d44 vs d30 strength question again....

so after some searching i couldnt find exactly what i was looking for....basically trying to decide if i want to build a front d44 or stick w/ my d30. currently i am on 31's with an aussie up front and have broke 3 shafts in the past 8-10 wheeling trips or so. all of the shafts went because the u joints blew first. granted two of the three were junkyard u joints so that probably played in as a pretty big factor, although they looked to all be in great condition w/ no play whatsoever. two of these were shafts w/ 260x joints, and one was w/ a 297x btw. honestly i am not real hard on the go-pedal and use only when i have to, although i do run some pretty tough trails.

within the next year or so i plan on jumping up to probably 35s so am trying to decide if i should invest all the money into a front axle swap. i am going to get my axles all done before the tires and added lift. i currently have a 8.25 in the rear, so that will pretty much be swapped for sure (probably d44) because i want to run 4.88 gears. if i keep the d30 my plan is to put a detriot in the rear which should be ok, and then a selectable up front to try to minimize breaking as i would only turn it on when i need it. do you guys think this would be ok??

i guess my main question is, from everything ive read the u joint on the d44 (760x) is the same size as the upgraded d30 joints so ultimately wont this still be the weakest link and the same strength as the d30, shaft strength aside.

thanks all for your help....

btw, for all that have built front d44's all said and done what is the usual cost? i dont have a welder btw, but have a couple friends that do that should be able to help me.....

muddshutter said:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85339

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ya i actually read that entire thread....i guess more of my question was on d44 vs d30 strength difference because u joints are usually the weakest link and if the joint is the same size what all are you gaining then besides the ring gear difference. If the joint is still going to go first i guess i dont see a huge benefit in the 44 over the 30, am i wrong?? d60 may just be the way to go...

northwestxj said:

ya i actually read that entire thread....i guess more of my question was on d44 vs d30 strength difference because u joints are usually the weakest link and if the joint is the same size what all are you gaining then besides the ring gear difference. If the joint is still going to go first i guess i dont see a huge benefit in the 44 over the 30, am i wrong?? d60 may just be the way to go...

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if you have chromo shafts and joints, the D30 gears and/or diff becomes a weak-point and the greater strength offered by the D44 is beneficial.

If you're breaking 297 joints on 31s, with 35s you will likely need at least D44 with chromo shafts and joints, or maybe even a D60.

BrettM said:

if you have chromo shafts and joints, the D30 gears and/or diff becomes a weak-point and the greater strength offered by the D44 is beneficial.

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alright thanks, makes sense.

If you're breaking 297 joints on 31s, with 35s you will likely need at least D44 with chromo shafts and joints, or maybe even a D60.

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only one of them was a 297 and it was from a junkyard, like previously mentioned. the other 2 were 260's, one new, and one junkyard....so maybe if i get some new 297's i will be ok?

Here is the result of going to 35s with my well trussed, alloy shafted, Jantz Superjoint equipped, ARBed D30



Worse than this is that I was climbing a waterfall when it blew.
The rig dropped about a foot before the rear tires caught traction, bending the rear 8.8 ring gear teeth and breaking the Detroit case before the axle shaft snapped.

You're full of it. Everyone knows that a well built 30 will hold up to 38's.:confused1

CRASH said:

You're full of it. Everyone knows that a well built 30 will hold up to 38's.:confused1

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Must be true. I read it on the internet.

Kid,

You have to admit though, that you were doing something that most of us may not do, It sounds a bit extreme. I usually watch the guy that does that type of stunt, knowing that they(you) are going to break something.

I have a feeling that you would have broken something else, even if you were using a D44. Those teeth can only hold so much stress....

Perhaps, but if you're spending the $ to go to 35s, I assume it's for a reason.
Hopefully more than looks.

609

kid4lyf said:

Here is the result of going to 35s with my well trussed, alloy shafted, Jantz Superjoint equipped, ARBed D30

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Were those yukon gears?

cal said:

Were those yukon gears?

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Motive

cal said:

Were those yukon gears?

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only you have problems with Yukon :viking:

ZachMan said:

only you have problems with Yukon :viking:

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Thats entirly possible, and I'll admit predjudice there.

That didn't invalidate the question though.

kid4lyf said:

Motive

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Motive usually makes some good chit.

I'm betting on owner/operator error.

CRASH said:

Motive usually makes some good chit.

I'm betting on owner/operator error.

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A D30 may be OK for that weak-ass Arizona BOTW shit but this is Indiana, pal.
The Badlands, home of the Top Truck Challenge.

northwestxj said:

d60 may just be the way to go...

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Now you're on the right track. To most a 44 is enough, but if you are breaking shafts with 31's on a d30...you'll be kicking yourself when you break the same shafts in a 44 after spending the cash to put it in. Do it once.