4.0 Won't Start

I drove Jeep in garage and removed head to plane as it was warped .015. Put it back together and now won't start. What do I need to do?
I checked fire and it has spark.
I never changed timing. I unhooked CPS and I loose spark so that looks good. I changed plugs and ohmed out wires and they are good. I put new orings on injectors and took plugs out and squirted a little oil in cylinder and checked compression and it is okay. When cranking over it smelled of gas so think injectors are working. I put new coil and Module on and new distributor cap and changed the computer under dash with known working one and still only cranks over but won't start. The fuel pump is making noise when turn key on and I have pressure at test port on fuel rail. I am puzzled with what to do next. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

Where you at in Nebraska? Im in Kearney.

I would double check your all your grounds including around the ignition module you just replaced, also check the harness near the computer you replaced. You may have disturbed something near there.

Those were the two infamous places that took us about 3 years to find...

Also the ground strap from the head to the firewall, and the battery ground to the block, think there is three green wires there also. Make sure all the connections are clean.

Hope this helps.

Cory

If it is an early model RENIX I would suggest swapping the 1st & 2nd relays that are mounted on the passenger fenderwell. The 2nd relay from the front is the B+ latch relay. Hope this helps......

The grounds are good and the strap to head is good. I will try the relays Thank you.

Just swapped the relays out and still no start just turn over.

is there gas in it

YES that was one of the first things I looked at. LOL

Its possible that you don't have enough pressure in your fuel system to open the injectors. When you replaced the orings on the injectors did you also do that with the regulator?

Are you plug wires and injector wires in the right place?

Is the pickup wire to the distributor connected?

Im gonna say you disturbed something near the computer. Try my wiggling that harness by the computer while cranking.

Cory

If the distributor is sparking, the fuel injectors are cycling and there is fuel pressure on the rail, something is gonna pop. Check the spark at a plug, leave the plug connected and ground it good, look at the spark. You may want to widen the gap to sixty thousandths or so for a test. Check the plugs for an oil coating. A very weak spark, will cause it to start hard. Sometimes checking the spark at the coil wire, doesn't tell you much. Grounding a plug with a wide gap, will tell you more.
If the IAC is stuck shut, it will start hard. If the MAP is disconnected it will start hard. If the distributor has been removed and installed wrong it will start hard and maybe/maybe not pop on the wrong stroke or not at all. If the distributor has been installed wrong and the battery dsiconnected the cam position sensor index (memory) may not be there.
Make sure the rotor is turning, while the motor is cranking and the valves are going up and down. A compression test probably wouldn't be a bad idea, if the electronics check out. If you left coolant/oil in the cylinders, it will coat the plugs and kill your spark.
If your spark is good, you may want to try a squirt of starting fluid. Carefull with the starting fluid, too much can cause an exposion, that will damage motor parts or you.
I always turn a motor over a few times by hand, before even trying to start it, watch the rotor, look at the rockers, check TDC 1. Double check all your connectors, check for bent pins or pins that have backed out of the connector. Make sure the red wire goes to the + on the battery, not as dumb as it sounds, I saw one last week hooked up bassackwords.