• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

XJ chasis strength.....

dizzymac

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Hampshire
Fear not my friends about unibody being a wimpy design. I am in the process of removing/replacing (as many of you are too) my floor pans....they are held in by no less than a gizillion( at least is seems like that many) spot welds and seam sealer, more like Gorilla cement.
I have found a whole new respect for our beloved XJ's, they are strong and well built as many of you will find out.
I also now hate Torx head bolts,screws and anything else associated with the name Torx. I lost count of the heads that have stripped out or broke...lol
 
agree 100%....those rear seat torx are miserable - i started to try to turn them with vise grips - got tired and they still sit there.

did you have a gaping hole over your muffler as well?

ace hardward has 2' square 22ga steel.
 
Have gaping holes everywhere. I'm still waiting on a response on the floor pans, otherwise I'm going to use 18ga. I have had 22 ga from JCWhitney , but its hard to weld, blows through too easy.
 
these are OK but they are not really Full pans, Twisted Steel has two full pans(front&rear), but I'm still waiting for them to get back to me,$125 S&H per panel,looking to see if I can p/u locally.
 
Most unibodies are designed to bend and flex, to absorb the stress. So to some that are accostumed to stiff frame bodies, they get the impression its weak. Nope, its getting the job done by avoiding cracking and deforming with the give of the bending and flexing, and its a lot lighter and cheaper to build. A simple frame starts to bend and flex it will crack or deform, so they have make it heavy and strong. A unibody can bend and flex, so it doesn't have to be real heavy to avoid the cracking and deforming.

You can make unibodies very ridigit, but thats either takes more metal and weight OR more time designing it and complexity building it. Which more and more desginers are doing today. And many Unibodies have excellent and ridigit chassis that are great. Which most people prefer, its not re-assuring to have the car bending and flexing, even if you know its suppossed to do that.

I tend to "think" the XJ went with the heavier design, the frame rails run the full length of the body, most unibodies don't do that. My '69 Charger doesn't have full length frame rails. As well, several of the crossmembers and the rails themselves are pretty thick steel.

My Neon R/T on the other hand, is pretty thin metal, but its got fairly complex shapes to the metal and connection points and frames and crossmembers are pretty intricate and complex, there is even a heavy steel tube welded across the center under the rear seat tieing everything together almost like roll cages do sometimes. Say what you want about Neons, but they do tear up the auto-cross circuit in the light-weight class, because of the ridigit chassis that gives such great handling and raw cornering with some mods. There only problem is they occassionally flip over in atuo-cross, because if they get into a heavy lateral motion, like a slide, and then suspension on the outside digs in and bottoms out, the chassis is so ridigit it doesn't give and flex, it will flip right over.
 
You are right, that seam seeler is no joke. I started lighting it on fire and then using a scraper and air chisel. I just finished my floor and am puttign the interior back in. Good luck.

K
 
Yea, I had dreams of of removing all the seam sealer and checking for rust in those areas. I've pretty much decided its not worth the effort, there is no sign of rust under most of the seam sealer and the few spots I have pulled it up, it was perfect underneath.

So I think I'm going to leave the seam sealer alone in the areas that have no sign of rust. I don't want to add another 100 hours of labor on to this project.

Oh, and I tried softening it with a propane torch, like you said, it catches fire instead and the fumes smell bad, like the fumes from burning plastic that is suppossed to be toxic. All the more reason to leave good looking seam sealer alone.
 
I set up a fan when I was working. My rust was very bad especially under the rear seat, the gas tank filler, and the driverside toe board. I found the air chisel worked very well but if you got overzealous you could wind up making a mess.

K
 
My pan(s) are coming out in pieces...slowly...very slowly...lol. MOPAR has a bulletin out about using a new seam/cement sealer..supposed to be better than the original stuff...I don't see how.
Talked to Twisted Steel this AM, he is going to see if he can get his supplier to ship both pans in one crate save $125, the only other way is to cut the pans up in four pieces and ship UPS and as he said this kind of defeats the purpose of putting in new pans, I agree, thats a lot of welding to get them back together.
"Frame rails" look good so far, gonna drop gas tank and start sand blasting rails today.
 
Back
Top