35s, d30, alloy shafts?

I dont really like to blast up obstacles or bounce the jeep ever, i really like to crawl and be a bit more reserved in my approach, so what do you guys think, when i go 35s, should i bother getting alloy shafts for my d30? ive already got a 30 spline d44 in the rear. i know itd be the best option to really play it safe, but would it really be necessary in the scheme of things, money considered?

thanks all

i have them..........and it made my ring gear the fuseable link.........its up to you, what would you rather break?

I ran 35's with alloy inners for 2 years never broke anything. Keep in mind it is midwest wheeling.

For what it's worth, I probably wheel a little more difficult trails than most and have yet to break any CroMo shafts or joints.
I've only had them for about six moths, but still.....
Before, I broke at least two stock shafts per weekend......

i have wheeled with quite a few people on 35's with stock shafts and no problems. on the other hand, i have broken my fair share of stock shafts on 33's and went to alloys (i try not to use the go pedal unless i absolutely need to).

stay stock for now and carry spare shafts. if you start breaking them, then upgrade. that's my 2 cents

I agree with Intrepid...stay stock for now and carry spares. Stock shafts with 297/760 u-joints will handle quite a bit of abuse.

Bender said:

I agree with Intrepid...stay stock for now and carry spares. Stock shafts with 297/760 u-joints will handle quite a bit of abuse.

Click to expand...

Ahahahahahahaha!!!
That's a laugh!
297 Shafts will NOT handle real abuse.
Not crawling with any kind of full lock under power.
Like I said, at least 2 per weekend.....

Okie Terry said:

Ahahahahahahaha!!!
That's a laugh!
297 Shafts will NOT handle real abuse.
Not crawling with any kind of full lock under power.
Like I said, at least 2 per weekend.....

Click to expand...

I agree... have seen shafts shatter with 31s

Stock shafts aren't enough for me, and my ring gear has become the weakest link since I upgraded to alloy shafts. I'm on 33's.

I have 4340 shafts inner and outer with 760x joints ... wait for it ... wait for it...


with 38's and a 4:1 Klune-V

Done the hardest trails in Colorado.. That I know of. Die Trying, Catus 2, Calamity Canyon, and 21 road and Billings canyon etc. etc. . Used the spicer joints as a "fuse". Haven't had a problem since I had them.. 2 years. Why 38's on a D30 do you ask.... Because I am stubborn and have a thing for people telling me I can't... It's pretty clear that this shouldn't be done. But then again why not.... Until I blow that poor poor over taxed D30. It stays........ I know it's not the best idea. But like I said. Stubborn....... Besides a D44 only gets you 3 more splines give or take and a bigger r&P... not wise for people that like that happy pedal, but for those of us that take good lines and a little time... Well I have plenty of people that watch just to see how much the poor d30 will take. If your runnin 35's .... no problem.. But you can't hammer down......

38s, 4 to 1, chromoly shafts... little money in that thing huh.... Let's see some pics in the pictures forum

trust me it isn't anything to look at. I have pics on Rockcrawler.com in Readers Rides - Colorado - Titmus--- I am the only Titmus out there (go figure) . It only had 37" SSR's at the time.. But I don't want to hi jack the thread. I just want to let you guys know that D30's can take a lot of abuse properly outfitted and w/o standing on the happy pedal.

Gunner

P.S.

My computer sucks otherwise I have a pic here...

here it is

hit quote and figure out how to post pics. just copy imagle location
btw i run 36's on my dana 30. i took the detroit out after twisting some stock shafts. chromo or 44 uprade? i like option2

4340 shafts are tha cats ass..... A D44 while stronger in the R&P and 30 splines vs. 27 The weak point always seems to be the 297X - upgraded to the 760X u-joint. I my experience the u-joint is always first. D30 or D44 so pick your poison... I like my D30. So Far.

I haven't used the winch for my own extraction while rockcrawling until I had to make it out in 2wd once.

Sure, it is possible to run 44" tires on a 30 and just "see if it breaks". I was a dumbass once and thought I would be the exception to the rule and that my magical 30 would get me to the top, then again with my awesome 4340 shafts, time and time again it has let me down. I don't want to play "find the most precarious place to work on your junk" and hold up people on the trail all day changing shafts, anymore.

How does one drive without using the accelerator? Winch winch winch and winch. whats the point of having the 4.0 if you can't use that torque? Whats the point of having bigger tires if you can't use them?

Personally if I see you running 38's on a d-30, I'm not wheelin with you, because I don't want to spend all day.....

(a) changing shafts for some jackhole that doesn't know their crap.
(b) waiting for some jackhole to change his shafts/joints
(c) taking the easy lines so I can winch out said jackhole.
(d) loaning out extra shafts that I carry because I KNOW d-30's are weak.

What is the point of wheeling the hardest trails in the world if you take the easiest lines? Just doing something to say you did something really hard, but doing it the easy way is similar to lying just to make yourself look cool.

There are no easy lines on Die Trying, but I wouldn't expect you to know that. and I have spent more time waiting for some "jackhole" with a magical D44 or even D60 that stood on the throttle like a moron just because he didn't think it would break. Driving means more than hitting the gas until you make it. If you like to drive like that you won't have to worry about my 38's because your not invited.

Ok, I don't really want to get into a pissing contest, I just want to let the poor guy know that its not worth it to beef up the d-30, I wish I hadn't wasted the money.

$150 for 760x's (caps lost, caps spit out, full circle clips)
$350 Warn inner shafts
$350 Truetrac
$70 Yukon outers
$120 Yukon inner (spit a cap and destroyed Warn inner)
$120 Gears
$150 Setup
$30 36 mm socket necessary for unit bearing d-30
_________
$1340 on a worthless gutless piece of metal that is now hollow because I can't afford to re-do it any more!

Spend a little money now and save yourself from having to do it twice! Listen to the rule rather than someone proclaiming to be the exception to that rule.

Don't get me wrong I agree with the upgrade to a D44 and yes you can dump a ton of cash into a D30 and still break it. My time is coming and I know it. But last I checked a bolt in D44 was running about $2600 or so. And for those who don't have access to serious fab equipment a junk yard upgrade out of an old FSJ isn't really an option, neither is paying a shop to do it. 35's with 4340 shafts and the knowledge that it is infact destructable will get you a long way.

goodburbon said:

Ok, I don't really want to get into a pissing contest, I just want to let the poor guy know that its not worth it to beef up the d-30, I wish I hadn't wasted the money.

$150 for 760x's (caps lost, caps spit out, full circle clips)
$350 Warn inner shafts
$350 Truetrac
$70 Yukon outers
$120 Yukon inner (spit a cap and destroyed Warn inner)
$120 Gears
$150 Setup
$30 36 mm socket necessary for unit bearing d-30
_________
$1340 on a worthless gutless piece of metal that is now hollow because I can't afford to re-do it any more!

Spend a little money now and save yourself from having to do it twice! Listen to the rule rather than someone proclaiming to be the exception to that rule.

Click to expand...

Maybe the next $$ you spend should be on some driving lessons..


I (and a bunch of others) have been running Dana 30's with 35's and not many problems at all..

Of course if you had a real locker in the front, you might not have issues with needing wheel spin to get the front end to grab

I run 35" creepy crawlers on a Dana 30 with a v8 grand cherokee and have only ever lost 1 cap...

I know a ton of guys that are running DAna 30s out at Johnson Valley and they hold up surprising well.

If you are light on the throttle, I think the major deal is where just what part of the country you are in...

I don't or rather didn't need or use wheelspin to lock the front end, nor to get traction in anything but loose dirt and mud spinning was an indication that I needed to apply the brakes and force a lock. The first shaft that let go there was no wheelspin, my last shaft I splintered at a standstill with no spinning whatsoever until it let go and my rear started spinning, and my front ring gear was stripped of its teeth with no wheelspin/shockload, just steady gradual application of throttle.

Maybe you should learn what to reccomend before you suggest that people throw their money away. :moon:

running 35s on a d-30 is like doing 90 on the interstate, when you get caught everyone else laughs.