Need Advice on Joint Replacement (not How To)

ALL:

2000, 149k. Dealer did some work and strongly recommended replacing Axle and Ball Joints and Swaybar bushings. I know there is plenty of "How To" info out there - I'm looking for advice on which first... Haven't done any of these before, but am willing to give it a go.

I have access to a garage with lift and all necessary tools, through my Installation's Auto Hobby Shop, including press.

What first? What's easiest? What's least expensive?

Thanks.

Z

"The value and necessity of those who serve their country is amplified by idiots who exercise the right to speak what they want, especially when that speech is against the defenders of their rights."

atriot:

Since you say you have access to tools and a lift. The question becomes how much do you want to spend as the first 2 sets of parts are on the way to each other. Another question is whether they are actually bad.

Still at 149K it's not a bad idea to give the front axle a bit of attention.

Go invest in a Manual. A Hayes manual will work, though the Factory Service manual would be best.

The ball joints will run you the most, around $50 each and there are 4 of them, 2 tops, 2 bottoms.
Axle U-Joints, or "wheel joints" will cost around $25 each.
While you are in there, check/replace the hub assemblys. Depending on where you buy them, they will run you $80-150 each. Local part stores will have the higher price.

So, basic breakdown. The Hub assy's are what your wheel bolts to and they come off first - make sure you have a 36mm socket and a 12pt 13mm socket. The latter is for the 3 "reverse torks" bolts which hold the Hub assy to the knuckle.

Once the hub is out, remove the axle shaft. See the U-joint in it. Replace it.

The upper and lower ball joints can now be replaced. You will need your press there. Use some penetrating oil around the base of the joint before getting all happy with the press.

Reverse above proceedure.

I suppose someone sells the OEM sway bar bushings, check your dealer first as they have been known to have really good prices on stuff from time to time.

I would need to know if they are actually bad or is the dealer trying to make some work for his shop ?
Unless there are problems I would leave things alone.I have 3 XJ,s all with over 180,000 miles on them.None have had ball joints go bad,u-joints were replaced in one because of a new drive shaft(sye) and all have the orginal sway bar bushings. Axle unit bearings were replace at 210,000 miles in the 96 as part of the re-gear up-grade but all the others are fine.
Get a 2nd opnion on the items ,I bet you are fine without the work.
Wayne

Thanks for the advice - The dealer knew that I was going to make the repairs on his recommendations, so I'm willing to think he was trying to be honest (I've had a good relationship with them thus far)... However, I'll take it to another shop for the valued second opinion.

I have a Haynes manual and it tells me to consult the dealer on replacing the ball joints. Becuase it isn't a fairly easy task. I would check out your manual choice beore buying one.

crazyXj33 said:

I have a Haynes manual and it tells me to consult the dealer on replacing the ball joints. Becuase it isn't a fairly easy task. I would check out your manual choice beore buying one.

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Haynes manuals are a waste of time and money. Get a Chilton's or FSM.

just get the OEM manuals...same price

hotelfinder said:

just get the OEM manuals...same price

Click to expand...

Haynes amd chilton's are all but worthless, and cost around $20. The DC FSM still run $90 to $110 last time I checked. But actually have detailed instructions on how things work, and how to take them down and rebuild them. I would go with the FSM.

FlatLander

Haynes and Chilton manuals are a waste of time and money. Get a Mitchals or FSM.

Before doing too much I'd check the ball joints myself. Jack up an axle on one side, put a big lever under the tire and lift up and down, checking for vertical play. They don't always wear out all at once. Although there's something to be said for doing them all at once anyway, I've seen ball joints last for a quarter million miles or more, so one could also take the position that "good is good until it goes bad." It's a pesky job to do. On the other hand, if you do have to do any ball joints, by all means do the axles too if there's even a hint of wear, play or stiffness. They're relatively easy, the parts are cheap, and you'll have them out anyway. Here in VT I seem to get about 50K miles to a set of axle u-joints no matter whether they're the premium or the cheapos.

The sway bar bushings are very easy. 12 bucks or so a pair from the dealer (amazingly, cheaper as a dealer part than from auto parts stores at least around here). 4 bolts. If the bolts are rusty, try not to shear them, but otherwise it's simple.

Check with www.stu-offroad.com for writeups on how to replace most of those parts. If he doesn't have anything about ball joints, hit up DJ (91Jeep Project) from here about how to do the job.