New brake hardware..

More specific, brake lines.
During my strip down process, I ended up butchering the brake lines (see rusted). So now I need to run all new lines. What all do I need and how much line should I get? What is the best place to get it? Brand? Should I use bigger than stock lines?
I have NEVER messed with brake lines before, but learn fast.
I have a 99 booster and master cyl.
I have a D44 going in that already has disks swapped in..
Any and all help is appreciated.

Bigger than stock lines probably won't do you much good unless you can open up the various fittings as well. In any event, there's really relatively little fluid movement in a brake system.

How much you'll need is really dependent on how much is trashed. You could always go to the stealership and get prebent lines at a premium (or maybe Inline Tube or Classic Tube.)

If you want to bend your own, you'll need a tubing bender and a flare tool, probably a small tubing cutter as well. I'm a BIG fan of this flare tool: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...owse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=flare Don't forget the double flare adapter buttons.

ChiXJeff said:

Bigger than stock lines probably won't do you much good unless you can open up the various fittings as well. In any event, there's really relatively little fluid movement in a brake system.

How much you'll need is really dependent on how much is trashed. You could always go to the stealership and get prebent lines at a premium (or maybe Inline Tube or Classic Tube.)

If you want to bend your own, you'll need a tubing bender and a flare tool, probably a small tubing cutter as well. I'm a BIG fan of this flare tool: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...owse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=flare Don't forget the double flare adapter buttons.

Click to expand...

Well, I pretty much had to destroy everything in the engine bay. I don't think i can couple in a new line for the rear....
I could check on prices for a dealer one, but after looking at how the stock was done, and everthing that i have removed (and won't be putting back), I think I might be able to route things a little better than stock. Is there a place to buy bulk lines and fittings?

You'll need 3/16" steel line, that's the stock size. You have to use the stock size so it matches up with the rubber hoses on the calipers and fittings on the wheel cylinders. The easiest way if you've got large sections of heavily rotted or broken line is to go to NAPA and get a coil of line, it's a long line sold in a roll or coil. This makes it easy as you only have to make fittings on the beginning and end, nothing in the middle.

You can buy lengths of straight line, but that's a PITA if you're replacing a lot because you have to connect them all, and in the end it leaves a much bigger potential for leaks.

Get some flare fittings with the line, same size, 3/16". You'll also need a double-flare tool to make the ends. Slide the fitting onto the line, then use the tool to make the flare. I don't like the looks of the tool linked above, but it may work...I prefer the kit. You don't really need the bending tool, I've done TONS of steel line and never used one. Just be careful not to bend the line too sharply or crease it, the tool is help with that part for dummies IMO.

Just connect one end to the master cyl, or wherever the broken line starts...run the line, bending it as necessary, to the point where good line is or wherever it ends, then make another flare fitting and connect it up. It's very easy.

One thing to remember is that the pump-and-hold bleeding procedure won't work after you've replaced a lot of line. Bleed them like this with a helper, starting farthest from the master cyl and working your way to the closest:

1) Open bleeder
2) Have helper push brake pedal to floor and hold it there
3) Close Bleeder
4) Have helper release brake pedal
5) Repeat until clear fluid comes out and air is gone, then proceed to next wheel.

Just keep checking the fluid, don't let the master cyl run dry during the bleeding process. Good luck.

Just do a web search for "brake lines", there are lots of places,Summit, Jegs, 4 Wheel DisoXXXX,NAPA etc. where you can buy a 25' roll with fittings and you can always buy extra fittings
If you decide to go stainless remember not to use welded, it tends to crack when you flare it and don't cut stainless with a tubing cutter, use a cut off wheel and debur the cut end.
Good luck...I'm doing mine too while I have the floor pans out, a lot more room.

anony91xj said:

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Get some flare fittings with the line, same size, 3/16". You'll also need a double-flare tool to make the ends. Slide the fitting onto the line, then use the tool to make the flare. I don't like the looks of the tool linked above, but it may work...I prefer the kit. You don't really need the bending tool, I've done TONS of steel line and never used one. Just be careful not to bend the line too sharply or crease it, the tool is help with that part for dummies IMO.

Click to expand...

What is the kit you refer to? Any links? Part numbers? Specific store to buy from?

Ya...what 91 said...we must have posted at the same time.

As far as tools go, I *HATE* the bar & yoke style tools, I've just never gotten a decent flare out of one. The pliers style tool I linked above just plain works. I've even made good flares on a line with brake fluid dripping out of it with that tool.

3' sections of line should be available at any decent auto supply shop, as well as fittings. Obviously, you'll need to match up the fittings with the prop valve, calipers, etc. as well as the tubing. Yes, there are various combos available. If you're looking for a spool, try a drag racing supply or go online.

About the only better routing I'd see would be down the interior of the frame rail. Otherwise, I'm perfectly happy with the factory routing.

Yes, if you're careful, you can bend the tubing by hand. Works better with a bender, though. Don't need a fancy one, I've got a simple aluminum one that works pretty well that I paid $2.99 for.

ChiXJeff said:

As far as tools go, I *HATE* the bar & yoke style tools, I've just never gotten a decent flare out of one. The pliers style tool I linked above just plain works. I've even made good flares on a line with brake fluid dripping out of it with that tool.

3' sections of line should be available at any decent auto supply shop, as well as fittings. Obviously, you'll need to match up the fittings with the prop valve, calipers, etc. as well as the tubing. Yes, there are various combos available. If you're looking for a spool, try a drag racing supply or go online.

About the only better routing I'd see would be down the interior of the frame rail. Otherwise, I'm perfectly happy with the factory routing.

Yes, if you're careful, you can bend the tubing by hand. Works better with a bender, though. Don't need a fancy one, I've got a simple aluminum one that works pretty well that I paid $2.99 for.

Click to expand...

I have a friend with a bender, so that's not a prob. My biggest concern was a flare tool (now that i know the name). I will price check tubing this week as time permits. I still need to find a "new" prop valve though.

Are you looking for an identical OEM prop valve, or and adjustable aftermarket?

I've been running a Wilwood adjustable for 3 years now. Only real issue is that it doesn't have the pressure sensor hookup for the brake indicator on the dash. Otherwise, it's been working nicely.

imma honky said:

What is the kit you refer to? Any links? Part numbers? Specific store to buy from?

Click to expand...

I got mine from Cornwell, they're available through all the industrial tools distributors...Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, OTC, etc...

I googled "double-flare kit" and this was the first result. All the kits are essentially the same. It looks to me like the pliers type only makes a single flare, not a proper double-flare..

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/DOUBLE-FLARE-TOOL-KIT-AST-7826.HTML


Oh, and a ratcheting tubing cutter like this one makes the job quite a bit easier:

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Tube-Cutter-RC375.html

anony91xj said:

I got mine from Cornwell, they're available through all the industrial tools distributors...Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, OTC, etc...

I googled "double-flare kit" and this was the first result. All the kits are essentially the same. It looks to me like the pliers type only makes a single flare, not a proper double-flare..

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/DOUBLE-FLARE-TOOL-KIT-AST-7826.HTML


Oh, and a ratcheting tubing cutter like this one makes the job quite a bit easier:

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Tube-Cutter-RC375.html

Click to expand...

Ouch, Cornwell. That's some pricey hardware (along with mac, matco, snap on). I will have to talk to a few buddies to see if they have one.

anony91xj said:

It looks to me like the pliers type only makes a single flare, not a proper double-flare.

Click to expand...

No. That statement is incorrect. The pliers style will do a double flare with the adapter buttons. Same as the bar & yoke style. I did the rear lines on my XJ 3 years ago, and reflared a front 5 years ago with the pliers style. No leaks.