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Overlow, surge, catch tanks, turtles

RichP

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Effort, Pa
I'm posting this as an alternative to the plastic tanks on the closed cooling systems, this is the best selection I've come across, hence the 5 words in the subject line to make a search easier. A bit pricey but a heck of a lot stronger than the plastic ones and they use normal radiator caps too... just stumbled across it while looking for pre-oilers.

http://www.streetortrack.com/canton-tanks.asp
 
Those look nice. I am sick of the crappy plastic. I just had the tube snap on one about 2 weeks ago. I was trying to stop a very slow leak from the bottom connection and the top/side nipple broke off. Got one from Napa. Hose on the bottom is new. Can't seem to get the hose to go onto the nipple any further. Still leaks.:gonnablow May take it back apart and use Indian Head.
 
Re: Overflow, surge, catch tanks, turtles

Those are nice. Very nice! like $200+ nice :shocked: Seems like another good reason to invest in a TIG setup (yeah, the wife's gonna buy that one).

Oh, yeah! Need to get one for the washer fluid reservoir. No, I'm serious. I'd love to have the engine compartment full of shiny billet and welded aluminum overflows, breathers and reservoirs. [voice=homer_simpson]Oooo...shiny...[/voice]
 
I bought an aluminum recovery tank on ebay for 11.00 and some change. has 2 inlets and a radiator cap. pulled the old bracket and bottle, put 2 sheet metal screws to mount it and love it.
 
RichP said:
I'm posting this as an alternative to the plastic tanks on the closed cooling systems, this is the best selection I've come across, hence the 5 words in the subject line to make a search easier. A bit pricey but a heck of a lot stronger than the plastic ones and they use normal radiator caps too... just stumbled across it while looking for pre-oilers.

http://www.streetortrack.com/canton-tanks.asp
Considering that the Moroso tank I've been advocating for at least five years costs about half the prices of this Mustang stuff. I'm inclined to ask "Where ya been hiding, Rich?"

mor-63656_m.jpg


http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=115+304573&D=304573
 
Eagle said:
Considering that the Moroso tank I've been advocating for at least five years costs about half the prices of this Mustang stuff. I'm inclined to ask "Where ya been hiding, Rich?"

mor-63656_m.jpg


http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=115+304573&D=304573

I know thats the one you got from summit, some reason I thought it was tall and skinny instead of short/fat, I'm hoping that others will post some links of other solutions like part numbers and I seem to remember you had to do some 'modifications' to get it to work.
 
No mods, just couldn't find the 90-degree elbow fitting I needed for the small outlet (upper left in the photo, about the 10:30 position on the tank) at Home Depot so I had to go to a real plumbing supply house. There is also a larger outlet centered on the bottom, exactly where it's supposed to be.

I just removed the stock tray, bolted a piece of light-gauge slotted angle steel to the pinch weld seam on the firewall, and bolted the tank to the angle. The hardest part of the whole deal was finding an overflow bottle to fit the left inner fender with the stock air box in place. The third one I bought finally worked.
 
I'm reviving this from the dead. I was looking into having a friend who's a very good welder make me one of these that fit's and is specifically made to replace our cherokee on.

What does everyone think of that? Anyone else interested in a plug n' play reservoir? I could probably facilitate a group buy for anyone else interested.
 
I'm reviving this from the dead. I was looking into having a friend who's a very good welder make me one of these that fit's and is specifically made to replace our cherokee on.

What does everyone think of that? Anyone else interested in a plug n' play reservoir? I could probably facilitate a group buy for anyone else interested.

I think another thread is also proposing this. I've always bought the cheapo Chinese bottles and used a genuine cap as the Chinese caps are crap.

I would be interested in a metal tank, but I'm getting close to converting to an open system.
 
I know that there are those folks that say a properly maintained "closed" system works great, the problem is that the replacement parts to properly maintain it don't work so well. So, I'm a big proponent (that means I like it) of the the open system conversion. I did it. Cost me 2 bills.

The heater control valve was the biggest issue. Hated it, it leaked after 10K miles, constricted flow, etc, etc. So, I ran the hoses straight thru. However, I still had an issue with overheating, I changed out the fan clutch.

Now I never run over 210 unless it's 110 outside, uphill going 10 mph, and my manually controlled e-fan takes care of that even on the hottest day under the worst load conditions.

Go OPEN.
 
Yeah I am big on changing over to an open cooling too, its one of the first things I do when I pick up a new rig is go to all 95 cooling system. The only difference I have here though is that I run w/o a heater control valve.

Now prelube I have never even considered has anyone done it? I have seen three threads pop up when I search it...I am gonna look into this some more. I am used to this with the cats on our ship and blow-downs but I just thought that was for big engines.
 
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My 92 took a dump, blew the bottle up so much the hood has a gap now when I close it. So now I'm yanking the engine as I found oil in the air cleaner so it's time for a rebuild anyway and it's just a 102 miles short of 214,000 miles. I pulled the valve cover and even though it got super hot a couple times, once when the thermostat croaked, once when the center freeze plug blew out (rusted) and then twice lately for unknown reasons and not a bit of sludge in the engine. So time to rebuild and do something to fix the overheating issues that this thing seems to have. From what I have seen the route to go is with stuff from a 95, what about fan wise? Heck, even a larger radiator seems like it may help, as well as a larger resivior. I'm open to ideas on this.
Thanks,
John
 
Yeah I am big on changing over to an open cooling too, its one of the first things I do when I pick up a new rig is go to all 95 cooling system. The only difference I have here though is that I run w/o a heater control valve.

Now prelube I have never even considered has anyone done it? I have seen three threads pop up when I search it...I am gonna look into this some more. I am used to this with the cats on our ship and blow-downs but I just thought that was for big engines.

Many of the exotic cars come with pre-lubers, Lambo is one I know of as is the McClaren, I've heard them installed on other exotics but don't remember which others off hand. It's actually tied into the ignition, turn the key and the starter does not engage till the oil pressure is up.
 
My 92 took a dump, blew the bottle up so much the hood has a gap now when I close it. So now I'm yanking the engine as I found oil in the air cleaner so it's time for a rebuild anyway and it's just a 102 miles short of 214,000 miles. I pulled the valve cover and even though it got super hot a couple times, once when the thermostat croaked, once when the center freeze plug blew out (rusted) and then twice lately for unknown reasons and not a bit of sludge in the engine. So time to rebuild and do something to fix the overheating issues that this thing seems to have. From what I have seen the route to go is with stuff from a 95, what about fan wise? Heck, even a larger radiator seems like it may help, as well as a larger resivior. I'm open to ideas on this.
Thanks,
John

You sound like you know what you are doing, but did you check the compression and CCV system before condeming that engine?

Anyway, on my 1990 I am still running the closed system but have added the ZJ HD fan clutch with the stock fan, and couldn't be happier.

I will be going to the open system eventually, but only when my current parts take a dump. I will keep the ZJ fan clutch in the new system.
 
My 92 took a dump, blew the bottle up so much the hood has a gap now when I close it. So now I'm yanking the engine as I found oil in the air cleaner so it's time for a rebuild anyway and it's just a 102 miles short of 214,000 miles. I pulled the valve cover and even though it got super hot a couple times, once when the thermostat croaked, once when the center freeze plug blew out (rusted) and then twice lately for unknown reasons and not a bit of sludge in the engine. So time to rebuild and do something to fix the overheating issues that this thing seems to have. From what I have seen the route to go is with stuff from a 95, what about fan wise? Heck, even a larger radiator seems like it may help, as well as a larger resivior. I'm open to ideas on this.
Thanks,
John
Ya man, you should check those hoses coming off the top of the valve cover gasket. A clogged rear is notorious for causing blow-back thru the front and onto the air filter. You may not need to go thru all that trouble.
 
I swapped in a 96 Dodge Intrepid tank and the closed system works great. Literally took me 10 minutes. It has an actual metal radiator cap on it...problem solved for $11 ($4 for the tank, $7 for a brand new cap). But if you really want to spend $200 on conversion, or overpay for a metal tank...have at it!
 
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