Sorry for the 2nd message, but your questions brought back some issues I used to have, and require more thought...
Did you have your 132a conversion done by a "reputable" shop? On my 1991, I had the blessing of having an HVAC specialist helping me, and while we worked, he explained some issues with conversion jobs.
1. The system has to be fully evacuated, if ANY of the lines are "opened", no matter for how long- moisture is the enemy, and a tiny pinhole will kill your system- which is why we installed a new condensor. The entire system needs to be "swept" with a vacuum pump, for at least an hour after any repair to lines is done. ANY leaks must be repaired before servicing with R-132a.
2. The o-rings that seal connections are a different type of rubber, and they are NOT compatible. I've heard of some "good luck" stories of folks getting away with using the butyl o-rings that were originally installed, but I took no chances- I spent the $12 for a whole new set of viton o-rings, and got the experience of changing them ALL out. Money well spent. All are easily reachable, and you'll gain tons of experience for troubleshooting in the future. I was told that a more reputable shop would have given you back the old Butyl o-rings in a little baggie, with an explaination. Any missing chips or chunks out of an o-ring would be explained in #3.
3. There's an evaporator valve in-line with the evaporator, which is against the firewall, inline with the high-pressure line going into the cabin. It's just a little spring and ball valve, but it's what does the cooling magic between liquid and gaseous freon, of ANY kind. If the conversion wasn't done right, or your system is older, then there's TONS of rubber and oily junk that can jam this little valve. I took mine apart, and cleaned it all out with solvent, and dried it with compressed air. My advisor was amazed at the crap that came out of this, and blamed all my previous issues with this one valve.
4. Differing opinions on this subject- R132a WITH sealant. Some have said that it causes compressor overloading, but that would be with a leaky compressor- I used it, and it ensured that all the threaded connections were complete, and not leakers. My HVAC buddy didn't have an opinion on a "good" system, but expressed concerns about a system that was living on the fringe- any bad gaskets in the compressor would draw the sealant, and kill the compressor in short time. If you're sure everything else is sealed properly, and vaccuumed well, then a with-charge sealant is not a bad choice for an older system.
5. Teflon Tape. Some love it, others hate it, but I had GREAT success in using it on EVERY threaded line I disconnected and re-connected. We used an electronic "sniffing" device, and every joint that I used one wrap of teflon on was sealed nice and tight. The majority of fittings are aluminum, so there's lots of places where wear will kill your seal on fittings, so tape isn't such a bad idea.
Good luck, and let us know how you made out. I used to be terrified of anything with freon in it, but it really isn't that hard, with the right equipment. Now I know how to use the gauge that comes with the freon recharge kits, and know how to understand what the readings mean.