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97+ Herculined floor

DBenz

NAXJA Forum User
Hey guys,

"Reichy" and I are herculining the floors of our jeeps. His is a 93, so there's nothing fancy at all, jsut bare metal underneath the carpeting. Mine is a 97 and when I pulled all the carpeting and trim out, I found some squares of a shiny metallic adhesive patch on certain areas of the floor. There is some in the r4ear on th efloor, transmission hump, etc. I'm not quite sure that herculiner will be able to stick to this surface, so has anyone pulled theirs up? or maybe tried to scuff it? Thanks,

Derek
 
its heat shielding because the cat and exhaust design tends to heat up the floor substantially, enough to soften harc. when its laid down. I would leave it down and scuff it lightly with sandpaper so that the liner will stick.
 
the directions for herculiner say to sscuff everythgin anyway.
when i did mine i used a wheel on my drill. the sqaure they give you hurts your hand in about 42 seconds from start.

scratch it.
wear gloves.
herculiner will stick to it.

wear gloves.


get more gloves.


k have fun!
i can post pics of my 96 herculiner if you need it!
 
I would leave the heat shielding in place if I were you. My transmission tunnel gets really, really hot (I actually cooked my lunch on it while wheeling last weekend). The Herculiner should go over it just fine if you scuff it up. Use the brush to dab all around the edges and you should be able to make it blend in to the rest of the floor.

orchimaxi said:
I'd like to see it, if you don't mind. I've been contemplating it myself.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86313
 
hey i will be finishing up my floor i will have pics soon... i have done my front and left the heat shields on since they are tacked down with a nasty black epoxy and the herc has held up really nicely...i just drilled two drainholes in the front and hose it out once a month...its awesome and the heat isnt too bad...pics soon...oh yeah some models will have electronic modules under the drivers or passenger seat for power options just make sure these are sealed or removed...there are also factory holes with grommetts too which are convieneint...you will have to apply a layer or two more to sides of the tranny tunny b/c gravity plays on the herc and to make sure you get even thickness all around...i brushed it on too which has a little different texture but it was really easy... gloves! and the xylene smell lingered for a while...well worth it though just gotta finish the rear hatch and figure out my sub wiring configuration
 
does anyone know if installing pre 97 heat sheild on the outside like on the older ones on a 97+ would work so you dont have the shields there
 
Those are not heat shields they are sound deadener pads. They were in all footwells and under the rear bench if I recall. Not likely places that heat up. I removed mine completely and the tar that holds them down sucks pretty bad to get up. I found that starting with a small wad of it and using it to pull up more (like you would gum) worked the best. I highly recommend you remove it all - you can't get a complete herculining job if you don't.
 
This is going to take forever, I just oulled up the first one and only cut my fingers about 5 times on that damn thin metal. The tar underneath is jsut like bubblegum.
 
Hope its not your DD ... I did it to mine, in the summer it gets super hot on the floor

Wear gloves ... just to keep the liner off your hands it takes days to get rid of
 
If it has aluminum attached to it, it's a heat sheild. Normal sound deadaning material will just look like black tar paper, and is often applied before painting. I'd honestly add more heat sheilding if possible. Take a look at the Xota thread, he added a bunch to his firewall.

If you are hell bent on removing it, purchase a 10lb block of dry ice. If your grocery store doesn't sell it, look up 'ice' or 'dry ice' in the phone book. It should be about a dollar a pound.

Smash up the dry ice with a hammer and spread the chunks over the area that you are working on. I haven't tried this, but you might consider putting the crushed ice in a garbage bag to keep things clean. Let the ice site on the area for 10 minutes. Remove the ice and tap the deadening with a hammer. It should come apart in big flakes like peanut brittle.

I removed 40+ lbs of material from my car this way. Use some brake cleaner to touch up the little spots that the ice missed.
 
dude u gotta believe me when i say that in the 97+ xj's that silver stuff on your floor is heat shielding and it would be a big mistake to pull it up. just leave it down and scuff it up before applying ur herc.
 
crap, I already pulled up the one on the passenger floor.

The black sound deadnening stuff......is this what is on the top of the cargo area in the 97+?
 
I did this yesterday and after removing one of the heat sheilds completely, I abandoned the idea of removing them all. I did discover that on some of the sheilds (driver/passenger floor), there are pockets of air where they are ridges in the metal to make it more strong. I took a utility knife and cut these air pockets and pressed them in to form a seal. The herculiner stuck to the sheilds without scuffing, because it has many wrinkles in it and 2 coats helped (as suggested by herculiner instructions). I still have probably 3/8 of a gallon left over, I'll probably do my wheel wells and start underneath.
 
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