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6.5" lift - What all is needed?

Durangoman47

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MD
I want to peice my lift together. Dont want to dump a load of money into it right now. 6.5" coils - front, shocks, 3" aal and 3" blocks - Rear. I'm familar with dodge rams(used to own one with 12" and 37's), but I'm sure there is some sort of Tracbar drop bracket needed? Control Arms? Transfer Case drop, How much? Do I need drivershafts etc. I can make my own Control Arms and T-Case drop...

I'd like some light shed on the subject, Thanks Guys!

Rick
 
well, with 6" id say youll need front coils, front shocks, control arms, trac bar, and im gonna say youll have to do something with the steering as well....as for the rear, i would do an add a leaf, shackles, and maybe a 1" block....you will need a slip yoke eliminator, and a new ds as well as brake lines front and rear....im sure om leaving something out, but someone else will chime in with whatever that is.....
 
I don't think I would use a 3 inch block. Honestly, just save a little longer and buy a full leaf pack and shackle to get the rear lift.
 
rokkrawler.com has all parts need for the the 6.5 lift i am doin the same thing this month.....dont half a$$ is.....parts youll need as said above as well as pitman arm you will also need to watch the pinion angle on the front especially if you are runnig the d30
 
Please dont put 3" blocks in the rear, you said your familiar with trucks, well 3" blocks will work fine in a ram because those leafs are a lot stiffer, if you put a 3" block on stock xj leafs you wouldnt beleive how quickly you'll wreck them.
 
I assume the spring rate is that soft on a Cherokee. I never had a issue with blocks on it, I had a 3" block and the rest in springs on it. My goal is to fit 33's without hacking the fenders horribly. Could I get away with 4.5" lift instead? I'm looking at a skinny 33, like 10.50 and 11.50's and most likey will be on my stock wheels for a while.

Whats yall thoughts on that?

Rick
 
Half ass-ing 6.5" will cost you alot more in the long run(trust me) I figure my 6.75" cost me 2 times what it would have cost me to JUST DO IT, rather than "piecing" it together.

Yes, you will need longer control arms, preferably adjustable. Yes, you will need a adjustable trac-bar, yes you will need drop down brackets if not using long arms, yes you will need an SYE, or a Hack and Tap, which results in needing a new rear driveline.

Yes you can make control arms(if you trust your welding and fab skills with your life), you can make t-case drop brackets, but really, you want the t-case dropped 3 inches? or better to keep the vibes in line?


I will be the first to tell you, don't piece it...
 
Durangoman47 said:
I assume the spring rate is that soft on a Cherokee. I never had a issue with blocks on it, I had a 3" block and the rest in springs on it. My goal is to fit 33's without hacking the fenders horribly. Could I get away with 4.5" lift instead? I'm looking at a skinny 33, like 10.50 and 11.50's and most likey will be on my stock wheels for a while.

Whats yall thoughts on that?

Rick


Yes the stock springs on a cherokee are very soft. You could easily get away with 4.5 and skinny 33's. I run 12.5" 33's on a 3.5-4" lift easily, althought I've hacked my fenders pretty good, you could still get away with very little trimming, as long as you dont plan on rock crawling with it.
 
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