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Pitman arm removal

P

pikey77

NAXJA Forum User
Location
dfw
Alright...what are the secrets I tried for literally 4 hours to get the damn pitman arm off and broke one tool...HELP!!
 
Assuming that you have the proper pitman arm tool...crank down on it, then tap around the pitman arm with a hammer. Tighten a little more, and tap again. Keep repeating til it pops off.
 
I had a freakin 8 ft. cheater pipe on there and it was hard to turn. I got some PB on it now and Ill give it a try again tomorrow night.

Anyone wanna buy an 01?
 
thats dumb if you want to sell it bc u cant get the pitman arm off. do what they said
 
why are you taking it off?

if you are above 6.5" inches then yes you should get a drop arm. then you have to drop the track bar to make it parrallel
 
Hydroplanned coming home on tuesday and messed up the steering gear box. So I'm trying to replace the gear box. I only have 3" and no plans for higher anytime soon.

...i know technically this didn't because of the Jeep but its still one more thing and loads of frustration. I started at 2oclock and gave up at 10
 
Pittman arms can be a PITA. You need heat, a bfh and a good puller. WEAR EYE PROTECTION. I have broken numerous pullers on pittman arms. In some cases, we resorted to grinding it off of the steering box.

Be careful, when those things finally come off, they really unload.
 
xjohnnyc said:
Assuming that you have the proper pitman arm tool...crank down on it, then tap around the pitman arm with a hammer. Tighten a little more, and tap again. Keep repeating til it pops off.
Click to expand...

x2

Even the most stubborn of pitman arms will come off using this technique.
 
Well a hammer..two dozen curse words and a deal with god later It popped off. I actually thought I broke another damn tool. Problem it also popped off the tie-rod. Is there a tool I need to reconnect it to the tie rod.
 
As long as no-thing's broken, no. You just push the stud into the Pitman arm hole, and tighten the nut on the other end to spec.

HINT - when reassembling the linkage and mounting the Pitman arm to the steering box, coat the studs with never-seez. DO NOT GET ANY ON THE THREADS - wipe it off if you do - but coat the smooth bits (tie rods) and the splined bit (Pitman shaft) with a thin layer of never-seez. It should save you having to make another deal with God...

5-90
 
Good to know. My last question is...the castelated nut that holds the pitman arm to the steering linkage. When I try to install it the Tie rod just spins and wont allow the nut to tighten down....Is this broke? Seems like this is how it should work.
 
I find that holding the joint together with a large pair of pliers will put enough friction on the ball stud (that's what sticks out) to hold it in place while you put the nut on.

Again - this is important. MAKE SURE YOU WIPE ANY NEVER-SEEZ OFF THE THREADS! Due to the lower friction offered, you will SERIOUSLY overtorque the nuts if you have enough on there to be a problem, so be careful!

Alternatively, if you get some on the threads and leave it there, reduce the "book torque" by HALF - because that's specified for "clean, dry" threads.

5-90
 
5-90 said:
I find that holding the joint together with a large pair of pliers will put enough friction on the ball stud (that's what sticks out) to hold it in place while you put the nut on.

Again - this is important. MAKE SURE YOU WIPE ANY NEVER-SEEZ OFF THE THREADS! Due to the lower friction offered, you will SERIOUSLY overtorque the nuts if you have enough on there to be a problem, so be careful!

Alternatively, if you get some on the threads and leave it there, reduce the "book torque" by HALF - because that's specified for "clean, dry" threads.

5-90
Click to expand...


"reduce the "book torque" by HALF - because that's specified for "clean, dry" threads"
I always wondered if this should be done while using loc-tight????
 
No. LocTite is formulated to NOT reduce friction - which means you can use full torque when using LocTite.

If you lubricate a "clean, dry" torque with engine oil, you'll want to reduce torque by 25-30%.

If you use Never-Seez, reduce by half.

Do bear in mind, however, that some torque values are given for lubricated threads in the manual. The harmonic damper bolt comes to mind - 80 pound-feet lubricated with engine oil - which would work out to somewhere around 120-125 pound-feet "clean, dry." I find it easier to just dunk the bolt when I have it out anyhow.

I use LocTite with full torque all the time, and have no trouble. I don't install bolts dry - but what I put on them (and how much I torque them afterwards) depends on what they hold, their operating environment, and how critical they are. I find that the simple rule of "Never install a bolt dry" saves me a lot of work later - but it does call for some changes in how you assemble things...

5-90
 
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