Best big rear leaves.....

Well my Rusty's extreme...mil wrap springs are starting to sag like a Granny's tits.....what I need is something that will let me still fit my 38's and last. I got a couple years out of my rears now...6.5" with a 1" block. Later.

Check out Bigoffroad or Alcan leaves.

or dodge pickup leaves, less likely to sag with the addition of a block, tho u might need to order lifted ones.

some one got to try dakota 4x leaves. Look like stock leaves with a factory add a leaf. If 2wd ones give 4-4.5" what will 4x ones give? Backache?

BOR has an 8 that rides i believe close to 10 empty pluss what u want for a shackle so prob be arould 11.5 little circus waggone to me though. 38s at 8n so go 6in BOR with shakle i like mine i got the 4 thoguth

WIll

Chark said:

Well my Rusty's extreme...mil wrap springs are starting to sag like a Granny's tits.....what I need is something that will let me still fit my 38's and last. I got a couple years out of my rears now...6.5" with a 1" block. Later.

Click to expand...

Just keep what you have and add another leaf. The leaf can be from anything, just pick (or cut) a length that splits the distance between two other leaves. No need to start over again, or spend a bunch of money.

When we bend our springs backwards as much as we do, and flex them as much as we do, we are at risk of them sagging after awhile. Adding another leaf can put them right back to what they were in the beginning.

My old leaf pack was some of the original Tomken leaves from the first lift, all four of the stock leaves, plus a YJ leaf or two. I added leaves I think three times over 8 years, and the springs always worked like a champ. I had a problem with it sagging on the right side, so I added another leaf to that side only......twice. I ended up with 8 leaves on the left side and 10 leaves on the right side, but the lift was even and the ride and flex were balanced. I like using factory leaves rather than aftermarket leaves because most of the time they are a better quality steel.

Leaf springs aren't rocket science, play around with them a little. You have a mil wrap second leaf, so you have a good foundation. Stick with the pads on the ends of each leaf, as friction can be bad for leaf springs causing a stiffer ride. Better to have another leaf to give it strength with little friction than less leaves with a lot of friction. While you have the springs apart, clean them up and repaint them. You can also add a couple of leaves and then use full length liners rather than just the pads on the ends, which works very well to reduce friction. You can also add a pad to the middle of the leaf, and then the end pads, which keeps the springs seperated and reduces friction. You can get good weight carrying capacity, lots of flex, and a great ride out of a thick leaf pack if you take steps to reduce the friction.

More than you asked, but..........

Thanks, Goatman...another leaf and some fresh bushings is likely the hot set-up.

Chark,

Is the sag caused by the springs S'ing around the perxch?

If so, find a 3/4 ton Chevy pack and pull the overload out. I think it's about 1" thick and around 20" long. I cut mine down to about 14" to give the spring more surface area to sit on and take away the S.

I have to give Props to Steve Stiller for this idea. I stole it from him at Winterfest a couple years back. Thanks Steve!


Flowers

Re: Re: Best big rear leaves.....

Goatman said:

Just keep what you have and add another leaf. The leaf can be from anything, just pick (or cut) a length that splits the distance between two other leaves. No need to start over again, or spend a bunch of money.

When we bend our springs backwards as much as we do, and flex them as much as we do, we are at risk of them sagging after awhile. Adding another leaf can put them right back to what they were in the beginning.

My old leaf pack was some of the original Tomken leaves from the first lift, all four of the stock leaves, plus a YJ leaf or two. I added leaves I think three times over 8 years, and the springs always worked like a champ. I had a problem with it sagging on the right side, so I added another leaf to that side only......twice. I ended up with 8 leaves on the left side and 10 leaves on the right side, but the lift was even and the ride and flex were balanced. I like using factory leaves rather than aftermarket leaves because most of the time they are a better quality steel.

Leaf springs aren't rocket science, play around with them a little. You have a mil wrap second leaf, so you have a good foundation. Stick with the pads on the ends of each leaf, as friction can be bad for leaf springs causing a stiffer ride. Better to have another leaf to give it strength with little friction than less leaves with a lot of friction. While you have the springs apart, clean them up and repaint them. You can also add a couple of leaves and then use full length liners rather than just the pads on the ends, which works very well to reduce friction. You can also add a pad to the middle of the leaf, and then the end pads, which keeps the springs seperated and reduces friction. You can get good weight carrying capacity, lots of flex, and a great ride out of a thick leaf pack if you take steps to reduce the friction.

More than you asked, but..........

Click to expand...

I swear this guys a walking talking library...

I've done exactly as Goatman has, even started with the same foundation, a Tomken 4" pack. Mine has thin Dodge and Chevy leaves thrown in, along with some of the original Tomken stuff. I have 7 leaves per side, a 1" block, and custom rear shackle mounts. I net about 6.5 inches of lift.

If you must have new springs, I feel the best on the market are Nationals. 10 or 11 thin leaves, very soft ride, but excellent load carrying capability. They are not cheap, however.

CRASH

I just want to reply...Flowers, no "S" in this pack....my 1st set of Rusty's springs started to do that and I took a stock XJ main and cut the bushing eyes off and used it as my 2nd. leaf, Woody now wheels those springs. I've been happy with these "STS" springs, but think the cont. flexing starts to sack em' put. Crash...does National only sell direct or what's the deal? I haven't fabbed anything new lately and was kickin' around the idea of coils and links. The coils would use a jack bolt to add or substract preload.

You can get a 6 inch National pack form RE, or buy them direct with any amount of lift and spring rate you want. They'll even design a spring pack around a specific rear weight that you give them.

I've NEVER heard of a NAtional pack sagging over time, only a tiny bit during break in.

CRASH