Also with the longer radius it pushes the draglink over the TR stopping any uptravel in the steering.

I Guess I'll order the BPS OTK setup. This will take care of the taper issue as my knuckles are already drilled to 3/4" I'll just remove the inserts and drill out the Pitman. I heard Heims are great anyways.

bigwhitey · Jun 24, 2006

Installed RE1555 Brake Line SS YJ+3" Front Pair - Extended front stainless steel brake lines 28" long.

Plenty long and no hard lines to deal with like my stock YJ lines.

Really they feel the same so I feel no benefit with the steel braiding.

hadfield4wd · Jun 24, 2006

Why is a Waggy drop potman are necessary? For the stock drag link/TRE?

waggy 44 install

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